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What do you consider the best bases in terms of looks and playability?
Lipped Display Style
Plain Round
Square
Other Shape (please post)

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Made in us
Brainy Zoanthrope




Oh, here and there.

I'm trying to get a handle on what the community feels are the best wargaming bases.

Do you prefer the round lipped display style (Warmachine, Malifaux) or the plain round ones (Warhammer, etc)

This is for a game I'm currently developing and playtesting. I have hexagonal bases now, with 3 front facings, 2 quarter flanks(small penalty) and 1 Flank side (big penalty) on the rear. I'm concerned with whether this is too complex. Not that complexity is bad, just that simplicity often wins out over unnecessary complications. It is worth note, though, that it is a skirmish scale game, with few (>12) models per side.

Anyway, thanks for the help!

NEED COMMISSION ARTWORK FOR MY MINIATURE GAME! PM ME FOR DETAILS. That is all.
 
   
Made in us
Deranged Necron Destroyer





Northern Virginia, USA.

I don't like the lipped display as much because it lacks hard edges giving it a soft feel and making it more cartoony.


malfred wrote:Buy what you like.

Paint what you love.
 
   
Made in us
Lord of the Fleet





Texas

I like square/rectangle bases. Better for bunching up a regiment. While it doesnt look as good for a skirmish game, it works great for epic scaled or anything before 1900

(not mine)

[Thumb - percyandclifford.jpg]

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/12/28 19:08:22


 
   
Made in us
Brainy Zoanthrope




Oh, here and there.

Fair enough.

I agree; round is more epic. Especially for skirmish. But the added realism of different facings for close combat, etc, seems perfect. It adds tactical flexibility and constraints to both sides in a battle.

Would hexes be annoying to deal with?

NEED COMMISSION ARTWORK FOR MY MINIATURE GAME! PM ME FOR DETAILS. That is all.
 
   
Made in gb
Lord Commander in a Plush Chair





Beijing

Hexes are very much a thing I associate with the past. There was a time when they were everywhere, now unless you specifically need the figures to be used on a hex-map I wouldn't bother.
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





I think hex would be fine, but I would split it so you have two front faces, two side faces and two rear faces. This also allows you to pack figures into ranks and the base forms a definate indication of facing.
   
Made in us
Brainy Zoanthrope




Oh, here and there.

I forgot about older games relying on hexes. Maybe I'll just stick with regular basing. Hm.

More the consider.

I like the idea of hexes, i just need to pick something the majority will like. I could go with squares, because thats more familiar, but there are less facings. Obviously.

Thanks, everybody!

NEED COMMISSION ARTWORK FOR MY MINIATURE GAME! PM ME FOR DETAILS. That is all.
 
   
Made in gb
Lord of the Fleet






Your game mechanics should be more important than the look of the base.

If the game requires those facings to be measured then a hex base is the most sensible.
   
Made in us
Brigadier General






Chicago

If you plan to release figures with your game the hexes might be ok. Even though they are not the most common, they are great if your game has facing and arcs in 60 degree increments.

However, if you're game is going to be for use with any figures I'd go with round bases as they are fairly standard.

As for the difference between lipped 30mm privateer style and traditional slant sided 25mm slottas, that's entirely up to you, though if you're making figures specifically for the game, the 30mm lipped bases have a rather heroic look to them.

If you decide to go with round bases, but you are not making your own figures, it might not matter what size or style of round base you use and it's probably better not to specify.

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My Project Log, mostly revolving around custom "Toybashed" terrain.
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Made in gb
Blood-Drenched Death Company Marine






The only thing is that dreadnoughts should have their axis marked a bit better... in my expericne a dread's front is about 200 degrees wide, his sides 70 each and his back about 20!
   
Made in us
Brainy Zoanthrope




Oh, here and there.

Eilif wrote:If you plan to release figures with your game the hexes might be ok. Even though they are not the most common, they are great if your game has facing and arcs in 60 degree increments.

However, if you're game is going to be for use with any figures I'd go with round bases as they are fairly standard.

As for the difference between lipped 30mm privateer style and traditional slant sided 25mm slottas, that's entirely up to you, though if you're making figures specifically for the game, the 30mm lipped bases have a rather heroic look to them.

If you decide to go with round bases, but you are not making your own figures, it might not matter what size or style of round base you use and it's probably better not to specify.


Yeah, they'll be custom miniatures.

I think I'll playtest it with hexes, as I like the mechanics that go with it, and if I dont like it I'll switch to round bases.

NEED COMMISSION ARTWORK FOR MY MINIATURE GAME! PM ME FOR DETAILS. That is all.
 
   
Made in us
Hardened Veteran Guardsman





Mississippi

not to be a turd, but ">" means greater than, like >12 is more than a dozen. I think in the context you meant <12. Just throwin' that out there to clairify.

Since you won't be using alot of figs, squares aren't needed to stack them in close. Hexes can be flush for close combat and easily determine side and rear facing. Round bases are just for looks and only hurt close combat. Warmachine makes you draw a line on them to determine front and back, which works, but if you want clearly defined sides, go with hexes.

Ultimately, as others have stated, mechanics should dictate primarily. And always leave less for the gamers to "assume."

A gamer I am. Game I must.

Its not right this thread was closed.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/4110/228875.page 
   
Made in us
Chalice-Wielding Sanguinary High Priest





Arlington TX, but want to be back in Seattle WA

I like the lipped bases, but I dont want to spend the extra money to incorporate them into a 40k army

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