Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Im looking for a plastic glue to use instead of the games workshop glue which has a really thick end that is hard to glue small things with. Im looking for one that will hold well and has a really thin nozzle.

Thanks

Thamor wrote:Im looking for a plastic glue to use instead of the games workshop glue which has a really thick end that is hard to glue small things with. Im looking for one that will hold well and has a really thin nozzle.

Thanks

Not sure on your end of the pond, but loc-tite makes a control bottle superglue liquid or gel. You squeeze the side "buttons" to control the flow and the opening is thinner then the gw bottle.

Thamor - Google for "precision poly". Sorted.

Edit - The one in the flat-sided tube is much easier to dispense and control flow than the circular one. Get one of them if you can find 'em.

I agree with Sgt1480, and say Loc-tite control gel.

I use testors model glue. They make little tips to stick on the ends that make the glue as fine as a pin if you wanted. And the testors glue holds something fierce

Guys, no offence meant, but super glue is utterly naff compared to the strength that the weld of poly provides when gluing plastics.

The OP asked for a plastic glue that would hold well (a weld is stronger than gluing), and has a really thin nozzle. The glue you recommended fails on both counts.

I do however use the Loctite control ultra gel myself for small metal joins (and metal to plastic etc) where a rapid epoxy is too messy, as it is by far the best superglue i've come across. The flexible nature of it makes it very resistant to knocks compared to normal superglue, and the extended drying time makes it easy to adjust the join while it sets. S'good stuff.

Edit - Not used the Testors suggested by the Ninja above, so can't comment on it.

The Testors model master works for me.

I comes in a black squeeze type bottle w/ a precision meatl applicator tip.

Allows dead application to very small parts that are being glued.

Is it a poly?

Edit - Yeah, just had a nosey at the site and it seems that it is (assuming i'm looking at the right one!). That'll explain why you US guys like it. The Humbrol and Revell versions are easier to get hold of over here though obv.

Testors Model master range has a good bottle that suits the purpose.

Humbrol have a similar one.
Revell has their own Contacta brand (contacta pro comes in the darker blue angled bottle and is what I use - small nozzle).

Something with a really strong smell, after awhile everything seems to get smaller...

... it seems that the label has been scratched off the bottle of what I have... it a kind of black square with the nozzle coming off of one corner. It has a pretty small nozzle at the business end.

I got it at a hobby lobby in the modeling section; don't know if you have them over yonder

Sounds like the Testors Model Master bottle.

Squarish bottle (leans over).
The strong smell is because of the solvent mix required to make it work AND keep it liquid (gunge-in-a-tube-or-bottle has a gel carrier that makes it smell different)

^^ Reminiscent of those little 'pear drop' sweeties.

Knowing the sort of cack that goes into sweets and flavourings, it wouldn't surprise me in the slightest if it was the very same chemicals. heh


Automatically Appended Next Post:

chromedog wrote:
Revell has their own Contacta brand (contacta pro comes in the darker blue angled bottle and is what I use - small nozzle).

Thats the one I use too. Much better bottle than the round humbrol one.

I use the standard Testors in the orange tube. welds the plastic for a permanent bond.
For fine applications I let out a drop onto paper then use a toothpick to apply.

I use the Contacta pro and contacta (jar with brush).
Two glues with different roles.

The needle tip bottle is used for kits and models.

The jar is used when I have to make Squadron Green putty thinner to better fill casting imperfections in resin models (they have the same active ingredient, and the thinner stuff even dries faster ). Works wonders.

You really do need GOOD ventilation around you though. I cannot stress this enough. Toluene IS nasty in enclosed spaces (I'm expecting it to be harder to get in Euro soon enough given its 'bad-guy' status).

Fun with enes!

