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I have a few of questions about files.
1. Where to get files?
2. What type of files?
3. How do you use the files?

Thanks.

1 - My current favorite set of files came from Harbor Freifht
2 - These are the ones I have http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-needle-file-set-468.html
3 - I use them in conjunction with a hobby knife to remove mold lines and extraneous detail.

I think in USA it´s the same like in Germany. Normally i buy such stuff in a local DIY store. Most the time they´re cheaper then the GW stuff. Or you look out for a hobby store for larger models (ships, RC....). Those stores have also files and other tools for a fair price. You can get those needle files in different shapes and cuts, but this depends on what do you need them for.
Oh, a good advice for keep files clean, use a soft brass brush.

ToxicsLayer wrote:I have a few of questions about files.
1. Where to get files?
2. What type of files?
3. How do you use the files?

Thanks.

I used files once...but eventually found out that emery boards or fingernail files work just as well. The additional plus to a fingernail file is that you have a coarse side and a fine filing side, so it really helps when you start to do larger projects like vehicles...also really helps out with pewter characters. You can use them a variety of ways though, file off mold lines, amend imperfections to help a model go together better, make conversions, really anything.

I have two very crappy files, not sure where I got them from, but I rarely use them. And as Element said, emery boards are cheap and just as useful.

I normally use needle files but took the plunge and bought a set of diamond files. The problem I had with ordinary needle files was that no matter how careful I was I ended up with 'teeth' marks on the models and could never completely get rid of them. Diamond files are strange in that they are quicker to use and more effective in getting rid of mould lines, instead of teeth marks the finish is more like a sand paper effect. They are more expensive than ordinary needle files; a set of five cost me £9.99 from hobbycraft in edinburgh, and these were at he cheap end in terms of price and quality. They seem to work though;no teeth marks.

I bought a set of 10 files for £2.50 off a hardware stall at an Airshow last year. they're fine for what I need them to do.

There are three types of useful files.

Warding Files
These are used by locksmiths to fit locks nicely. They are small enough to do most modelling tasks, and large enough too.

Needle Files
These are like small Warding files but they do not usually have the taper on the blade. However, their small size lets you get into places you can't reach effectively with a real Warding File. There are also mini needle files and diamond needle files.

Heavy Metal File
This is useful if you buy the traditional, non-slotta base historical miniatures. It is used to quickly file the underneath of the base flat for mounting.

They are all easily found from on-line sellers. Warding files and metal files are usually available from DIY shops.

http://www.newmodellersshop.co.uk/expo_tools_files.htm

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0001P0O82/ref=asc_df_B0001P0O821214318?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&tag=googlecouk06-21&linkCode=asn&creative=22206&creativeASIN=B0001P0O82

I only really use files when smoothing/flatenning two surfaces to glue together. I got my file from... well I nicked it from my schools tech dept.

TheGiantPeanut wrote:I only really use files when smoothing/flatenning two surfaces to glue together. I got my file from... well I nicked it from my schools tech dept.

nice. The term 'nick' could then explain my origins into 40k. That was basically an after school hobby of me and my friends for a few months, each of us 'nicking' our way to an army list. I must have nicked about 25 of the old pewter Terminators! ---of course my instant karma soon followed after

The problem with most needle files is that they're A) bastard cut and B) low quality. If you can get a nice mill cut file, you'll be removing stock quickly and cleanly (bastard cut is great for coarse work on wood, but a good mill file will give you a mirror finish on pewter and won't leave those unsightly scratches on plastic, unless you slip up and it bites on an edge).

Diamond coated files are basically permanent, medium grit sandpaper-on-a-stick, so the finish will always be a bit rough. Honestly, I only use mine for moderate stock removal (serious shift lines and the like) where my triangular mill won't fit (stupid concavities...) and I always do the final shaping and finishing by scraping with my knife blade, just to get rid of the crappy, scratchy finish they leave.

Whatever type of file you opt to get, remember that you get what you pay for, first and foremost. My favorite file for metalwork is from the '40s, if I'm not mistaken. Get good tools, take good care of them, and you'll get much better results for much longer than the cheapies. Also, you don't need a 12-piece set. You'll end up using 3 or 4 most of the time. You'd be better off getting 3 or 4 better files for the same price as the jumbo crap set (check out jeweler's suppliers online). Triangular and round are all you really need. Flat and half-round are probably the next 2 most used (flat for bulk stock removal - triangle and half-round have flat sides, but usually taper to a point, which is less than ideal for large, flat surfaces).

Oh, and metal files only cut in 1 direction. It doesn't really matter with plastic (or even pewter, really), but trying to cut on the draw will A) not work and B) dull your files. After the cutting stroke (the push), lift the file off of the material, pull it back, then you can cut again. Just thought I'd throw in some general file advice, since we're on the topic. It really won't matter much with plastic, though, so don't worry. Simply best not to reinforce bad habits, should you ever move on to wood-/metalwork.

Also, a file card (a fine brass brush will work in a pinch) will be a life saver if you use use regular metal files. Diamond files work like sandpaper, so they get packed with dust in the same way. A stiff eraser will help clear them out between more thorough cleanings.