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Made in us
Posts with Authority





South Carolina (upstate) USA

Well I just finished my first Necron Lord and squad of 10 warriors.

Warriors were a quick job just to get them table ready. Still think they came out good. The lord got more time and effort but still didnt take too long.

Heres how I did the warriors...

Assemble and prime
Base coat of Boltgun metal
Light coat of Minwax Polyshades Mission Oak satin, thinned to 80%
Paint eyes Scorpion green
Paint base sides black, top DA green, then flock
DONE








What do you folks think?

Whats my game?
Warmachine (Cygnar)
10/15mm mecha
Song of Blades & Heroes
Blackwater Gulch
X wing
Open to other games too






 
   
Made in us
Commoragh-bound Peer





Its a simple color scheme, but I bet it looks really nice on the table top!

- 1750
 
   
Made in us
Posts with Authority





South Carolina (upstate) USA

Frankie wrote:Its a simple color scheme, but I bet it looks really nice on the table top!


It does. I wanted something quick to do for the rank & file troops. Its hows the minis detail but didnt take much time to do at all. Saves my patience for the bigger/more important minis.


Also between the toughness of the polyshades and the lightness of the plastic they are quite durable as well.

Whats my game?
Warmachine (Cygnar)
10/15mm mecha
Song of Blades & Heroes
Blackwater Gulch
X wing
Open to other games too






 
   
Made in fi
Battlewagon Driver with Charged Engine





somewhere in the northern side of the beachball

Color is kinda flat and I don't think lush grass field suist for a race that died long ago.

Every time I hear "in my opinion" or "just my opinion" makes me want to strangle a puppy. People use their opinions as a shield that other poeple can't critisize and that is bs.

If you can't defend or won't defend your opinion then that "opinion" is bs. Stop trying to tip-toe and defend what you believe in. 
   
Made in us
Posts with Authority





South Carolina (upstate) USA

illuknisaa wrote:Color is kinda flat and I don't think lush grass field suist for a race that died long ago.


Actually its got a decent gloss to it, just doesnt show in the pictures very well.

As far as the grass...I thought of that at first too...but necrons arent exclusive to tomb worlds, they raid living inhabited worlds frequently. That and I dont have any sand flock, and didnt feel like buying some just for one army, that stuff lasts forever. Besides most tables are grass or green, so they will fit in pretty much anywhere I take them.

Whats my game?
Warmachine (Cygnar)
10/15mm mecha
Song of Blades & Heroes
Blackwater Gulch
X wing
Open to other games too






 
   
Made in us
Drop Trooper with Demo Charge





CFB Trenton

Win.

 
   
Made in gb
Monstrous Master Moulder





Essex,, England

A devlan mud wash or a baddab black to really bring them out. Other than, they look great!


 
   
Made in au
Lady of the Lake






Maybe a Badab Black wash and a light Asurman Blue wash.
Leaves them with a cold steel look that I find better than the Devlin Mud as it leaves them slightly rusty looking. But both are still good.

You could just do Badab Black itself as that does come out alright for metal in general. Really leaves you with a few options that would work depending on the overall all look you want them to have. Generally Badab Black would be enough though.

   
Made in us
Last Remaining Whole C'Tan






Pleasant Valley, Iowa

They don't look bad, but it's a very minimal job, which was obviously your intention. If your goal is to get them to the tabletop asap, then you're set.

If you wanted to refine them a little, this is my method for simple but effective necrons, which take not much more work but look pretty good:

I glue them with very little glue, one foot only, onto temp bases.

1.) Base in boltgun metal
2.) Guns in Tin Bitz, combat attachments in boltgun metal
3.) Hoses in some shade of green, either DA or Orkhide Shade or whatever.
4.) Instead of minwax polyshades, switch to devlan mud, badab black, or asurmen blue as mentioned earlier. I originally did a bunch of necrons with minwax, and found that the devlan mud looks the same, but is easier to control: i found the minwax often pooled in unexpected place; and the washes are much easier to clean up. Of course, if I had to do 100 necrons and needed them SAP, then I'd go back to the minwax.
5.) Eyes in scorpion green.
6.) Highlight on the combat attachment and various necron parts in mithril silver
7.) Chest symbol in shining gold

While I'm waiting for various steps there to dry, I do the bases.

1.) Elmer's glue, sand, overnight.
2.) Paint with cheap black art paint ($1.79/4oz tube). Black is Black.
3.) Drybrush with cheap dark grey art paint. Adeptus Battlegrey shade or so.
4.) Drybrush much more lightly with lighter grey art paint. Codex grey or so.
5.) Wash with 60/40 devlan mud/water.

I then slice the necrons off the temp base (the ankles break easily) and then glue them onto the permanent base before dullcoating them both. Then I glue in the green rods.



 lord_blackfang wrote:
Respect to the guy who subscribed just to post a massive ASCII dong in the chat and immediately get banned.

