Switch Theme:

how can I remove superglued plastic components?  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Sneaky Striking Scorpion





Lebanon, PA

Hi. I've got a problem. My first set of Eldar DA's I'd gotten came only on the sprue (no pics), so when I assembled them the right arm was holding the gun pointing out and the left arm just looked silly and was also sticking out or slightly across the abdomen. Since I acquired another set of DA's that had already been assembled, it dawned on me that the left arm is supposed to SUPPORT the weapon. I'd like to correct the problem before I prime & paint them, and have managed to remove a few of the arms, but the majority are glued on really solidly. Does anyone have any advice as to how to weaken the bond so that I can get the arms off so that they can be repositioned? I thought I'd heard about someone boiling the minis and then putting them in ice-cold water right away, and then getting plastic components off that way - but I'm worried I'll turn my DA guys into limp noodles if I do this. Any recommendations are welcome - thanks in advance!
[Thumb - DSCN0096.JPG]


-Makhoy

current Eldar stats: 9-4-15
check out my Eldar P&M blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/346372.page 
   
Made in us
Boom! Leman Russ Commander





Princeton, WV

Well if it is superglue, you can put them in the freezer for an hour and they should snap right off. If it is plasticglue then the only choice is the break it off.

   
Made in us
Sneaky Striking Scorpion





Lebanon, PA

Dude, you're FAST! Thank you very much for the quick suggestion - I'll try it this afternoon. And yes, it was superglue.

-Makhoy

current Eldar stats: 9-4-15
check out my Eldar P&M blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/346372.page 
   
Made in gb
Monstrous Master Moulder





Essex,, England

Trouble is that can weaken the plastic, you are in danger of braking the conponent, particularly if it is spindly, what I prefer to do is get some clippers, line them up along the joint, and give it a quick 'jerk' snip, pinging the big clean off with minimal damage or residue, imo, this works better than the freezer method


 
   
Made in ca
Dour Wolf Priest with Iron Wolf Amulet






Canada

I dunno how securely you put the arms on, but usually I'll take pliers and try to pry them off unless I think it's gonna break the model. Otherwise, I'll take a pair of scissors and try to work it into the joint, and then "push" it out.

Dunno if there's an easier/safer method though.

   
Made in us
Sneaky Striking Scorpion





Lebanon, PA

Andilus - they were glued on REALLY secure - I tried wiggling the arms close to the bases to weaken the bond, and managed to get around 4 of the arms off that way (have 20 to do). I think that the glue was both on the joint of the arm and under the armour overlying the shoulder - so there's a good bit of glue in them! Thanks for the suggestion.

-Makhoy

current Eldar stats: 9-4-15
check out my Eldar P&M blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/346372.page 
   
Made in gb
Monstrous Master Moulder





Essex,, England

I swear by my method! Hasn't failed me yet


 
   
Made in us
Sneaky Striking Scorpion





Lebanon, PA

Winner - I've got a small pair of snips that may fit under the shoulder armour, will try your method as well! I've got 8 DA's left with one or both arms still attached, so I'll be able to try everyone's suggestions and see which works best for me.

-Makhoy

current Eldar stats: 9-4-15
check out my Eldar P&M blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/346372.page 
   
Made in us
Krazy Grot Kutta Driva





United States

You can sometimes put a razor knife to the joint and apply a nice even pressure to get the blade into the join and then give it a twist to pop the part off.

Freezer works though, recommended method by me as well.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2011/02/18 16:58:45


Poor orks... Why can't they be the good guys for once?
All they've ever really wanted is whatever you have...
 
   
Made in us
Sneaky Striking Scorpion





You can use nail polish remover to dissolve superglue. It will also dissolve some plastics, so try it on a piece of scrap before using it on your models...

Also use it in a ventilated area.

agnosto wrote: To the closet, batman and don't forget the feather duster!



 
   
Made in us
Sneaky Striking Scorpion





Lebanon, PA

I'd heard about the nail polish remover, but know it will dissolve the model details. I'd rather not try that one. If it was in a visible location, I'd be willing to give it a go, but since it's in the shoulder I'd rather not! Thanks anyway.

-Makhoy

current Eldar stats: 9-4-15
check out my Eldar P&M blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/346372.page 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





Freezer, gentle wiggle, freezer, gentle wiggle.
   
Made in us
[DCM]
Tilter at Windmills






Manchester, NH

I can vouch for the freezer method; I've had models spontaneously pop their glue bonds just sitting in the trunk of my car this winter, so a freezer should certainly be cold enough!

Adepticon 2015: Team Tourney Best Imperial Team- Team Ironguts, Adepticon 2014: Team Tourney 6th/120, Best Imperial Team- Cold Steel Mercs 2, 40k Championship Qualifier ~25/226
More 2010-2014 GT/Major RTT Record (W/L/D) -- CSM: 78-20-9 // SW: 8-1-2 (Golden Ticket with SW), BA: 29-9-4 6th Ed GT & RTT Record (W/L/D) -- CSM: 36-12-2 // BA: 11-4-1 // SW: 1-1-1
DT:70S++++G(FAQ)M++B++I+Pw40k99#+D+++A+++/sWD105R+++T(T)DM+++++
A better way to score Sportsmanship in tournaments
The 40K Rulebook & Codex FAQs. You should have these bookmarked if you play this game.
The Dakka Dakka Forum Rules You agreed to abide by these when you signed up.

