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I've been using the Citadel Super Glue Thin and the Games Workshop Plastic glue. Prior to this I was using 'LOCTITE Super Glue Goof Proof. I'm using the Citadel and GW stuff because the game store thats close to me only sells that stuff. If I was shopping at the old store I used to go to up in the bay area I would have had more choices.

The LOCTITE was good because I had a bit of control with how much was used. The Citadel super glue has been kind of okay... it just stinks that the brush for it doesn't go any deeper into the bottle unless you twist it closed for when its mostly run out. The GW Plastic glue I probably will continue to use. Somehow I get good control with that too.

Are there any other bonders/glues that I should try out? I'm mostly working with plastic models right now but I have some upcoming projects that will involve metal models/pieces (EX: Hellhound turret, Terminator Chaplain, Commissar Yorick).

It doesn't really matter with the plastic glue IMO, just make sure that its the kind that will actually fuse the plastic together. I use either the citadel glue or testors plastic weld. Metal wise, the loctite is the best stuff I've found, normally I just buy it at home depot or rona or whatever hardware store is in the area

orkboy232 wrote:It doesn't really matter with the plastic glue IMO, just make sure that its the kind that will actually fuse the plastic together. I use either the citadel glue or testors plastic weld. Metal wise, the loctite is the best stuff I've found, normally I just buy it at home depot or rona or whatever hardware store is in the area

cool beans... I'll check the local home depot, ace, or loews to see what they have.

The Testor's Plastic glue in the black triangle bottle is the best and easiest to find.

For Superglue, I swear by Gorilla Brand Superglue. Great stuff and much stronger than most other glues.

I too am fond of Testor's plastic glues, never really had a problem with them at all.
As for superglue... well thats a different story, i still havent found one that makes me happy.

I have only tried both GW and Tamiya Plastic glue/cement so i cannot exactly decide which is better

as for super glue
Gel Loctite with control FTW, it doesn't clog that fast, it's gel so it's way more controllable and won't flow everywhere at once, and Loctite made this control mechanism where it flows by drops, nice thing really

I use Revell's Contacta liquid polycement for plastics (it's more common here than Testors brand).

Superglues - I use zap medium. No accelerant.
It's usually humid enough here that JUST atmospheric moisture is enough to accelerate the bond.

Both are available at my local model store, alongside plasticard, balsa wood, brass and aluminium rod and paints.

I generally use Zap A Gap. The medium viscosity is generally pretty good, and the new applicator is really nice. They also make a gel in small tubes that's very good for heavier joints and for rougher materials.

I would STRONGLY suggest using whichever glue gives you the highest percent chance for something getting stuck to your fingers in a humorous manner so that you can tell us about it in the next "What's your funniest modeling accident?" thread.


King Ghidorah

Ghidorah wrote:I would STRONGLY suggest using whichever glue gives you the highest percent chance for something getting stuck to your fingers in a humorous manner so that you can tell us about it in the next "What's your funniest modeling accident?" thread.


King Ghidorah

haha I'll at least make sure its awesome stuff like a Lascannon or powerfist.

I use Testors Model master glue for plastics with great success.

I've taken to using JB Weld for metals if I never want to take them apart.

I use Liquid nails for basing glue instead of PVA glue.

Gel lictite superglue. Doesn't get blocked, no gluing yourself, no sudden massive spurt of glue. It wins. Ultra win. End of.

I would say gorrila glue brand super glue. You get 20g for about 1.5x the price of citadel super glue (gw glue 5g). It is good quality and doesnt dry out instantly if you accidently leave the cap off (zap a gap and loctite are really quick to dry out).