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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2010/07/07 02:42:12
Subject: Clear coat hazing?
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Fresh-Faced New User
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So I finally finished one of my 1k sons aspiring sorcs to where I liked the outcome, I tool him outside and shook the can of Krylon Matte finish clear coat for about a minute then put a very light coat on him. I waited 20 minutes then repeated with another coat, when I brought the model inside the clear coat had turned hazy, powderish colored on bits of him. I'm trying to salvage him so far another touching with Badab black wash is helping he doesn't look nearly as hazy.
So since the krylon matte finish almost made me have to strip and repaint the model, I would like to know if anyone else has had this happen with the matte finish clear, and what brands of clear coat/sealer you use for your miniatures?
I don't want to have this happen again, so any advice for a good seal/clear coat would be tremendously appreciated. Thanks Dakka!
[edited title]
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This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/07/07 02:49:06
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2010/07/07 03:18:21
Subject: Clear coat hazing?
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Regular Dakkanaut
Salem, Oregon USA
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The most consistent flat clear spray I've found is Testor's Dullcote. Often a different batch of other manufacturers' matte finishes will wind up semi-gloss or even full gloss. Never had that trouble with Dullcote. The big problem is it comes in such a small can, though that little can lasts a long time.
Most hobby shops stock it, and sometimes you can find it in Arts and Craft stores that carry plastic models.
Whenever you get a new clear coat, test it out on a model you are planning to repaint or the underside of a tank/transport. That way you don't have to rescue your fresh paint job.
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The pellet with the poison's in the vessel with the pestle.
The chalice from the palace has the brew that is true. |
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2010/07/07 05:40:08
Subject: Clear coat hazing?
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Dark Angels Librarian with Book of Secrets
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It can happen if you don't keep the paint well-shaken while painting, trying to put on one thick coat as opposed to two or three thin coats, and old cans of sealant, too.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2010/07/07 06:36:01
Subject: Re:Clear coat hazing?
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Last Remaining Whole C'Tan
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Dullcote is probably the only clear coat you should be using. However, the issue can occur with any clear spray in the following conditions:
1.) Too close to the mini
Remedy: Do not hold the can so close. It should be at least 12" away, and it should never stop moving while over the mini
2.) Too heavy and thick of a coating
Remedy: use multiple very thin coats instead of one thick coat. You can always put more clear coat on, but you can't take it off.
3.) Not enough shaking before & during the spray
Remedy: Shake for at least 2 minutes before spraying, and if it's a big job, a few times during.
4.) Too cold and/or humid when you're spraying them
Remedy: Spray your minis on a warm and dry day. Basements are you enemy in this.
In my experience, 4 is the most common cause of this. You can actually fix this up by respraying them again with the same paint after rectifying whatever the problem was from the list above. Alternately, there is a dullcote in a bottle that you brush on, which also will fix this. Of course, since different brands of paint sometimes interact poorly together, I'd recommend doing it on a test mini in an unobtrusive spot first.
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This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/07/07 06:38:42
lord_blackfang wrote:Respect to the guy who subscribed just to post a massive ASCII dong in the chat and immediately get banned.
Flinty wrote:The benefit of slate is that its.actually a.rock with rock like properties. The downside is that it's a rock |
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2010/07/07 13:28:10
Subject: Clear coat hazing?
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Fresh-Faced New User
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Well, the can was only purchased 2 months ago so it's relatively new, I was over a foot away from the mini and quick light coats like you do when you shoot detailing color with a HVLP gravity gun. (namely pearl and metalic coat highlights on small stenciled areas)
With Ouzes post it narrows it down to shaking or humidity. I shook the hell out of the can not for 2 minutes though. But I'm going to go with 4, because it was a muggy sumbish yesterday. go outside for 5 minutes your clothes get stuck to you and almost a damp feeling to the air.
I think I'll go to hobby lobby since they have 40% off one item coupons this week and snag some dull coat though.
Thanks for the advice and tips all, it's nice to have a good community of wargamers to turn to with issues.
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This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/07/07 13:29:17
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2010/07/07 14:23:49
Subject: Re:Clear coat hazing?
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Last Remaining Whole C'Tan
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I've had 4 happen before I turned to Dakka and realized it was my damp basement. Only way to discover it, I think. I certainly agree about the latter - Dakka has made me a billion times better in every category, from painting to playing.
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This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/07/07 14:33:00
lord_blackfang wrote:Respect to the guy who subscribed just to post a massive ASCII dong in the chat and immediately get banned.
Flinty wrote:The benefit of slate is that its.actually a.rock with rock like properties. The downside is that it's a rock |
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2010/07/07 15:33:34
Subject: Clear coat hazing?
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Impassive Inquisitorial Interrogator
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I've never had a problem with Krylon myself.
Shake it like there is no tomorrow, then shake it some more. I read a tip here somewhere that I always use on clear coats, not sure if it works or is just superstition, but it goes like this:
1. shake can for 3 minutes
2. put can in hot-warm water for 4 minutes or so.
3. shake can for 2 more minutes
4. spray
PITA, but no problems.
I always keep the nozzle 8-12 in away, no more no less, myself.
~3k points of Tau done like this with 0 problems.
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