Maelstrom's Edge! 
   
Made in ar
Veteran Wolf Guard Squad Leader





Princedom of Buenos Aires

Wait a minute there!

Avoid aceteone at all costs! They'll eat your plastics like a Tyranid eats biomass D=

Stick to the freezer and hobby knife.

   
Made in pt
Sinewy Scourge





Porto

Failing that, Nail Polish remover, as was said; use an acetone free or "soft" one.

I've tried one from a pharmacy that cost me 4€ and dissolved plastics, and tried another one from a supermarket that cost me 1€ for roughly the same and turned superglue into a slosh to be removed with an x-acto.

Otherwise, it will just ruin your plastic. Use some test models, though. Or plastic from the sprues to see if it eats through.

Good luck!

anonymous @ best Warhammer Miniature wrote:i vote the choas dwarf lord as they are the greatest dwarfs n should get there own codex


 
   
Made in au
Anti-Armour Swiss Guard






Newcastle, OZ

looks like the DA is collecting 'protection'.

Pay me the money and I might not shoot you.

Freezing works, but you have to ensure that it only breaks where you want it to (thin styrene also tends to be brittle when cold.)

I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.

That is not dead which can eternal lie ...

... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
 
   
Made in us
Sneaky Striking Scorpion





Lebanon, PA

chromedog - be careful! Once I've got their arms on right, they should be pretty formidable! Thanks for your vote on method.

-Makhoy

current Eldar stats: 9-4-15
check out my Eldar P&M blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/346372.page 
   
Made in ar
Veteran Wolf Guard Squad Leader





Princedom of Buenos Aires

chromedog wrote:looks like the DA is collecting 'protection'.

Pay me the money and I might not shoot you.


The one on the right, for the one on the left looks too tempted by Slaanesh whisperings xD

   
Made in us
Sneaky Striking Scorpion





Lebanon, PA

OK, here's an update. Had the guys in the freezer for an hour, only got 2 more arms off (actually have a unit of Guardians that I've got to reposition arms on as well). Turns out that the cold makes the plastic more brittle as well, and two arms are ready to break off at the elbows because of the pressure. Lots of shoulder armour buggered up as well because of this - snippers didn't help at ALL, nor did the Xacto knife. Looked for nail polish remover w/o acetone, couldn't find any. Next step is going to be to leave them in freezer overnight and try to find some pliers to wiggle the arms off with tomorrow - but my concern is for the damage they'll do to the arms.

Question for all readers - better to have the arms buggered up and positioned properly for painting, or to leave them as they are so that the details aren't messed up for painting? I KNOW that I used SuperGlue and not a plastic glue. From now on I'm not going to use as much of it!!! Grrrrrr.

-Makhoy

current Eldar stats: 9-4-15
check out my Eldar P&M blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/346372.page 
   
Made in ar
Veteran Wolf Guard Squad Leader





Princedom of Buenos Aires

It's all relative. I used to paint the arms before I glued them, but then, as I'm not a good painter, it makes little difference if I glue them first,. and saves me time.

   
Made in gb
Monstrous Master Moulder





Essex,, England

Still haven't used my method!. Just get the clippers into the joint, and apply a little pressure, it pops clean off


 
   
Made in us
Sneaky Striking Scorpion





Lebanon, PA

winnertakesall wrote:Still haven't used my method!. Just get the clippers into the joint, and apply a little pressure, it pops clean off


I DID try your method, and it didn't work for me! Even with the guys frozen! :-(


Automatically Appended Next Post:
OK - FINALLY have the arms off of my DA's! Final working solution was: freeze the dudes overnight, and then I put them in hot water (as hot as my hand could stand it) for ~10 minutes, and then I used the nippers to dig into the shoulder joints and pry them out. I've got some glueing to do of some thumbs and some of the pod/fin things that stick up from the back shoulder, and only one arm snapped in mid upper arm - that won't look too pretty, but at least they're APART!!!!! Hopefully this thread will help anyone else who buggered up their minis when assembling them. Thanks to all who gave suggestions, as I think the final solution was a little bit of everyone's suggestions.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2011/02/19 14:50:44


-Makhoy

current Eldar stats: 9-4-15
check out my Eldar P&M blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/346372.page 
   
Made in gb
Monstrous Master Moulder





Essex,, England

Really? that works every time I nhave tried it, plastic glue, super glue, everything, takes the joint off. Did you use a lot of glue?


 
   
Made in us
Sneaky Striking Scorpion





Lebanon, PA

Yes, I had - but from now on, I'm NOT using too much!

-Makhoy

current Eldar stats: 9-4-15
check out my Eldar P&M blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/346372.page 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: