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I've been told this can be a terrible mess and a serious hazard, but does it work okay? These raptor jump packs are kicking my arse, and I really just want them to stick on there Permanently. I've got other things that I could solder too, but I'm not even sure If i should attempt it. Thoughts?

Also, how quick does pewter melt under the iron? Does it melt at all

Don't solder, Use JB KWIK or JB WELD. much easier and stronger.
http://jbweld.net/products/jbkwik.php

I wouldn't suggest it, Pewter for the most part is made of the same stuff as solder. It will melt.

Wow, that JB-quick stuff sounds amazing! Pretty cheap too! Only about 5 dollars! I think I've seen it at a local Hardware store. I'll check it out for sure.

Maybe I'm mistaken then...I mean using a soldering iron to melt the pewter on both ends to chemically bond the two ends...is that soldering? That's what some guys have been telling me.

Samus_aran115 wrote:Wow, that JB-quick stuff sounds amazing! Pretty cheap too! Only about 5 dollars! I think I've seen it at a local Hardware store. I'll check it out for sure.

Maybe I'm mistaken then...I mean using a soldering iron to melt the pewter on both ends to chemically bond the two ends...is that soldering? That's what some guys have been telling me.

Actually, that would be welding. And it'd be a physical bond, not a chemical one. /nitpick

Ive only ever soldered pipes, IMO youd need to find a tiny torch.

Hmm there has been alot of people having issues with metal models as of late.
There are a couple things that you can do and one has already been said. Another is pinning and gluing or straight gluing. With straight gluing make sure the model is cleaned in warm soapy water so that way it cleans all the mold release off the model and then glue and using accelerant to speed the process. This tends to weaken the joint when using the accelerant but i havent had many issues with this and it is the main way i do my metal models. Pinning is great for bigger joints but is too much of a pain for small joints.
I wouldnt suggest soldering unless you have something you can practice on that you dont care about.

Soldering just leave you with two very messy puddle of metallic goo, I'm a huge fan of pinning metal models as a note with backpacks pin against gravity so angle your pin and your entry hole for the pin it's a little fiddly but you will find it's a stronger hold in the end.

Roughen up the ends of the metal where they meet and use super glue and mighty putty. I've glued bases on models who are wearing high heels this way and it works well.

DO NOT USE A SOLDERING IRON ON METAL MODELS!!!

They will melt. Worse, they go from painfully hot but still stiff to molten in a second.

Pinning and epoxy cement (Araldite) is the way to go. Rough up the mating surfaces to let the resin key well. Make sure the model is properly cleaned after you have done your prep work, as finger grease will weaken the bond.

Metal models are easy to construct when you pin. Pin everything. Pinning sets can be had cheaply off eBay with all the brass rod, drill and bits you need to do it (minus the superglue). I have models that are 20+ years old that are still holding together nicely because they were pinned (with paperclips back then).

NEVER SOLDER

All of the different types of white metal all have one thing in common 1 degree Celsius range from solidifying to fully liquid

I had a generic electric circuit board soldering gun, it doesn't really work... the real issue is the model won't get hot enough to conduct the flux (solder) away from the tip of the gun. What I had to do was load the tip with a good amount of solder then apply direct pressure (slap it) and hope it fell in the right spot. As you can see it really isn't appropriate for small scale stuff.


These people are probably using the big daddy soldering guns which can be dangerous to the extreme, and yeah I wouldn't use those.

Ive tried to solder and weld large models (hive tyrant for example) as a quick-fix to save pinning.
Dont even waste time thinking about it.
Granted it holds, but a slight slip either will result in alot of damage or a part thats not lined up right.

You are far better off using suggestions on here.
If its something bigger in the future then take all advice (clean, rough up edges, pin, then use epoxy)
That will ensure it wont break unless thrown for some odd reason.

Soldering is joining two like metals with a second unlike metal that has a lower melting point. The problem you will run into is that pewter, and any solder you find will have very similar melting points leaving you with a pool of very hot molten goo.

I've had bad experiences with pinning. It never works for me. My bit is never the right size, or the bit breaks, or something. I hate pinning.

My suggestion? Get over it. Metal models must be pinned. It's that simple. The combination of a pinned joint glued with JB Kwik, will never come apart.

If your bits are breaking, you are pushing too hard. Let the bit cut, don't try to force it into the model. Test fit the base of the bit to the pin you are using before starting, that way you will know if it fits or not before you start work.