The cold weld with plastic glues seems to be, in my opinion, virtually the same with all brands. I suppose what should matter to you past that point is preference in viscosity, nozzle size and drying speed. The standard Testors brand red-orangish (the simple one) foil tube is horrific, but cheap. Horrific largely because you usually end up dispensing WAAAY too much for your model, largely because of the wide nose and foil tube, and for a fast cold weld liquid, that's really bad. Especially on small parts. That meanst smears and imperfections. But it's cheap. Games workshop brand seems to do pretty well, but you are paying for brand name glue and the nozzle is not narrow. I have seen the Testors Model Master dispener before but have never tried it yet. I'd give it a shot though, more than one person here has reccomended it.

Orki wrote:Fun with enes!

And with '-ones' especially ketones. The related glue/solvent for ABS plastic seems to be a combination of acetone or toluene AND MEK.

another vote for Revell Contacta - the only downside is having to occasionally unblock the 'needle' applicator nozzle.

That isn't hard to do.

8amp fuse wire (for lighting) fits down the tube fine. Run it up and down a few times and it clears it.

Otherwise, pull the metal tube out and run it through a flame (OUTSIDE!) until it goes 'phut!' and little flames puff from the ends (all internal gunk is now burnt out.).

Allow to cool then push back into yellow cap. Done.

I'd definitely go with Revell Contacta too, never looked back since buying my first one. Great control for tiny amounts, easy to run along joins for tanks. Bees knees as far as I'm concerned.

chromedog wrote:That isn't hard to do.

8amp fuse wire (for lighting) fits down the tube fine. Run it up and down a few times and it clears it.

Or for those hairy sort of peeps that don't have a clue about electrics, use a top E guitar string, or unwind some multi-core steel picture hanging wire.

Whaddaya mean you don't play guitar?

I don't play since I bisected my radial nerve (thumb) on my playing hand (21 years ago).

It's not just the lack of touch response as the fact that the scar where the nerve now 'ends' is right where my thumb will sometimes touch the string (and with an electric, send a shock down the nerve to the elbow, sending the hand into spasm.)

So I use fuse wire or a ciggy lighter. Easy.

Revell Contacta is the stuff, comes with a metal tubes to control the application perfectly.

I wouldn't bother using superglue on a plastic kit. Superglue is nasty runny stuff, unless you get the gel sort, and if it gets in the wrong place it ruins stuff and when you use large amounts you inevitably get some on your fingers which leads to all sorts of fun. Why use superglue when you can use plastic cement, it makes your life much easier especially now there are so many plastic miniatures.

Ditto on the Revel.
Also Humbrol liquid poly - however ditch the brush that comes attached to the lid (just clip it off) and use an old but still ok brush. The glue doesn't damage the bristtles so you don't have to clean it and it should last a good long while.

A friend of mine is in the horrid habit, that I keep trying to talk him out of, using super glue on plastic models. Super glue simply doesn't have the strength. His Vendetta gunships have broken multiple times in the same locations when they get knocked over or fall off their stands. The only reason I use them on pewter minis is because pinning really helps the join hold up, I don't have the patience for JB Weld, and I have yet to find the Loctite stuff.

Revell Contacta, or Humbrol Liquid Poly. Both pretty cheap under £3 usually. Work like a treat.

i like to use Jet superglue. Its sold at my local hobbytown USA store. I like it because their line offers about 6 difference viscosities to work with. I prefer to use something thin as well. The feature of the glue that I like the most however is the fact that when you glue something....its incredibly rare for you to end up with that white film, chalky residue that most superglues leave after they solidify. This makes it ideal for gluing parts even after they have been painted without problem.

JET Super Glue is the best!

Thanks for all the tips guys.

Personnaly I use humbrol poly et precision poly

Revell Contacta Professional. Under £3, and the applicatior has an internal diameter thinner than a paperclip. I have to clean it sometimes with a length of florestry wire (that's fething thin!)


http://www.wonderlandmodels.com/products/revell-contacta-pro-25gm/

^I've never shopped there but they look pretty good. Shop around for a better deal if you like.