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I’m too young to have played 2nd Ed (I came in with 4th) but I do remember really enjoying looking through my dad’s books when I was young, and man do these give me huge nostalgia. Something really cool and satisfying about the simpler old school models. Nice!
The old school look just hits different - I love modern painting techniques, but there's something special about the original style. Royal pain in the ass though to get done, so I can understand why it fell out of favour. So ... many.... layers.
Properly back in the day, Blood Angels were Terracotta highlighted with Blood Angels Orange. Those are the colours in the paint set Arschbombe shows.
By the time that army shown in the WD pages by Skinflint Games was done, they were properly red - the base coat is a mix of Blood Angels Orange and Go Fasta Red.
Then the paints changed in 1994, to the ones in the hexagonal pots with the flip-tops - thats the range which Coat d'Arms matches, not the earlier 1980s/early '90s. Blood Red stayed much the same, but Terracotta and Blood Angels Orange disappeared to be replaced with Blood Angels Red, which was slightly more orange than Blood Red (probably equivalent to the Blood Angels Orange/Go Fasta Red mix used in WD 139).
Blazing Orange was roughly the same as Blood Angels Orange.
The Blood Angels Paint Set includes Blood Angel Orange, Red Wash and Fiery Orange for the red armour, plus Enchanted Blue and Golden Yellow for the Devastator and Assault helmets and Chaos Black for ... well everything else.
Modern Coat d'Arms equivalents would be Angel Red, Red Ink, Burnt Orange, Wizard Blue*, Golden Yellow and Black.
*not Coat d'Arms Enchanted Blue - confusingly, that appears to be their name for metallic blue.
In terms of modern Citadel colours, Terracotta is kind of like Tuskgor Fur, Blood Angels Orange is like Trollslayer Orange. Blood Red is like Evil Suns Scarlet and Blood Angels Orange is like Wild Rider Red. Those probably aren't exact matches, but if you were to use those I think you'd get the same sort of feel.
Posting in slight trepidation here, as although these initially looked OK to me, under the harsh cold light of the camera they look a bit crap. Therefore I post not to show off, but to ask for guidance - I struggle to focus close up, so are there any specialist glasses or magnifying devices that might help me out?
Also, very much struggling to keep a point on the detail brush - it's a W&N S7, so it's me not the brush. I've got some brush soap to clean it with, but it still doesn't hold a point - anyone got any ideas?
Planning to redo the banners after some practice doing freehand - I mean, I'd never actually practiced it so why I thought I'd be good at it is anyone's guess!
You're always going to struggle focusing on a group of miniatures using a modern camera. It will be confused and likely just focus on the middle most item. I tend to photo miniatures on their own to avoid this problem, but a few can be photographed with a bit of tinkering.
As for your paintbrush, I would leave the s7 in the box for a bit. You don't want to be dropping cash on those every few months. And if you're losing your point, then you're having issues. A good sable should last for ages. I'm talking 6 months to a year, and that's without brush soap, which can actually help ruin the brushes quicker if you're mashing the ferrule into the soap. Are you dipping the ferrule in the paint? That's normally the issue. Avoid using them for copious amounts of inks/washes too. Capillary action works both ways and inks will wick into the ferrule..but yeah put the pro brushes down. Without trying to sound harsh, it's like a learner driver trying to race an F1 car at this point. Get some decent synthetics or a reasonably priced set of cheaper sables. The gsw ones are good.
At this level of brush control, a W&N isn't going to be any better or worse than a synthetic or plain sable. I would concur to put away the expensive brushes for now; they really won't help and will quickly get expensive to be replacing regularly. If you're struggling to see, look into getting a magnifier of some kind - desk mounted or glasses, depending on personal preference. A good strong daylight balanced LED bulb helps too. If your hands are shaky, practice bracing your wrists together with both model and brush in hand, or use your table or chest to increase stability.
Despite the 'simplified' look of many retro models, I'd argue they're harder to paint well than many more modern schemes. The crisp, bold colours hide not a single sin nor wobbly stroke. There's really no shortcut for many hours of practice at the painting table.
Uncle Adam of Tabletop Minions has a lot of videos on getting set up for hobby success, maybe start with:
Personally I don't use magnifiers because I'm naturally near-sighted, but I would not trade in my daylight LED for anything. Just having a ton of light makes the whole process much more enjoyable (and less squinting!)
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2022/05/25 21:57:37