I use my variable speed cordless drill for pinning big stuff, but the hand pin vice works just as well. Just takes a bit longer.

^ This, unfortunately.

One of the prices of working with metal is the cost of time and futziness to pin it all together. With larger models especially, there is little else you can do.

When models were made of lead parts were just so heavy that sometimes pinning wasn't enough. My dad used to solder occasionally 20 years ago but neither of us have felt the need to do anything like this in years.

No.

You can't. Don't do it, don't even think about it. That way leads to puddles of molten metal that leave nice burns, and little else.

The melting point is so low that it will go from semi-molten (seemingly solid looking but the core is just about to go) to sublimation into a puddle in an eyeblink.

Possibly a temperature controlled soldering station might let you do it, but only serious tech geeks have those (Like me) but even I am not delusional enough to believe that it will end in anything but tears.

You should try to avoid welding your metal minis, even if it seems to work out in the short term it can couse them to crack later on, not to mention that the fumes can be hazardous.

I've actually used some 2 part liquid epoxy on a metal model before, takes a little to figure out the trick of it but then it worked like a charm.

Pinning is the best bet.

It's one of very few ways to assemble a Bloodthirster.

Soldering Iron and Necron wraith spine.... ended in epic fail. I tried and tried and tried. Pewter is just too soft and rehardens too quickly the solder that I have wouldnt bond to the pewter and the pewter just wanted to melt. Go with the pinning or the glueing... soldering iron is just all bad.

I have used a soldering iron successfully on models. I used a digitally controlled soldering iron (400.00 rig) with a paper clip wrapped round the body of the iron with the last inch or so stuck out for a tip. You have to be able to get the tip in between the two metal pieces, and have them braced in such a way that when the metal does melt, it is pulled by gravity toward the target join area on the other piece.

Overall, it was stupidly hard and mightily expensive. Glad the rig was from work. I am glad I tried it, but I could never recommend it. I can pin a joint in a minute or two. And a pin vise, or even a Dremel tool if you want to get fancy, is a fraction of the cost.

If you are snapping drill bits while pinning, there are a couple of things you can try (these really only apply to using a Dremel, where the revs can get upwards of 100,000 rpm. Obviously not an issue with a pin vise!) First, try drilling with a hell of a lot less pressure. Takes more time, but you want the bit to remove small pieces of pewter. Second, try using WD-40 or some kind of light oil in small amounts (Wash the (&^$%&* out of those parts when you are done and before gluing!!). Both of these work well for me, YMMV. The objective of both techniques is to keep heat down. As the piece being drilled heats up, the metal close to the bit melts, and as it is worked out of the hole it solidifies again. If the removed metal solidifies to the piece itself befor eit gets out of the hole, it sticks to the side of the hole, whilst still in the groove of the drill bit, which catches the drill bit and snaps it off like a dry twig. You could also try putting the parts in the freezer the night before, but I dunno if that would do the trick (sounds good enough I guess, but have never tried it).

Vindicator#9 wrote: ...and then glue and using accelerant to speed the process. This tends to weaken the joint when using the accelerant...

Zip kicker, while handy, is an evil, evil thing to use with your CA bonds, and can cause complications with your glue if you're not careful. It's good for a quick fix situation, but if you can help it, just let time and evaporation make the strongest bond you can get.... it'll save you a lot of trouble down the line.

I keep hearing that, and without being familiar with the chemical equations can certainly believe it to be reasonable. However, I have plenty of models that have been Zipped and I just dont have any issues from it.

Santobell wrote:Soldering just leave you with two very messy puddle of metallic goo, I'm a huge fan of pinning metal models as a note with backpacks pin against gravity so angle your pin and your entry hole for the pin it's a little fiddly but you will find it's a stronger hold in the end.

what do you use for pinning?

i thought solering might work too.

I tried to solder a space marine chaplain's arm on one and melted the bajesus out of it. its do able, just be careful because pewter melts fast

Samus_aran115 wrote:I've had bad experiences with pinning. It never works for me. My bit is never the right size, or the bit breaks, or something. I hate pinning.

Honestly, if you don't have the patience to figure it out, you should probably stick to plastics.

That's one opinion, Zip. Another is that they could go someplace where they might have access to people who have successfully done such a thing before. Any ideas where such a place might be?