Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

It's ok. Yellow needs a good basecoat.

QFT Leohart, you either need to bring the black up from a grey to light grey to yellow or get yourself some foundation Iyandan darksun. That should help the bleeding effect from the basecoat.

Ya my usual method for yellow over black is deneb stone, 50:50 deneb stone white, white, sunburst yellow, gryphone sepia, drybrush sunburst.

I think I'll just do future yellow knights with a white base coat to save myself some time. It is kinda sad screwing up yellow when my Marine army is imperial fists.



In other news when I get back to painting my Imperial Fists should I do it in this thread or start a new one?


Automatically Appended Next Post:
I also have an army list for the army posted here http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/430391.page

I'd appreciate any C&C there.

If you want to go for yellow do a coat of Iyanden Darksun over the black undercoat and then wash with Sepia and then mix some yellow in to the Iyanden Darksun to build up the highlights water down you paints (mix) though while you do this.

edit: didn't see the second page, just ignore me and take Lennysmash's advice lol

Just as a side-note about lining the shields-

You can get a micro-pen and just draw the outline in, it works really well, and it's a helluva lot faster than using paint or ink.

But whatever works!

Yup, the only problem with micro-pen is the limited number of available colors.

leohart wrote:Yup, the only problem with micro-pen is the limited number of available colors.

True, but he's just lining black.

To echo everyone else, Iyanden Darksun is a godsend for all Imperial Fists/Bad Moonz/Iyanden players.

So get yourself some, even if it's only for one guy.

Or wait 1 month and get the new paint. :p

For the lady of the Lakers!

I didn't intentionally make the model in Lakers colors. It is just difficult to have a large number of differently painted knights that don't end up in some sport team's color.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
It took me a whle but I got the yellow correct after a while. Currently I'm working on a set of movement trays for the army. I'll add some pictures of that later.

Looking very awesome. Is that Mondian Blue?

It is midnight blue with a hormagaunt highlight, if you are talking about the purple that is.

Here is the next one. I like how the blue turned out but the green is kinda flat.

Is it me or the horse looks a bit shiny? You can line highlight the green with a lighter green. Looking awesome as always.

The horse is a little shiny in that picture. I'll take a look at it when I get home and see if that is just a product of the picture or something else. The sealer that I use makes the model a little shiny, so that + lighting could be causing the glowing horse.

I think once I finish the lance I'll go back and do another layer over all the flat looking colors to see if I can brighten them up.

If it is the final coat, try Testor Dull Coat instead. It makes things matte.

I've had that suggested before but I kind of like the overall shininess. The horse itself is the one part that shouldn't be shining.

Also, I do like your basing quite a bit. I never get around to doing my bases. :(

How did you get those colors?

leohart wrote:Also, I do like your basing quite a bit. I never get around to doing my bases. :(

How did you get those colors?

It is actually ridiculously easy. I just prime black and put a heavy drybrush of Khemri brown over the whole thing.

I've been working away at the models and have been neglecting to post up the new photos so prepare for massive photo dump of doom.

Here is a model that I had some trouble with the shield bubbling up. I've fixed it for the most part but the damage is still slightly noticeable.



Here is another knight I've title "The Lord of Green Bay"



This is the Unit Champion. I tried out a new method of doing the white on the model, tell me what you think.



Here is the musician of the group. I wanted to go with an all helmeted look for the KotR units so a horn would not of worked, therefore the bird is his instrument.




Here is a shot of the whole group




The whole army is resting on magnets so that I can just lift the entire unit out of their case and place it directly on the table. I made the movement trays out of a roofing shingle + sprue around the edges.





Conclusion
PHEW that was a massive update. What does everyone think? I'm especially curious about how the group shot turned out, how the new method for the white looks and what everyone thinks of the movement trays.

Whats next?
From here I still have the standard bearer to do as well as the character that is going in the unit. I'll probably put off doing the character until I finish the next group of KotR so that I have a bit more experience under my belt before I tackle something more complicated/important.

You had me at "dump of doom"!

Looking super great. Great work and great details on those shields.

I also magnetize my base. I didn't use roof shingles but opted for sheet metal instead. How much do those roof shingles cost?

About 88 cents each. I think I know what material you are talking about, I use it for my M@As bases. I wanted something that was a little stiffer to support the weight of the Knight units and the shingle fit the bill.

I use the metal sheet to line the bottom of my gw moving trays. I would it be cheaper to get the shingles instead?

I don't know how much the GW movement tray was but I am certain my method is significantly cheaper.

All I did was line the models up where I wanted them on the tray and bracketed the models with leftover sprue that I had cut the extra bits off of. I superglued it down and once it was dry I pulled hte models off and based the tray the same way I do the rest of my army.

I did 3 trays at once and get the whole thing done in under an hour. I could probably do it in less now that I know What the heck I am doing.

Should I post a guide on how I magnetized the army?

Also what do you use for magnets?

I buy 100 pack round one from kjmagnetics.com for 14. Drill a little into the Calvary base and super glue it in. The magnets are short enough to fit.

The metal sheet runs me 11 for 1 feet by 2 feet. Looks likes shingles would be cheaper.

I use a roll of this stuff http://www.michaels.com/Magnetic-Tacky-Tape/gc2092,default,pd.html?cgid=products-generalcrafts-aleenes&start=3. It costs about $10-13 and lasts for a while. I stretch out the roll until there is no longer a curve in it then glue the model to the magnet and cut away the excess with a sprue cutter.

You magnets are probably cheaper but I think my method is a little lazier.

Yeah I had that exact same thing from Michaels but I found that they don't stick hard enough. But it's good to know we have options. :-)

Keep up the awesome work. Looking forward to more Brets.

They look great on that tray together!

I scratch built and painted a trebuchet on Sunday.





Only 2 more to go until I have all of the ones that I need.