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Because it's a north american product, I believe that most of the import fee should be refunded if you're in Canada (NAFTA). With a little research, that takes a few months.

My airbrushing skill is extremely rudimentary but I have a single action brush that I use mostly for basecoating vehicles. I think I'll grab this since it's dual action (and really inexpensive), that way once I get to the point I need dual action, I have it.

Nice link! I ordered one. Does anyone have a link for an adaptor from my Iwata hose to this badger airbrush? (judging by the picture they have different connectors...

So, the listed airbrush, what else do you actually need to start cracking on? A compressor? Special paints or pots or anything? If anyone has a link/guide to airbrushing set-ups and use in general, I would be very grateful.

Need the brush, compressor, hose, etc all of that stuff. Pipe thread tape is always good, although you won't be using crazy pressure, leaks are leaks.

Any acrylic paint should go through an airbrush, and you're likely to need to thin some 'airbrush ready' paints beyond how they come too. It's a pain, I think it's hard at least, but it's part of airbrushing.

Beyond that, links to guides would be useful for a lot of us here. I've mostly been getting on by trial and error myself

 I-bounty-hunt-the-elderly wrote:
So, the listed airbrush, what else do you actually need to start cracking on? A compressor? Special paints or pots or anything? If anyone has a link/guide to airbrushing set-ups and use in general, I would be very grateful.

go into the painting and modeling forum.

Scroll down - you will see AT LEAST three active threads on airbrushing.

If those don't help do a search, quesitons about airbrushes get asked every single week.


However, just as a note; this is NOT a good brush for a beginner (I have one). It is a very precise brush, and as finer needle size airbrushes are - its very picky about the paint you put through it.
This brush can be very frustrating to a new user who is not used to dealing with the ...particularities of airbrushing.

I would sincerly suggest getting a patriot 105 or other good quality general airbrush (iwata eclipse is a good one as well).

Again, there are several airbrush threads in the painting forum....

I picked this up a few months ago on amazon, it's a pretty good beginner setup. Compressor is very quiet, about as loud as a refrigerator and it includes the hoses, connectors, a regulator/moisture trap and a simple (but very usable) dual action airbrush. Not particularly powerful, it caps out around 45psi but I usually use it around 20psi. Definitely worth $80.

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Performance-Multi-purpose-Compressor-The/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1387176940&sr=8-1&keywords=AIRBRUSH+COMPRESSOR

Ugh, I had just bought a master air brush, and to be honest with you, the first spin I took it on was... less then great. There was practically no control for the spray, just push and play. I went ahead and purchased this as it seems to be a solid deal, I just hope there is more control.

EDIT: As an aside... can anyone help me with a proper mix of water to paint for a Citadel paint for best result? Is it a 2 - 1 or is there some secret?

I understand it may not be good for a beginner, but $60 for a $400 airbrush almost seems stupid to pass up on. I don't know how to use an airbrush yet either (despite having what appears to be a cheap Iwata knock-off I got for $50 on eBay years ago), but I would hate to fork out that kinda cash for it later when I do need one.

I probably won't get one anyway since I've spent waaaay too much on Christmas this year, but damn.

I picked on up too .. almost thought about getting a second just for the parts

 Matt1785 wrote:
EDIT: As an aside... can anyone help me with a proper mix of water to paint for a Citadel paint for best result? Is it a 2 - 1 or is there some secret?

The best result I've found for Citadel paints is to go to a craft store like Pat Catan's, Michael's, etc... Find Liquitex Airbrush Thinner, get a cup, another bottle, something to hold the paint in besides your airbrush cup (unless you have siphon feed). Mix the two of them at a 1:1 ratio, put a little into the cup and test it on some cardboard, paper, w/e. If you're satisfied, take it to the model. I've done this with a few different colors, and have gotten good results with this.

 Alfndrate wrote:

 Matt1785 wrote:
EDIT: As an aside... can anyone help me with a proper mix of water to paint for a Citadel paint for best result? Is it a 2 - 1 or is there some secret?

