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Im considering getting all three off the mud powders for my death korps , but have no idea how its works and i did'nt really understand forge world's guide .

So , any tips , ideas ?

Check out the two weathering tutorials on the following page:
http://www.secretweaponminiatures.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=3

Also, before you buy, try going to your local art supply/hobby shop and getting some colored pastels. Grind them down really fine and you've got basically the exact same material, but without the shipping. I got a book for X-mas that used them not just for normal weathering, but also explained how to use White pastels to make a decent looking field expediant winter paint job (you know, like the temporary paint jobs used in WWII.)

It wont .. like fall off , will it ?

You'll have to seal the model with some kind of varnish when you're done or yes it will fall, or be rubbed, off.

Depends, and the guy expalins in the tutorials. According to him the "painted on" portions like with the rusty tank tutorial probably need some kind of sealant. The "Dirt in the cracks" portions will more-or-less hold up (might need sometouching up every year or so) as long as you don't leave your tanks out in the rain or something.

Damn .. Any idea what varnish ?

Spray matt varnish like Dullcote.
Brush-on tends to just move the powders away.

Artist pastel chalks have been used for years for the same effects. I recall an article in SF modeller back in the 80s that used them for dirtying up an X-wing and a Space:1999 Eagle transporter.

Hmm ... might just drybrush some stuff on the treads .. would be easier and the sides of the tanks

Dullcote works perfectly, it'll last forever and the spray isn't powerful enough to blow your hard work all over the room.

I just finished a tour into the world of powders: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/339468.page

You'll get a completely different result depending on if use the powders dry or if you mix them with 'white spirits'.
The wet variant will get down into the cracks and crevices and just generally mud/dust up any surface it lands on whereas dry application tends to fall off easier and is more difficult to get in place, at least it was for me.

I used wet powders for all the light grey dust and the rusted portions on the hull and the tracks and dry powder around the exhaust ports to simulate soot dusting. It doesn't really show on the photos but overall I got the feeling that the wet application was somewhat easier to handle.

I use Vallejo's dull varnish to seal all my models. It's hard as nails and really dull. I've used something like seven coats on my sky shield since we use it to roll dice on and you can't tell it's been coated.

Just be careful on the amount of powder you use, you have to let them dry before you can see the effect, which is radically different from when it's wet. Fortunately you can use water to dilute/lift the powders from the surface if you fell you've gone overboard (I did that quite a few times).

It's a big difference from paint and the results are as well.

Good luck!

Another shout for powders. I've got the forge world powders, they are worth getting and are easy to use.

I use MIG pigment fixer to seal the pigments, just dab a bit on the powder and let the powder soak the fixer in.
I went to a model show with forge world and had a lesson with one of the guys that did the masterclass book, he said you can use white spirit and matt varnish to seal them.

That said, get them if you can or any other equivilant powder, they are really effective, as mentioned though you have to let whatever you use dry.

Thanks , Leroy