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Wow, I have to say I am VERY disappointed with this product. A brand new bottle, freshly opened, acts just like 2 year old GW plastic glue. Every time I pulled the tip from the model, a long strand of glue would come with it, leaving my model and hands a mess. There is no pokey thing in the top either, so the nozzle will clog between uses. I however, threw mine away after 5 minutes of use, so won't have to worry about next time... What are your thoughts?

elmers

redguardsman wrote:elmers

you sir, are my hero <(o.O<

redguardsman wrote:elmers

For assembling models?!?! If that seriously works....

I think throwing it away was rather extreme, but I'd have to agree - sticking with GW glue from now on.

My middle name is extreme

Wouldn't know about the army painter, but the GW gunge in a bottle is worse than the old testors tube I started with when I was 11.

Have only used Revell Contacta for plastics for the last 20 years.
Whether it was the Professional bottle or just contacta in the jar with little brush. Haven't had any issues with it at all.

(i keep a short length of 8amp fusewire down the nozzle to clear it).

Oh, and the Revell stuff is cheaper than GW and lasts longer. Doesn't EVER thicken up into gunge. I had one bottle for 4 years before I emptied it.

chromedog wrote:Wouldn't know about the army painter, but the GW gunge in a bottle is worse than the old testors tube I started with when I was 11.

Have only used Revell Contacta for plastics for the last 20 years.
Whether it was the Professional bottle or just contacta in the jar with little brush. Haven't had any issues with it at all.

(i keep a short length of 8amp fusewire down the nozzle to clear it).

Oh, and the Revell stuff is cheaper than GW and lasts longer. Doesn't EVER thicken up into gunge. I had one bottle for 4 years before I emptied it.

I'm heading to my hobby shop this weekend to pick some up. Thanks for the tip!

chromedog wrote:Wouldn't know about the army painter, but the GW gunge in a bottle is worse than the old testors tube I started with when I was 11.

Have only used Revell Contacta for plastics for the last 20 years.
Whether it was the Professional bottle or just contacta in the jar with little brush. Haven't had any issues with it at all.

(i keep a short length of 8amp fusewire down the nozzle to clear it).

Oh, and the Revell stuff is cheaper than GW and lasts longer. Doesn't EVER thicken up into gunge. I had one bottle for 4 years before I emptied it.

have the changed the recipe or mixture for it where you're at?? Here in Germany, i picked up a bottle of contacta a few months ago, and it was absolute garbage. No matter how much i mixed the glue inside the bottle, it just would NOT set at all. Couldnt glue a thing with the stuff, so now i just use Loctite on everything.

Mine is the same formulation it has always been, the 1% toluene v/v solution.

I understand the EU is getting tough on certain solvents due to their propensity to give Californian rats cancer.

Toluene was the solvent carrier in Testors Dullcote also - it got reformulated.

You don't need to mix the glue inside the bottle.
You just need to put a small amount on both surfaces and press them together (or in the case of the bottle with nozzle, drizzle a small amount in the gap between them and do the same.

If it takes longer than 30 seconds you have used too much.

By all means, though, continue to use superglue on plastic models. It just makes ripping them apart (when we buy them second hand because their former owners have moved onto the next shiny) so much easier.

I prefer superglue, except when gluing legs to bases. I will keep this in mind.

This stuff I have used for the best part of 10 years. Brilliant stuff.

http://www.emodels.co.uk/plastic-kits/humbrol-28ml-liquid-poly-cement-glue-with-brush-2500-p-14243.html

I use the Army Painter stuff as it is very glubby and therefore suitable for gluing on patches of static grass.

I still miss the old bottle-and-brush Citadel cement.

I use the GF9 hobby glue, most reliable glue I have used to date, never had any problems with it.

On plastic mini's its Revell all the way for me! especially with its precision nozzle applicator! For metals i use Gale force 9 superglue, works fantastically well with their Repid Cure spray! metals glue'd fast in 10 seconds!!! def wouldnt go back! ^_^

I just use Testor's Plastic Cement (the non-toxic kind). They sell precision applicators, or you can use the wider nozzle (which is actually good for some things). Plus, it doesn't have a nasty chemical smell, but smells like oranges, which is nice when you are assembling a lot of stuff at once.

Butch

MunkeyKungFu wrote:This stuff I have used for the best part of 10 years. Brilliant stuff.

http://www.emodels.co.uk/plastic-kits/humbrol-28ml-liquid-poly-cement-glue-with-brush-2500-p-14243.html

Do you actually buy it from that webstore? I wouldn't trust any store that can't proof-read or spell check their product descriptions

I use Testors plastic cement that is water thin. It's perfect.

I use Loctite SUPER GEL! *said in heroic voice with echo*
What I noticed with this was if you put the model that has been glued together in some PURPLE POWER! *said in heroic voice with echo* It seems to make it easier to take the model apart, but Im thinking about moving on to trying different super glues.

I keep having to post about this product. Seriously, guys, stop messing around with inferior stuff from other companies.

instant WIN!

http://www.gf9.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=265

never used it. I dont understand why people would buy glue from companies that dont specialize in the product. The best superglue I have used is Jet. It can be found at most hobby stores and they have a variety of types to choose from. Furthermore, you can buy small bottles of the stuff, that way if complications arise you can just buy another small bottle

Element206 wrote:never used it. I dont understand why people would buy glue from companies that dont specialize in the product. The best superglue I have used is Jet. It can be found at most hobby stores and they have a variety of types to choose from. Furthermore, you can buy small bottles of the stuff, that way if complications arise you can just buy another small bottle

Never used what?

Never used Army Painter glue me think

I use loctite gel with control output thing, really nice
I glued Logan in 3 minutes or so

I use Zap CA super glue thin and thick. They also make a plastic glue but i dont use it. Loctite is great too. They make a plastic glue with an activator. For plastics I use Plastructs Plasticweld brush on glue. Strong stuff so be careful.

Broadside wrote:Never used what?

Army Painter Plastic Glue