The best result I've found for Citadel paints is to go to a craft store like Pat Catan's, Michael's, etc... Find Liquitex Airbrush Thinner, get a cup, another bottle, something to hold the paint in besides your airbrush cup (unless you have siphon feed). Mix the two of them at a 1:1 ratio, put a little into the cup and test it on some cardboard, paper, w/e. If you're satisfied, take it to the model. I've done this with a few different colors, and have gotten good results with this.

Ahh... excellent bit there. Thanks a lot, I'll head to the store on the way home from work this afternoon, that's great. Yeah, I mixed it in the cup on my airbrush but I think that's a bad idea because then the needle kept clogging with the bits that weren't mixed properly, good call. Live and learn.

As to the brush, it does seem like a VERY crazy deal, but I think the air brush also looks pretty cool. Maybe I'll give my master to someone at the store that is in need.

 Matt1785 wrote:

 Alfndrate wrote:

 Matt1785 wrote:
EDIT: As an aside... can anyone help me with a proper mix of water to paint for a Citadel paint for best result? Is it a 2 - 1 or is there some secret?

The best result I've found for Citadel paints is to go to a craft store like Pat Catan's, Michael's, etc... Find Liquitex Airbrush Thinner, get a cup, another bottle, something to hold the paint in besides your airbrush cup (unless you have siphon feed). Mix the two of them at a 1:1 ratio, put a little into the cup and test it on some cardboard, paper, w/e. If you're satisfied, take it to the model. I've done this with a few different colors, and have gotten good results with this.

Ahh... excellent bit there. Thanks a lot, I'll head to the store on the way home from work this afternoon, that's great. Yeah, I mixed it in the cup on my airbrush but I think that's a bad idea because then the needle kept clogging with the bits that weren't mixed properly, good call. Live and learn.

As to the brush, it does seem like a VERY crazy deal, but I think the air brush also looks pretty cool. Maybe I'll give my master to someone at the store that is in need.

I would hold on to your master, I've got 1 airbrush atm, and I find myself wasting paint and tint because I need to switch colors, a second airbrush that can do detail work, or could hold a second color could speed up my process a bit. And with the Sotar and the Master, you could do basecoating, and initial shading with the Master and then detail with the Sotar. A couple of quick connects would help in that regard.

 Matt1785 wrote:
As an aside... can anyone help me with a proper mix of water to paint for a Citadel paint for best result? Is it a 2 - 1 or is there some secret?

Thin the paint until it has the consistency of 2% milk. What that means in visual terms: use your paint stir to drag up some of the thinned paint onto the inside wall of the container you are mixing it in; it is properly thinned when it quickly slides back down into the container but leaves a mostly opaque streak.

 Matt1785 wrote:
Maybe I'll give my master to someone at the store that is in need.

Do NOT give away your current airbrush unless you want to replace with something besides the 20/20.

 aliusexalio wrote:
Nice link! I ordered one. Does anyone have a link for an adaptor from my Iwata hose to this badger airbrush? (judging by the picture they have different connectors...

This is my question. I'm very tempted to order it, but I have a Grex with a quick disconnect fitting onto the hose, and would want to be able to use the same hose...


Automatically Appended Next Post:
But I think I found the answer to your question, aliusexalio:

http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Company-Iwata-Adaptor/dp/B004RM2DIO/ref=pd_sim_ac_4

By the by, there is a review here if you are interested.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Manchu wrote:
Do NOT give away your current airbrush unless you want to replace with something besides the 20/20.

And even if, I say. I had the weld break on my Renegade Spirit, and while Badger were very good about fixing it for the prices of postage; I was mid project and my badger 150 was very good to have on hand so I could keep working.

I think I found the answer to my own question, too:

http://www.amazon.com/Grex-AD19-Universal-Connect-Airbrush/dp/B003VIVGYC#

...and I've just ordered the airbrush and that quick disconnect, along with a holder for the 2 airbrushes. Despite my not painting much recently, absolutely everything I have done has been airbrushed. It's just insane how much faster it is. Looking forward to now having the Grex and this Badger and being able to switch between the two!

