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I recently bought a large sum of necron models second hand, and the shipping was horrendous to say the least, which was most aggravating because I spent about 50 bucks shipping to them... well anyway. Lots of models broke, like destroyer torsos breaking in half, arms snapping in two. That sorta stuff. I've been trying to use two part epoxy to make the repairs, but it's kinda annoying having to hold it there in the same exact position for ten minutes while it dries and there's still the risk that it won't hold.

Also, I need a way to get off dried super glue in some of the areas because the parts won't fit on correctly and it's harder to get a good bond on dried glue than on the plastic.

Thanks for any help!!!!

Freeze the models.

Superglue doesn't handle cold well.
Freezing makes it go even more brittle.
If they used an accelerant on it as well, the glue will pretty much flake off (as the quicker bond is even weaker).

Heard of this, but never tried it. Worth a shot; hell what could it hurt? I'd drop the fethers in simple green and take the paint off as well to remove as much of their poor handling as possible. Super glue will come off with simple green just takes a bit longer.

Repeated freeze-thaw cycles will make superglue flake more easily. It's the trapped water molecules inside the glue bond that do the damage.

Do not use two-part epoxy on anything to do with the assembly of miniatures anywhere, ever.

It's just ugly.

A dremel will be well worth your while. I rehab plastic models all the time and there's not a better tool for removing the scab layer of glue and getting down to a smooth, plastic surface. Just be careful you don't take too much!!!

Usually I try holding the parts together for 30 seconds or so and then laying the model in a position that lets the tackiness + gravity finish it. Might be tough for necrons though being as spindly as they are.

I've used epoxy putty before to hold things together, but it's a pretty specific case where it works well. It's tough to make it "blend" and look right, even with a crapton of sanding (Which, I understand, produces some not so healthy dust).

Personally I'd pin the snapped pieces together, if at all possible, and then fill in any gaps with greenstuff. The pin strengthens the join and makes it less likely that it will fall off again at the weak point, as well as giving the greenstuff support while it cures. If you're going to strip the models' paint anyway, do that first as most strippers will soften or melt the superglue, and they will eat greenstuff or epoxy putty like there's no tomorrow.

Thanks for the advice guys. Yeah, sorry man, but the 2 part epoxy has already been used lol, so no taking it back now.

As for removing the glue, I'll try freezing it first, I've had some bad experiences with dremel tools lol.

As for pinning, about how much does the GS and drill cost? I know some parts that would really benefit from pinning.

All in all, Most of the repairing I've done so far has been working pretty well and the stripping has gotten a good bit of glue off, but the glue on a few particular models has been quite resilient.