GW transfer sheets

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**AlmightyWalrus**

Is it just me that sucks, or are the transfer sheets that you get with GW products (in this case Space Marines) really horrible? How on Earth are you supposed to make the chapter symbols adhere to the shoulder pads of a marine without getting either wrinkles or parts of plastic sticking out?

**MechaEmperor7000**

I personally never use them. If I want a symbol on the pad I just freehand it.

**chromedog**

Decal solvent. Followed by a setting agent. How do you think aircraft modellers get decals to adhere to the curves on aircraft noses?

They are decals (water slide decals) after all, not transfers.

Look into MicroSol and MicroSet.

I only use decals on vehicles. Infantry models get freehand.

**Pipboy101**

chromedog wrote:Decal solvent. Followed by a setting agent. How do you think aircraft modellers get decals to adhere to the curves on aircraft noses?

They are decals (water slide decals) after all, not transfers.

Look into MicroSol and MicroSet.

I only use decals on vehicles. Infantry models get freehand.

I agree, microsol is the way to go if you are using decals on uneven surfaces. I just hate how shiny the decals are. I just free hand all my symbols if I need some. The decals have sucked for years.

**oadie**

If you varnish your models for play, the gloss of a transfer is irrelevant. I've managed just fine on the shoulder pad of my test marine. I painted a layer of gloss varnish on the pad, applied the transfer with water, then hit it with Badger Model Flex Decal Softening Solution (works just fine and I picked it up on the cheap). After a spray of gloss varnish for durability and a dusting of matte to remove the shine, it looks no different than the adjacent freehand (well, it's a lot cleaner looking

).

**Matrim**

My dads an aircraft modeller, and uses Floor Polish to apply his decals. works a treat, and he came 3rd in the Nationals

**Pipboy101**

Well, I just hate decals. It is normally easier for me to free hand the markings or just by parts with the markings sculpted on to them already. Don't like to use too many different products on my models so painting is just much easier. If I do have to use decals microsol is great because the decal doesn't stick out like a sore thumb like most because it is melted and bonded with the paint.

**BloodDrop101X**

Ive never had that problem especially on my marines whatre you doing wrong? and the only problem I ever have is them flaking off but I didnt know I was supposed to seal them back then so thats been taken care of...

**Draglide12**

The symbols that I use don't have decals so I've never used them. I suppose tweezers could help.

**Daedricbob**

The thing with decals is that if you follow the instructions, (Cut, water, apply) then they look horrible and have a tendency to crease, 'silver' when air bubbles get caught, and are unrealistically shiny.
As previously mentioned, matte varnish gets rid of the shiny border, and the products previously mentioned soften the decal and make sure it sticks to curved surfaces and sinks into panel recesses etc.
Do it right and it just looks like really neat painting.

**Bullfrog**

I've been using Microsol, which works brilliantly to help flatten the decals once they're on. Got some Microset now to go with it now but I never really thought about whether it should be allowed to dry before the decal goes on?