Super Glue not Bonding

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**MechaEmperor7000**

I am having SERIOUS issues with superglue. Sometimes it bonds, other times it's a complete dick. It bonds to my skin but acts like water on metal minis, even pinned ones. And this isnt GW glue either, even Loctite does this to me. Am I doing something wrong or is there a really short shelf-life for superglue? I've had them opened (well, with the cap closed, but the seal broken) for a good two to three months now.

**asmith**

The most important thing with superglue is flat, or tightly fitting surfaces, the bigger the better. If you have rough or wavy surfaces (like most metal miniatures have) you are trying to bond, your best bet is to file or grind both surfaces flat before you try to bond. Super glue does not fill gaps like epoxy will.

**Orki**

Superglue does fill gaps, It just takes longer to cure and will provide a weaker bond. The most important thing is to ensure the surafaces are free from any greasy residue (usually mould release and finger oils). It's still best to always use as little as possible though, and the suggestion above is founded on this principle.

You mentioned even on pinned ones too? This is unusual but it does happen occasionally, and is usually just grease on the rods.

Also i've never had a problem with Superglue that has been opened for months.

**MechaEmperor7000**

Problem is this sometimes happens to models that were originally tightly glued on. And the glue, no matter what brand, always go south at about the half-bottle point (apparently even Loctite).

I'm going to clean all my metal models with Goof Off before actually attempting to glue them and filing them down to fit. However the glue itself seems to be the problem. It also has a hard time bonding plastic, which is just stupid. Also, the glue sometimes dries white, usually when I spread it across a surface thinly and it dries. How bad of a sign is this?

**TedintheShed**

You should wash all of your models before assembling with warm water and Dawn dish washing soap. There is a mold release sprayed on the mold that the plastic and metal for the models to help the mdels part release from the mold, and it can inhibet the glue from working.

**asmith**

yeah if you have a bunch of old glue and stuff in the joint, you aren't going to have an easy time making it work. Clean out everything and try again. One good way to work is to put the two parts together then apply super glue to the join. It will get sucked in an make the bond. This way you can make sure you have good fit between the parts before you get glue in there obscuring everything.

**omnipotentclown**

Its a sign that you are using too much. It barely takes a tiny drop to secure surfaces with super glue. The more glue you use the longer it will take for the bond to set up, some times several minutes. if you feel it really requires more than a tiny drop, start off with a tiny drop and then come back a couple minutes after it dries and apply a 2nd drop to the joint. Make sure you are using the liquid type, not gel type. Finally, for metal on metal joints if the surfaces are even slightly irregular trying placing a tiny ball of greenstuff between the two surfaces before joining them & gluing them, the GS will solve your problem.

**MechaEmperor7000**

@ omnipotentclown: Yeah I tend to drown it in glue when there's a large joint. I'll take care to spread it evenly now and glue it in sections. Thanks =D

@ everyone else: I double washed it with dawn and pat and air dried it before attempting to glue. it was also a new model. Older models get both a Goof-off wash, glue cleaning and dawn wash before I even think about assembly.

**gannam**

Ok, I am going to tell you the secret. I have never heard the community talk about this, but a veteran war gamer showed me this trick. I haven't needed a single pin on metal after this. This works. Trust me.

First, score the area you want glued up with a hobby knife if possible. cut grooves into it. This gives the glue something to grab onto as it settles into the cracks.

2nd. Dip the area you want glued of your miniature in baking soda. " sprinkling on works as well". Apply the super glue, and hold it for about 15 seconds. It will bond like you have never seen it bond before.

Be careful not to get it on your hands, cause it will bond them just as well. There is a chemical reaction that takes place that makes the glue get very warm, but then the stuff turns to concrete.

Just try it out. I promise it works great for metal miniatures.

**MechaEmperor7000**

I'll try it with a bit of metal sprue sometime. However I'm not particularly afraid of it bonding to my skin. I've had this happen so much that I can prettymuch shed my skin on command now.

**TedintheShed**

MechaEmperor7000 wrote:@ omnipotentclown: Yeah I tend to drown it in glue when there's a large joint. I'll take care to spread it evenly now and glue it in sections. Thanks =D

@ everyone else: I double washed it with dawn and pat and air dried it before attempting to glue. it was also a new model. Older models get both a Goof-off wash, glue cleaning and dawn wash before I even think about assembly.

If you need to fill gaps, they make a thick superglue made specifically for that task. I have some, and it works wonderfully. The downside is the 2 minute curing time though.

