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Made in gb
Dakka Veteran




Lincoln, UK

 Buttery Commissar wrote:
Biostrip is best used in 45-60min bursts, and then reapplied. I'd never leave it on anything other than metal for more than an hour.
I've successfully stripped forgeworld, Finecast and other resins, but I wasn't treating it like iso or long soaks, I followed the instructions...


The material was fine after the first hour... just phase 2 of the test that didn't work. Live and learn

As well as metals, I've found that HIPS plastic figures are OK after extended soaks in Biostrip. I've left plastics soaking overnight without problems (and perfect paint removal).
   
Made in us
Nasty Nob






OP is from USA. BioStrip isn't available here AFAIK.

Also, Necro.


My P&M blog: Cleatus, the Scratch-building Mekboy
Successful Swap Trades: 6 
   
Made in us
Growlin' Guntrukk Driver with Killacannon





LA's Totally Awesome ..available at dollar general, the dollar tree and other places like truevaule use at full str will not harm plastic or resins is cheap and 1/2 gallon will strip about 300 minis ..(just soak em over night and scrub them with a toothbrush repeat if necessary) may have some discoloration of plastic left from primers that have solvents in them ..rinse with plenty of water after

And make certain its the general purpose concentrate ..the other formulations do not work so well

http://www.lastotallyawesome.com/products/all-purpose/

'\' ~9000pts
'' ~1500
"" ~3000
"" ~2500
 
   
Made in us
Brigadier General






Chicago

I don't know how they are marketed in other countries, but in the USA, get yourself some "Solvex" Solvent resistant gloves. I use the green ones. They're only a few bucks, are quite thick (but not so thick you can't grab parts) and will last for quite long time. Your hands are worth the protection.

Latex, Nitrile and other gloves won't necessarily protect your hands and some of the solvents will easily dissolve natural rubbers like latex.

Chicago Skirmish Wargames club. Join us for some friendly, casual gaming in the Windy City.
http://chicagoskirmishwargames.com/blog/


My Project Log, mostly revolving around custom "Toybashed" terrain.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/651712.page

Visit the Chicago Valley Railroad!
https://chicagovalleyrailroad.blogspot.com 
   
Made in au
[MOD]
Making Stuff






Under the couch

 Soldier0Fortune wrote:

Simple Green ( The green version ) works alright but requires soaking of up to a week. Haven't been able to get my hands on the Concentrated version.

In Oz, Bunnings have a pack that has a diluted spray bottle and a 2L(IIRC) bottle of concentrate shrink-wrapped together. I put aside the spray for cleaning the house, and use the concentrate for minis.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/05/14 09:09:25


 
   
Made in bg
Storm Trooper with Maglight






Hardly a God. Maybe a small Diety.
Throw any chemistry to the bin and aim for Isopropyl Alcohol 99%. It strips any kind of paint within 1 hour.
   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka





West Michigan, deep in Whitebread, USA

See, I still have good luck with Simple Green, even if they have changed the formula. Although I buy the big bottle of concentrated version and use it straight out of the bottle, so that might be why. I usually let it sit for two-three days, and then the paint is usually all wrinkled and practically falls off with a stiff-bristled brush (I actually use nylon bore brushes for cleaning guns).



"By this point I'm convinced 100% that every single race in the 40k universe have somehow tapped into the ork ability to just have their tech work because they think it should."  
   
 
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