Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Thank everybody for all the replies! I am looking forward to trying out some of these techniques for sure!

As for removing citadel primer.. I would suggest Simple Green. You can buy it from Fred Meyer or Target.

It works pretty well. Get a nylon brush at it after it has soaked in the simple green for a while (couple days?). It won't come off completely though. There will inevitably be some primer left on there.

I would honestly suggest just painting over it though. As long as the primer isn't too thick. It will be much less of a head ache, take a lot less time and you will most likely not notice a difference. Stripping paint is a major pain.

 KingCracker wrote:
Also, i don't see how people using white primer are saying the deep parts on the model make paint brighter, that just confuses me. White shows the color easier than black, so if a recess had a dark color for shading how would it be brighter? It doesn't work that way in my experience at all.

I'm not exactly sure what you are saying? As someone who uses white primer most the time I would like to explain it but I'm not sure what you are saying.

If you prime white and apply a coat of reasonably thin paint, it acts a bit like a wash, where the paint settles more in to the recesses, effectively highlighting the model for you because the raised surfaces end up showing more white through. However there is a bit of an art to it, because you don't want the paint as thin as a wash.

That's basically the basis of my speed painting techniques. White prime and then layer a coat of paint to get the base colour, but apply it thinly so it gives you some natural highlights, then wash it to give you the shadows, that's how I paint my orks/cadians/lizardmen/zombies in ~20 minutes per model, they don't look like display pieces, but if I painted them like show pieces I'd never finish an army.

These aren't mine, but they are painted in a very similar fashion to how I work when I'm speed painting...
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/237797.page


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Rx8Speed wrote:
I too would like to see a video of priming white on an angle over black primer

Google "Zenithal highlighting". People usually do it with airbrushes rather than sprays as the airbrush offers more control to build up the highlights in spots you want to emphasize more instead of just letting the paint fall consistently over the model.

Ever since i bought my airbrush I have been doing the zenithal thing with my priming- all black everything, greay from a 45 degree angle, then hit the high points from directly above at 90 degrees with white. The effect is sometimes subtle but I think it ends up looking better overall.

Cambonimachine wrote:
Ever since i bought my airbrush I have been doing the zenithal thing with my priming- all black everything, greay from a 45 degree angle, then hit the high points from directly above at 90 degrees with white. The effect is sometimes subtle but I think it ends up looking better overall.

I'm too lazy, if I'm going to bother zenithal highlighting, I'll just do it with the colours I actually intend to use instead of doing it with the primer. Though with some colours a zenithal undercoat works better, like yellow, do a brown -> white zenithal undercoat and then spray yellow comes out quite nice.

See i basically only use my airbrush for priming and i prime en masse so its minimal effort to do it that way. Not nearly confident enough with the brush to use it to, ya know, actually paint anything

I use Duplicolor black sandable primer. Best primer in existence hands down.

skullthroneatendent wrote:
I always base black then drybrush in white as a pre highlighting process keeps my brights bright and my recesses dark

oh, that sounds like a good idea. i will give it a go!

 jreilly89 wrote:
I might try priming with gesso if anyone can convince me it really is the bomb.com

TL;DR army painter is the best and cheap white primers suck

Gesso is the bomb Although I prefer black gesso to white gesso.

P3 and Mr. Hobby make a very good white primer too. Personally, Mr. Hobby is my favorite rattle can primer.