 Flinty wrote:
The benefit of slate is that its.actually a.rock with rock like properties. The downside is that it's a rock
 
   
Made in us
Chalice-Wielding Sanguinary High Priest





Arlington TX, but want to be back in Seattle WA

I like the color the minwax left on the necrons. Nice job

4250 points of Blood Angels goodness, sweet and silky W12-L6-D4
1000 points of Teil-Shan (my own scheme) Eldar Craftworld in progress
800 points of unassembled Urban themed Imperial Guard
650 points of my do-it-yourself Tempest Guard
675 points of Commoraghs finest!

The Dude - "Jackie Treehorn treats objects like women, man."

Lord Helmet - "I bet she gives great helmet."

 
   
Made in us
Posts with Authority





South Carolina (upstate) USA

Ouze wrote:They don't look bad, but it's a very minimal job, which was obviously your intention. If your goal is to get them to the tabletop asap, then you're set.

If you wanted to refine them a little, this is my method for simple but effective necrons, which take not much more work but look pretty good:

I glue them with very little glue, one foot only, onto temp bases.

1.) Base in boltgun metal
2.) Guns in Tin Bitz, combat attachments in boltgun metal
3.) Hoses in some shade of green, either DA or Orkhide Shade or whatever.
4.) Instead of minwax polyshades, switch to devlan mud, badab black, or asurmen blue as mentioned earlier. I originally did a bunch of necrons with minwax, and found that the devlan mud looks the same, but is easier to control: i found the minwax often pooled in unexpected place; and the washes are much easier to clean up. Of course, if I had to do 100 necrons and needed them SAP, then I'd go back to the minwax.
5.) Eyes in scorpion green.
6.) Highlight on the combat attachment and various necron parts in mithril silver
7.) Chest symbol in shining gold

While I'm waiting for various steps there to dry, I do the bases.

1.) Elmer's glue, sand, overnight.
2.) Paint with cheap black art paint ($1.79/4oz tube). Black is Black.
3.) Drybrush with cheap dark grey art paint. Adeptus Battlegrey shade or so.
4.) Drybrush much more lightly with lighter grey art paint. Codex grey or so.
5.) Wash with 60/40 devlan mud/water.

I then slice the necrons off the temp base (the ankles break easily) and then glue them onto the permanent base before dullcoating them both. Then I glue in the green rods.




For the warriors the idea was a passable paint job as quickly as possible since Ill end up doing a pretty fair amount of them. When I get to the other units like destroyers/pariahs/etc I plan to put more effort into those and I may try some of your suggestions.

Whats my game?
Warmachine (Cygnar)
10/15mm mecha
Song of Blades & Heroes
Blackwater Gulch
X wing
Open to other games too






 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





North Wales

not too keen on any of it to be honest.. im sure the photos dont do them any justice, but i cant see any shading/highlights and the base is awfuly simple... bases dont take that long to do and are very inexpensive, for my desert themed ones i use a £2 large bag of coarse sand i picked up from my local DIY shop, dry it on tinfoil in the oven, give my base a coat of wood adhesive (which is like £2 a bottle) apply some small pebbles from the sand, then use the finer stuff for the rest, allow it to dry, prime it, paint in a light coffee brown, pick the larger pebbles out with adeptus battlegrey, wash with gryphonne sepia, and give a very light drybrush of white

 
   
Made in gb
Grim Dark Angels Interrogator-Chaplain





Earth

for my bases i went into back garden, picked up some mud, put it into tray, let it dry out next to radiator... glued to base, painted it.... done

it amazes me that people pay for sand etc.
if i need sand i go find a builing site, and "aquire" some sand.
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





North Wales

Formosa wrote:for my bases i went into back garden, picked up some mud, put it into tray, let it dry out next to radiator... glued to base, painted it.... done

it amazes me that people pay for sand etc.
if i need sand i go find a builing site, and "aquire" some sand.


ive tried using soil, and hated it, ive tried using the GW basing kit, and hated it. so i use sand, and when i can get a huge bag from a shop 2 streets away for £2 im not going to drive for 2 hours to the nearest beach

 
   
Made in ca
Possessed Khorne Marine Covered in Spikes




Kelowna BC

Formosa wrote:it amazes me that people pay for sand etc.
if i need sand i go find a builing site, and "aquire" some sand.


me too but i call that building site 'outside'

also, mad4, nice, simple job. nothing wrong with that work and it's fine for tabletop. necrons are gloriously simple and fun to paint and making them look great is effortless. my only suggestion would be to actually paint the green rods because the cheap green plastic looks, well, like cheap and fake plasic. it's a fast, simple step that you can add in if you're inclined: prime them on the sprue, slap on any colour of green with a lighter line or two to taste, and away you go.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2010/10/25 15:37:46


 
   
 
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