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Made in us
Irked Blood Angel Scout with Combat Knife






I've been looking into getting some FW models. I keep seeing the word "resin" to describe the models. "Resin, resin, resin." Over and over again. Is resin really that different than the usual plastic?

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Blood-Raging Khorne Berserker





London

Resin is a completely different material. It's capable of holding more detail than plastic, and it's easier to cast.

On the other hand, it's more brittle, can only be glued with Super Glue (rather than plastic glue) and is lighter.

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Ultramarine Master with Gauntlets of Macragge





Boston, MA

Also, resin needs to be washed before any paint is applied - paint simply won't stick until you've washed the mold release agent off. It's also very heavy.

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Anti-Armour Swiss Guard






Newcastle, OZ

Resin itself doesn't need to be washed.

Many casts, however, do have a mould release agent which does need to be removed first before painting (this is where the washing comes in).

You can't use plastic glues on it, but there is more than JUST superglues that will work. Epoxy adhesives work fine (araldites).

Resin itself has a density around the same as plastic.
Resin CASTS can, however be solid, and this is what makes them heavier (plastic models are hollow).

It is used for models because you can cast with it like metals, and it retains detail like metals, but is lighter - like plastics - but unlike plastics, the mould creation costs are closer to those of metal moulds.

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Made in au
Perturbed Blood Angel Tactical Marine





Also resin can warp slightly in warmer places (eg. Australia) but it is simple enough to straighten out again, just by placing it in some hot water for approx 1min then gently straighten out

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Widowmaker



Perth, WA, australia

then should i order my FW models during the winter?
you know for it to avoid warping?

I heard that warping only occurs in hugeass models. I was Looking into buying FW battlesuit and BA and SW acessories

So far
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750 point of
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Jovial Plaguebearer of Nurgle






I don't think it'll warp in normal temperatures, only certain pieces that are supporting a lot of weight (like the legs on the giant Tyranid gribbler) will give you any issues.
   
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Possessed Khorne Marine Covered in Spikes





The Royal Tunbridge Wells

yes, now that is one devil of a model to put together, mine required a brass rod in its belly and pins in its legs. but resin isn't as hard as people say it is, if you wash it properly, and wear a dust mask, it is similar to building a metal kit

 
   
Made in se
Fighter Pilot





Brother SRM wrote: It's also very heavy.


Sure about this? I only own two FW models (Thunderbolt and Tomb Stalker) but both are very light, lighter than similar models (size-wise) made from GW plastic. Maybe I've just gotten a suspect batch of light resin or FW have lighter resin than most manufacturers



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Anti-Armour Swiss Guard






Newcastle, OZ

Weight of resin will depend on a number of factors.

Some resins will weigh more, some weigh less.
Some casters will use filler and less resin - this also adds weight.

Resin models will often be solid casts, so this means they will generally weigh more than a similar sized plastic model kit.

I've got resincast 28mm motorcycles that are of a simiar size to the GW plastic scout bikers. They weigh about the same.
The plastic kit is a little larger but hollow.

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That is not dead which can eternal lie ...

... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
 
   
Made in us
Guardsman with Flashlight






resin warping is due to not being completely cooled before moving or because they cooled and warped to one side or another. It usually has nothing to do with climate unless youre in a heat wave and the resin is melting (which would give you alot mroe to worry about )
   
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Painting Within the Lines





In your cellar...waiting...watching

The only things to keep in mind are as said above

-usually quite a bit of clean up to be one, (flash and imperfections)
-can need a tiny bit of retouching where an airbubble has popped up (no biggy)
-any warped parts can be reshaped by sticking under hot water, reshaping, then cold water to reset
-wash all the parts thoroughly before assembling/painting
-i'd prime ALWAYS as paint tends not to like resin as much (on the smoother surfaces anyway)
-use super glue or epoxy to assemble (for larger parts id advise green stuff & superglue to make it that bit tougher)

Then happy modelling lol

Dan

edited for forgetting things lol

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2011/03/03 13:26:46


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Made in gb
Hardened Veteran Guardsman




Falkirk, Scotland

D.Smith wrote:The only things to keep in mind are as said above

-usually quite a bit of clean up to be one, (flash and imperfections)
-can need a tiny bit of retouching where an airbubble has popped up (no biggy)
-any warped parts can be reshaped by sticking under hot water, reshaping, then cold water to reset
-wash all the parts thoroughly before assembling/painting
-i'd prime ALWAYS as paint tends not to like resin as much (on the smoother surfaces anyway)
-use super glue or epoxy to assemble (for larger parts id advise green stuff & superglue to make it that bit tougher)

Then happy modelling lol

Dan

edited for forgetting things lol


I just bought a whole load of Resin stuff from forge world, mainly IG Krieg Marines, I'm going to follow these steps as this is the first time using resin >.< I hope your little guide here really helps Now I need to buy some Green Stuff....

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Posts with Authority





South Carolina (upstate) USA

Retrias wrote:then should i order my FW models during the winter?
you know for it to avoid warping?

I heard that warping only occurs in hugeass models. I was Looking into buying FW battlesuit and BA and SW acessories


Warping may be the least of your worries. FW does nice models, but their quality is sketchy. Sometimes you get a very clean well cast model, sometimes its warped, full of pits/holes and just terrible. If your looking for something you can just slap together dont bother with FW. If you do order from them, be ready for the fact that you may get a product that needs a good deal of finishing/repair and will be a healthy project. If theres something you really like dont let that discourage you from ordering, but be ready for what you may get.

As far as working with resin in general, simply search online, there should be many sites that give good pointers.

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Painting Within the Lines





In your cellar...waiting...watching

Sevenups wrote:
D.Smith wrote:The only things to keep in mind are as said above

-usually quite a bit of clean up to be one, (flash and imperfections)
-can need a tiny bit of retouching where an airbubble has popped up (no biggy)
-any warped parts can be reshaped by sticking under hot water, reshaping, then cold water to reset
-wash all the parts thoroughly before assembling/painting
-i'd prime ALWAYS as paint tends not to like resin as much (on the smoother surfaces anyway)
-use super glue or epoxy to assemble (for larger parts id advise green stuff & superglue to make it that bit tougher)

Then happy modelling lol

Dan

edited for forgetting things lol


I just bought a whole load of Resin stuff from forge world, mainly IG Krieg Marines, I'm going to follow these steps as this is the first time using resin >.< I hope your little guide here really helps Now I need to buy some Green Stuff....


Hope it helps mkaes a big difference knowing roughly what you'll need as you can have things prepared in advance, making it more of a pleasure not digging around for things

Dan

1500 pts
My current diorama builds - http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/337437.page
DEUS VULT wrote:Nurgle... just wants to be loved.

Grey Templar wrote:Now a bigger question is, "Is Bill Gates the Emperor?"
 
   
Made in au
Crazed Spirit of the Defiler






Sorry, dumb question probably - but if Forgeworld sends out a terrible product - why not return it and get a decent cast?

 
   
Made in gb
Painting Within the Lines





In your cellar...waiting...watching

they will if its really bad, but sometimes it may be a part thats just slightly odd, eg, my DKOK commisar was perfect apart from the end of his sword which was bent slighlty, so its just a case of a minor fix and if your pre-prepared for it then it isnt a big issue

Dan

1500 pts
My current diorama builds - http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/337437.page
DEUS VULT wrote:Nurgle... just wants to be loved.

Grey Templar wrote:Now a bigger question is, "Is Bill Gates the Emperor?"
 
   
 
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