Automatically Appended Next Post:
Yup. look here:

Accelerators

Besides water, cyanoacrylate polymerises also in presence of alcohol and basic compounds (including weak amines). The latter can be used to produce a superglue “kicker” – a compound which triggers quick polymerisation of the glue.

Baking soda is one well-known substance with this effect. If you apply a layer of superglue to a seam and gently pour baking soda over it, the glue will cure very quickly. It makes for most effective filler for smaller jobs, and the baking soda results in a slightly rough surface which is good for sanding.

gannam wrote:Ok, I am going to tell you the secret. I have never heard the community talk about this, but a veteran war gamer showed me this trick. I haven't needed a single pin on metal after this. This works. Trust me.

First, score the area you want glued up with a hobby knife if possible. cut grooves into it. This gives the glue something to grab onto as it settles into the cracks.

2nd. Dip the area you want glued of your miniature in baking soda. " sprinkling on works as well". Apply the super glue, and hold it for about 15 seconds. It will bond like you have never seen it bond before.

Be careful not to get it on your hands, cause it will bond them just as well. There is a chemical reaction that takes place that makes the glue get very warm, but then the stuff turns to concrete.

Just try it out. I promise it works great for metal miniatures.

**MechaEmperor7000**

I have something like that. Zzap Gap was the name I think. However it was the first of my glue to turn to complete mush. 10 minutes and it still wouldnt cure.

**asmith**

When superglue goes bad, it basically cures in the bottle. It doesn't go bad such that it doesn't cure.

**TedintheShed**

MechaEmperor7000 wrote:I have something like that. Zzap Gap was the name I think. However it was the first of my glue to turn to complete mush. 10 minutes and it still wouldnt cure.

The stuff I have is a model airplane glue, made by a company called Great Planes.

**MechaEmperor7000**

I'll try the methods tomorrow, it's getting late here. Hopefully I'll have better luck with the Throne of Judgement since it has a few more notches and is designed *slightly* better than the Master of Ravenwing Bike.

**Madness!**

You are probably using plastic cement, not superglue. It looks and smells just the same, but will not work on pewter model parts; not even metal-to-plastic joins.

**Wulfgang**

ok guys the real scope is they changed the formulation of super glue cuz to many little kiddies were complaining about the fumes I've had the same problem. I beat it by using an accelerator. The goody goodies have struck again, FOR THE CHILDREN, gimma a break. Super glue should be used under adult supervision.......

**BloodQuest**

If you're still having problems you might want to consider a 15 minute epoxy.

Super glue is convenient, but overrated in my opinion.

**winnertakesall**

Dont use liquid superglue, Loctite Ultra control Gel. Much easier to use. doesnt come rushing out and gules your fingers to mini, and the pipe doesnt get clogged. Its a bit more expnesive, but worth it.

**calypso2ts**

When I have metal figures that are difficult I first score both surfaces to be attached with a hobby knife. I then put a small dab of super glue in it and a small ball of a strong epoxy. A tiny dab of superglue on the other surface and I press them together, Usually the piece sets in 20-30 seconds and I can release it. I then shave off the extra epoxy that flooded out of the joint. I have never pinned a model, and using this method I assembled a pair of Penitent Engines (where I Developed it, these are a NIGHTMARE) and a Keeper of Secrets.

The only time this joint has broken is on the KoS when it was dropped.

**Mad4Minis**

I use gel superglue almost exclusively. It stays where you apply it and fills gaps nicely. It does take a bit of time to dry, but a quick squirt of zip kicker solves that.

The only thing I use liquid super glue for is filling the hex bases on my Battletech mechs. Theres usually a pretty good gap around the bottom of the mech and the sides of the hex base, some cheap liquid superglue fills that nicely.

Automatically Appended Next Post:

calypso2ts wrote:When I have metal figures that are difficult I first score both surfaces to be attached with a hobby knife. .

I do this on joints too small to be worth pinning.

**MechaEmperor7000**

I'm already using Loctite and I'm pretty sure that's a superglue (it says superglue on the bottle). I've taken the advice about smaller amounts and it seems to be working, although the Throne of Judgement's body assembly has a pretty tight snap-on. Cleaning the Ravenwing master and I'll try the baking soda idea when I get some soda.

**calypso2ts**

The Throne of Judgement is another nightmare. I would highly recommend pinning the 'axle' that attaches the two legs together to the main body. I need to rip my own apart and redo it, it was one of my first models and the quality of assembly reflects that.