Metal model issues.

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**The Fragile Breath**

Let me start off by saying

Anyways, quite a while ago, I purchased the Deathleaper model. Now, it stayed together for a good long time, and I do like fielding him, but two months ago, he completely fell apart, and since, every attempt to get him back together has failed.

As you can imagine, I'm very frustrated and about ready to throw the scrap heap away. I've tried everything I can think of (everywhere from sanding, super glue, industrial strength adhesive, etc) and nothing will work. So please, Dakka, save Deathleaper. Any ideas of something else I could try to get my beloved model to fething stay together?

Many thanks.

**ClosetRoller**

Have you tried pinning the model? You'll need a drill (and probably a vice), but it's a great way to strengthen weak points.

**Draglide12**

Don't paint where you glue if you are. I use Super-Heavy glue and it holds mine together fine. I usually have to hold it to dry for abut 10 mins though.

**Ma55ter_fett**

maybe try green stuff?

**Matrim**

no-more nails, pinning.

**MechaEmperor7000**

along with all of the suggestions remember to clean off the residue from the old glue. that stuff is likely what's chipping and gluing on that will only make the problem worse. I had this problem with a mini of mine and I was too reluctant to strip him to get the glue off.

**Hawkins**

pinning and green stuff. after you clean the areans to put back together......

**The Fragile Breath**

Thanks everyone. So...should I completely strip him of his paint to get rid of everything?

**Gavin Thorne**

I wouldn't. Just clean the areas of the old glue and reset your joins with pins and good glue. Then, use a brush-on primer to recoat the areas damaged by your repair and touch up the paint. Hit it with another coat of polysealant and you'll be fine.

**Hawkins**

Gavin Thorne wrote:I wouldn't. Just clean the areas of the old glue and reset your joins with pins and good glue. Then, use a brush-on primer to recoat the areas damaged by your repair and touch up the paint. Hit it with another coat of polysealant and you'll be fine.

Yup that

**The Fragile Breath**

Sorry to be so derp, but clean the joints how?

**Peter Wiggin**

The Fragile Breath wrote:Thanks everyone. So...should I completely strip him of his paint to get rid of everything?

That'd be my vote, then pin the model and repaint. You'd be amazed at some of the poses folks get with pins....god knows I have been.

**The Fragile Breath**

Pinning scares me. Especially since I've got no drill and am dirt poor.

**chromedog**

Superglue DOES NOT stick to itself well.
As for removal ... superglue usually chips out.

It's not a good overall adhesive (it has good strength in only one direction - in all others it is weak).

Pinning is just a matter of control and some skill. If you don't have a pin vice - do you have a GW nearby, or friends who DO have one?

**MechaEmperor7000**

given your description, the glue should come off with a bit of chipping from a hobby knife or a dental needle without damaging the model. However if you want to be extra sure, buy a solvent (I use Goof Off). However Superglue Solvents will dissolve plastic and paint, so remove any plastic parts from the model beforehand and be prepared to repaint the model.

**Solorg**

You must pin it. Or else it will fall apart again. If you are too afraid to do it, I'd pay a fellow hobbyist to do it. It's not hard for one who knows what he's doing. It's either this or wait until it comes out in plastic.

**Gavin Thorne**

Well, I totally get that. I'm in close to the same boat, but have, over the years, accumulated tools necessary for the hobby. A pin vise or hobby drill is one of those purchases that you'll have forever and wonder how you got along before you had it.

They're around $10-20 at a hobby or craft store for a decent one and you might find one second hand for less than that. The bits normally run $1 each at my local model train shop, but you can buy sets of them from Harbor Freight for a little less than than, although in quantity. There's also a pinning bit/wire set available at FLGS's - not sure who the manufacturer is, maybe Privateer or Dream Pod 9? Someone help me out!

Once you get the hang of it - practice on old models and bits of sprue first - pinning is an awesome way to keep your models from coming apart.

As for cleaning joints, superglue will flake off if you take the edge of your hobby knife to it at a perpendicular angle, as though you're cleaning flash lines. Removing the model's paint isn't really necessary since you're only having to deal with the joins between parts. If you think it's necessary, soak the model overnight in Simple Green or Purple Power (both available at Walmart - PP's in the automotive section) and it changes the texture of the glue, making it brittle and flaky and easy to remove. You'll need to wash the model with soap and water before priming it again, though, and I think it's more work than is really necessary for a situation like this.

**Peter Wiggin**

The Fragile Breath wrote:Pinning scares me. Especially since I've got no drill and am dirt poor.

Attaching metal to metal is gonna be rough then. I have a dowel/socket system and home made molds done from GS....very easy to make if you are intersted in seeing them.

Also, NEVER attach machined flat surfaces unless you've cut alignment dowels into the plastic/metal. Its far more effective to score the two bonding surfaces prior to application of the adhesive. This dramatically increases the amount of surface area at each join, and in turn make the glue hold more solidly.

That model is more than small enough to easily magnetize too. You won't win a Golden Demon with it, but if you drop the model it just falls apart at the magnets and you put it back together again.

**Big Tim**

If the pieces are not sticking together, try using a glue accelerator.

http://www.votawtool.com/zcom.asp?pg=products&specific=jmrqnqcqg

This is the brand I use, and no matter how tricky a joint I am gluing, after 2 seconds this stuff causes the glue to hold it fast. Most craft/hobby stores should carry it (I buy my mine from a local model train store). I pay about 7 bucks, and it lasts for ages.

**Gavin Thorne**

Dashofpepper swears by baking soda as an accellerant, which is much cheaper and works about the same.

**bagley**

I use a hand drill like this, no need for a vice, or to worry too much about slipping off target

and just use some small rods of thin copper and superglue gel.

as said previously just clean off the joins with a knife and/or file to get rid of any old glue, and you shouldn't have to strip it and start again.

hope that helps

**Kilkrazy**

Pinning and Araldite.

**Warlord Gazghkull Thraka**

I haven't had any experince w/ metal models,but I would say maaaaaaaybe greenstuff?

**kizzdougs**

Another vote for the hobby drill.
It is a very worthwhile investment. I avoided buying one for ages but finally gave in and it is definitely worth it. Now i pin nearly all my minis, metal and plastic.