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GW's thick plastic glue is useless, their thin plastic glue is the same as the stuff you can get at your local model shop or Wal*Mart next to the models (only the Testors stuff will be cheaper).

Honestly I prefer plastic glue to super glue because I can't stand the fumes of super glue. Plus I can't accidentally glue myself to the model if the glue pushes out of the joint.

EDIT: To add to this, if you get super glue, don't get the cheap stuff. It has a greater tendency to break again, especially if you use any sort of accelerant. I've used Gorilla Glue Super Glue and Zip Kick before together and had little to no issues. Do the same with Krazy Glue and things tend to fall off if you as much as bump the table the models are on.

Meh. You can buy something like this, but I don't know if it's worth the money, and you can also buy other painting guides, but once again, their cost makes them somewhat dubious. Also, in the case of miniwargaming.com, they have some stuff that goes over some pretty advanced techniques, but they're not going to be useful until you're already pretty good, and already have the right tools (learning to do ghost tints, for example, requires you to have an airbrush, and to already be pretty good with it).

Were I you, I think what I'd do is to paint up a mini as best as you can, and then go to the painting and modelling showcase and ask for advice. If you make it clear that what you want is for people to show you what you're doing wrong to make you a better painter, I have no doubt that people will oblige. It will be easier for us, though, if we see what you can already do, rather than having to guess at your current skill level.

For painting guides I'd hit up Google first before buying anything. A lot of free tutorials out there. Youtube has a lot too (most of which involve airbrushes, but still handy stuff their for those who are willing to learn).

Just wanted to add that I agree with ScootyPuffJunior: Model Master Liquid Cement is the absolute best stuff I have ever used with plastic models.

Yes, it melts the plastic to form the bond. The "trick" is to put some glue on one part, put the parts together, then hold them with some pressure for about 30 seconds.

Yes, it takes slightly longer to assemble a model this way than when using a superglue. However, if you apply pressure for even 30 seconds while it "sets" then that bond will NOT come apart. Whereas super glue tends to get brittle and break over time. By the same token if you do NOT apply pressure then the bond won't be as good and will likely fail very quickly - which I believe is exactly what happened to you.




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I'm not sure the "how to paint citadel miniatures" is worth while at all. To get the same idea just pay $4 for a white dwarf and look at a Paint Splatter article. It's the exact same concept .. just different colors. The printed GW material is good for getting started but there are no "advanced" topics in it.

Basically what it's going to say is:

1. Prime - black for darker finish, white for a brighter finish
2. Base - Use a base color that corresponds to the primary colors in use on the model. For example, Averland Sunset if you are going to paint yellow. Stay away from Ceramite White. I've never seen anything turn out good that used that, Celestra Grey would be better.
3. Layer paint for main parts
4. Layer paint for details
5. Glaze - paint tends to "pool" in the center of the painted area.
6. Edge - use a lighter color than your primary to help pick out all the details. When getting started you could "dry brush" the model to quickly edge it; later on you'll find other techniques.
7. Wash/Shade. - Pretty much cover the model in this. The shade will gravitate to the indentations in the model helping to create shadows. The "standard" shade right now is Agrax Earthshade.

Glaze may or may not be necessary, depending upon effect. Edging can be done with the regular layer paint - whichever way you go it takes a little bit of practice. Washing is pretty much mandatory for a good look and is simple to apply.

If you want to get fancy, apply some of the technical paints like Blood for the Blood God. That one makes for highly realistic blood splatters. Tutorial here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TRBq7GVnJM&feature=youtu.be

Now the single most important tip that is generally left out of all of those books: CLEAN YOUR BRUSHES. Otherwise you'll be replacing them pretty much every time you go to paint something.

Also, your rulebook will have information about the basics of painting as well. It's in the hobby section in the back.

The above post also highlights another benefit of superglue - it breaks cleanly on the joints. If you knock something superglued off the table, it will disassemble, while if you knock something plastic glued, there's no weaknesses, so the model is much more likely to snap in the middle of a plastic piece, rather than on the joints. Most likely to snap on the thinnest, smallest parts that will be the most difficult to join back together.

Since I have had little to no experience in painting miniatures, I am going to assemble them and paint them to the best of my ability using YouTube etc. I will take pics of them see what I can do differently and if I have to, I will strip the paint and start over. Thanks so much for the advice guys, sorry for all the questions! I will get started assembling them and 'when' I get em' done I will post some pics hopefully xD Here is the color scheme I would like to do: