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Krylon Black Primer Feels Powdery on Minis  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
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Made in us
Battlefortress Driver with Krusha Wheel






Boulder, CO

I've just got finished priming 30 Ork boyz and some Nobz. I noticed that after the primer dried it has a slightly rough, powdery, texture to it on the mini.
Is this a problem? Is my paint going to look textured and bad now?
Anyone else have this experience?
Thanks guys!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/12/23 18:41:17


 
   
Made in us
Perfect Shot Dark Angels Predator Pilot





Indianapolis, Indiana

Welcome to the forum, but I think you should have used this awesome thing called the search function. The most likely causes of your dilemma could be not shaking the paint enough, spraying too far away from the model, and the can being too cold. I would suggest shaking it better, making sure it's not cold, and spraying about 8-11 inches away from the model.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/12/23 17:58:33




Attention all space marine bashing neckbeards: Nobody cares what you have to say, so stop trying and go cry yourself to sleep. 
   
Made in us
Slaanesh Chosen Marine Riding a Fiend




Inside a pretty, pretty pain cave... won't you come inside?

Sounds like you need to shake (mix) the paint more, spray in a warmer area, and make sure it's dry (no humidity). You *can* paint over what you have, but the texture will likely seep through. You're probably better off stripping and re-coating at this point. Sorry.

 
   
Made in us
Battlefortress Driver with Krusha Wheel






Boulder, CO

Thanks!
I believe it must have been spraying too far away.
The area was nice and warm at about 70 degrees
and I shook my can for about 5 mins.
I did try using the search, but either there were no other threads about my problem or my criteria was off.
Didn't find anything on my problem.
Anyway, thanks for your suggestions.
I'm going to test paint a few models and see how they look.
If it's not terrible I may just leave it this way.
I have way to many more models to paint to worry about a few boyz having skin problems.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/12/23 18:38:59


 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





With Krylon paints I also like to dump the first bit of paint from the can onto cardboard. Spray the can for 30 or 60 seconds. Then test spray one miniature to see if you have the appropriate distance, warmth and humidity. You will notice very quickly if it is going to prime poorly or well.
   
Made in us
Posts with Authority





South Carolina (upstate) USA

Distance is the likely cause...the paint was drying before it got to the minis. Also make sure the nozzle is nice and clean...if its clogged a bit it will spatter instead of spraying a fine mist.

Whats my game?
Warmachine (Cygnar)
10/15mm mecha
Song of Blades & Heroes
Blackwater Gulch
X wing
Open to other games too






 
   
Made in us
Deranged Necron Destroyer





Northern Virginia, USA.

Don't shake to long either. 1 minute of shaking should be plenty.


malfred wrote:Buy what you like.

Paint what you love.
 
   
Made in us
Battlefortress Driver with Krusha Wheel






Boulder, CO

Yeah, I'm almost positive it was distance.
I've got an idea on how to address the already primed models.
First I'm going to scratch test one or two of them to see if the primer managed to get a good bond.
If I get a good test, I'm going to throw a model or two in a sack with some sand and agitate it a few mins.
Pull the model out and see if the roughness is gone.
I figure it will be kind of like a rock tumbler.
If it comes out more smooth, I'll wash the models up to get the extra dust off them and then paint them.
Anyone think that might be a terrible idea?

**Update**
Sand tumbling does smooth it out a bit, but the dust makes it a really labor intensive process. Wont be doing more of that.

End of story is, I'll just have to bear with some Ork boyz with bad complexions. Also I'll be holding the can closer in the future.
Thanks all!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/12/23 21:48:44


 
   
 
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