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I really wouldn't recommend soldering metal models unless you have a good temperature controlled soldering station (I do) AND the exact numbers for the melting points/sublimation points for the alloy that the company uses (I don't. I could probably work it out with some help, but there's no guarantee that the alloy was identical from batch to batch - the percentages need to be IDENTICAL).

Mainly because they go from 'slightly melty' to 'molten puddle' in the blink of an eye and if you don't know what you are doing, you not only risk serious burns, but also losing the model and or making it worse.