I ordered one of the airbrushes, couldn't pass on a deal like that. I received it about a week ago, but since I don't have a compressor yet can't try it out. I have looked at the compressors on Amazon, and I want a small compressor with a tank, but since I live in an apartment I need it fairly quiet.

I just added an decibel meter to my phone and my central air is about 80 decibels, so if the compressors listed on Amazon are really about 59 decibels, that would work. Does anyone know for sure if those Master air compressors are that quiet or close to that level to work in an apartment?

It is worth noting that the original price for the Sotar was based on the demand of the artist who helped Badger develop it. The artist felt that a lower price point would give the impression of a poor quality brush compared to other high end brands at the time. Ken said this in an interview here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVGCHlutCS4

So I very much doubt that it's some crazy price, rather it's what the brush costs with a reasonable discount given to Amazon without taking a loss. Perceived value may play to the every day airbrush artist, but to gamers with plastic crack addictions, every penny counts.

 DarkKnights44 wrote:
I just added an decibel meter to my phone and my central air is about 80 decibels, so if the compressors listed on Amazon are really about 59 decibels, that would work. Does anyone know for sure if those Master air compressors are that quiet or close to that level to work in an apartment?

As I said, it's about as loud as a regular kitchen refrigerator when it turns on. A hair dryer makes more noise. I had a stronger hobby air compressor a few years ago that was quite a bit louder than a vacuum cleaner, and the ones at my work drown out the train as it goes by, but the master ones I linked earlier are super quiet.

Thanks Rhelyk, I'm going to have it in a cabinet I'm going to make into a spray booth, so I'm sure it will be quieter in there, and if I add some sound proofing, should be perfect then for an apartment.

the sotar is an illustrator's airbrush meant for very up close tiny detail.

The biggest difference between an iwata micron and a brush like this is how easy it is to coax out super super fine line details. For average humans this brush will give you finer and tighter details at a fraction of the cost of an iwata micron or Harder and steenbeck infinity. Some people swear that the badger outperforms both of those brushes at its low price point.

At 60 bucks how can you pass on it. Truthfully though you will need a compressor and paint thats at least another 150-200 on the low end but I really wouldn't recommend airbrushing to anyone who was on a budget. Its not really a necessary part of the hobby. If you buy inferior tools you will spend as much time fighting with your tools as you will enjoying your hobby. I guess it all comes down to how much your time is worth.

For thinning paint I saw a method that is simple but works well. Mix your paint with thinner and stir with an old paint brush. Continue to add thinner until you pull out the paint brush and paint drips off of the brush into the cup on its own. Your color will be pretty transparent at this dilution but its really good for blending. When you use a small tipped airbrush like this, your ratio should be pretty watery already.

this website is a great reference and offers incredibly informative no nonsense advice for almost all questions airbrush:

http://www.airbrushguru.com/index.html

Just grabbed one. It came out to a little more for shipping and other charges, but still a great deal.

Busted! I slept on this too long and now Anazon's prices are more than $130. The best price I'm finding now is ~$80 via shady eBay retailers and the like.

I got one from amazon for 70-80 months ago it'll be back on a good sale eventually.

 tomjoad wrote:
Busted! I slept on this too long and now Anazon's prices are more than $130. The best price I'm finding now is ~$80 via shady eBay retailers and the like.

It's back down to $87 currently.

The Badger 105 is on sale for $60, and while it doesn't do the fine lines quite as well the Sotar will, it's also a pretty good airbrush. You can read a review here. You can convert it to a .3 needle for super fine work, but at that point you may as well just buy the Sotar to begin with unless you want two different heads and needle sets.

So would this be a good airbrush or would a Harder and Steenbeck Evolution silverline be better?

 conker249 wrote:
So would this be a good airbrush or would a Harder and Steenbeck Evolution silverline be better?

Les Bursley from Awesomepaintjob.com used the Evolution, and I spoke with him a few years back about it.

He said that while it's a nice brush, the needle is really too small for what we are doing, and it's more maintenance than it's worth.

I personally use a Paasche Talon, and of the 3 needle sizes I generally use the middle one, as the smallest clogs way too easily.