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In my mother-effin' minis!

Anyway, I can't find a good way to remove them. I can remove mold lines just fine, it's just those damned parts were the bits were anchored to the sprue. I can't make that area look nice as much as I try. Flat surfaces are the worst...

And yes, I use the 45 degree scrape method. Anyone have any more tips?

Get some standing pads and sand those attachment points away, or try to cut them flush to the surface with a exacto blade.

Standing pads? what are those?

He meant "Sanding Pads".

45-degree scrape method? Are you using a knife for everything? That can certainly stress the plastic components.

Perhaps you could explain what you're actually doing?

The attachment points shouldn't be damaging the model unless you're carving them off the sprue with a blade or something. Clip your models out, file down the attachment points and file/knife-edge your mold lines.

what I'm doing is the following:

1) Cut from sprue using pliers give it a bit of a leeway in order to not "rip" a bit of the actual model, like this:


2) Cut it again, closer this time, getting something like this:


3) scrape it using an x-acto, at a 45 degree angle, so it's just scrapping it away and not actually cutting into it. This is when I usually end up with this:


The last picture doesn't look very flat but it is. There's just this little small bump about 0.1 mm high that never seems to go away. It just gets noticed during painting mostly because it's this small deformity in a flat area

Get yourself a small file set, it'll take care of 90% of those little nubs.

Lightly use a round file...

I just got me a locksmith file set for like 3 bucks at a local store and have yet to find any sprue scar I can't beat.

I don't get them...

I use cutters, I put pressure toward the model when they are around the sprue... I cut and then file and voila; the surface is flat.

Henners91 wrote:I don't get them...

I use cutters, I put pressure toward the model when they are around the sprue... I cut and then file and voila; the surface is flat.

What brand do you use? If I put mine too close I'll just rip off bits of the model.

Now that I think about it, having cutters that deform plastic while cutting seems like a really BAD IDEA Well, off to get some files... Is the gale force set of 12 ok or is it just overkill?

I don't know what I have

If you wanted I'd upload a picture...

Cut them off with cutters, not pliers!

I will either file or shave them off with my knife. If you are careful, you can cut into the plastic at a very shallow angle (i.e. almost parallel to the surface) and gently shave off the raised nubs.

i just use some cheap low abrasive sand paper,this takes away the offending sprue part without marking the rest of the mini.

They bother me too. I have Gale Force Nine Flush Cutters and a Diamond Expert Micro Files Set in the post; hopefully they should help to sort this out somewhat.

i just use a good pair of cutters and a hobbie knife, comes up alright for me. i also have a set of small files just incase

Oh my... is this mistake as elementary as just not using *cutters*?

Typical diagonal cutters simply aren't meant for removing plastic models from the sprue. They can pinch through 16g wire just fine, thanks to stress hardening and a thin diameter, but the thicker and more elastic plastic gets pinched and stretched, instead of cut, which results in those jagged white tears where you wanted a flush cut. Either get some quality flush-cutters (just got a $10 pair and man, are they better than the nail clippers/diagonal cutters/end nippers I had on hand) or break out the files/sandpaper.

I actually prefer the finish that knife scraping gives to a sanded surface, so when I had nubs to contend with, I'd use files to take down any particularly rough offenders, then I'd smooth the surface with a light scraping.

Yeah, I hear you. My CSM shoulder pads suffer horribly. I trim them without cutting them off. Hard to explain. don't clip them close to the piece. Then just knife away the whole chunk of sprue.

I used to twist my shoulderpads... but that's a bad habit.

You can cut them nicely with a proper set of cutters and some files.

I just use a good set of side cutters (tungsten edge for cutting steel wire - even steel wound guitar string doesn't bother them) and finish with my x-acto and an emery nail board.

I clip 'em off the sprue like Crushy, but also use my x-acto and cutting mat to get closer before buffing with the emery board.

use model railroading railsnips...they creat a flat surface and the cutting part of the cutters is the edge, unlike wire cutters which it appears like your using in the pic you attached, and use a file, they can be found in most hobby stores, and are cheap, less than $1 US

also: is it bad that i use the twist and pull method for removing things from sprue?

Its not good or bad per se, i do it alot more than id like to but never have problems. i try to avoid it as much as i can though

I use emery boards - the type for womens nails.
Basically it's wet & dry paper stuck to a piece of card.
As with files on plastic, use light strokes.
I get mine from my local co-op mini supermarket.

I had to look up that "Gale Force Cutters" that the OP was talking about, and now I see why I've never heard of them. Just...no I won't comment on it.

Anyway it appears that everyone here is telling you to keep doing what you already are and that doesn't seem to be working for you so here is my suggestion:
http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00945667000P?vName=Hand+Tools&cName=Cutting+%26+Finishing+Tools&sName=Cutters+%26+Snips&prdNo=12&blockNo=12&blockType=L12
Honestly don't worry about the price, this is the only set you'll need to buy for a LONG time.

A good cutter to use is a "cuticle cutter" (thats the bit of skin that covers the beginning of the finger nail).
They are pretty cheap, cut right through sprue, and also have a sharp enough blade (designed to snip away skin) that you can use the as a flash remover.

ComputerGeek01 wrote:I had to look up that "Gale Force Cutters" that the OP was talking about, and now I see why I've never heard of them. Just...no I won't comment on it.

Anyway it appears that everyone here is telling you to keep doing what you already are and that doesn't seem to be working for you so here is my suggestion:
http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00945667000P?vName=Hand+Tools&cName=Cutting+%26+Finishing+Tools&sName=Cutters+%26+Snips&prdNo=12&blockNo=12&blockType=L12
Honestly don't worry about the price, this is the only set you'll need to buy for a LONG time.

I actually have one of those but I can't use them to cut most sprues. They're too bulky.

dkellyj wrote:A good cutter to use is a "cuticle cutter"

Thats what I use as well. Toenail clippers for cleanup, especially on flat surfaces. The way the angles work out, its like doing the 45 degree scraping method twice, using a machine to do it perfectly every time.
Remember, with files it is easy to go overboard as well. Instead of a raised lump you'll get a sunken pit. Catches any washes in a nice pool.