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I just got a Master G22 airbrush. It was a very cheap brush but i mainly wanted it for priming and basecoats. I have a question though. Its a dual action gravity feed and on the instructions it says press down for air and then pull back fro color atomization. The problem is that as soon as i push down paint comes out with the air. Is that suppose to happen? It works well for what i need, priming and basic color of my blood angels but I just have that one question.

Steve

No that isn't supposed to happen. Did you take it apart already once before you tried spraying?

It sounds to me like you didn't assemble it properly. Most likely that the needle is not all the way up into the nozzle tip.

I have the same brush... it works fine, though the seals are really crap. I've had to use beeswax on all of the seals/threads to keep it from leaking air.

Anyway, take it apart again, but this time make sure the needle is all the way in before you tighten the nut. Then try again.

i never took it apart actually. i will try what you said and let you know.

Thanks for the quick reply

steve

Also a cracked nozzle tip will do this... I know from experience.



Check out this site for cleaning and taking apart...

http://www.airbrushguru.com/how-to-rinse-gravity-feed-airbrush-between-colors.html
http://www.airbrushguru.com/how-to-rinse-gravity-feed-airbrush-after-spray-session.html

I took it apart and after 1 hour was able to get it back together and it worked correctly. Now i just got to figure out the details. I did have one problem. I was using some reaper master paint thinned with windex, thats what i read to use. It worked quite fine but towards the end of the paint in the cup it started to get dripping. Just wondering if that was the windex separating from the small amout of paint left. What paints are you running through it and what are you thinning it with.

steve

So far, I have only been using vallejo model air and golden airbrush paints. Do you have a moisture trap on your air line? Being in Florida, the extreme amount of humidity can cause lots of problems with airbrushing. I ended up getting a big compressor's moisture trap and it has been working great for me so far. Like you however, I am just starting out with airbrushing. I really should be using a low end brush to start out with instead of the higher end one I bought on a whim.

Guess we in the same boat kind of. I have some createx colors i bought, black red and white, and they work fine. I guess i have to just work it out as I go. I might not have mixed the reaper and windex well enough.

Hopefully tomorrow i will be able to throw some pics up of what i did. Its did put done a nice base coat for the my blood angels.

Norsehawk wrote:So far, I have only been using vallejo model air and golden airbrush paints. Do you have a moisture trap on your air line? Being in Florida, the extreme amount of humidity can cause lots of problems with airbrushing. I ended up getting a big compressor's moisture trap and it has been working great for me so far. Like you however, I am just starting out with airbrushing. I really should be using a low end brush to start out with instead of the higher end one I bought on a whim.

actually every good painter will agree that it's best to learn on a good brush and not on a cheap one.

That being said, cheap ones are fine if all you intend to do with it is base coat. the GW one being the exception as it's neither cheap or useful.

Lol aerethan is right.

@Steve - I know some youtube video encouraged people to use windex and now everyone is pushing it on the forums, but it is really not the best thinner for airbrushing. It works, as does Isopropyl Alcohol ...but a true AB medium is much much better.

Vallejo thinner will work, but what's even better is Liquitex (or Golden) Airbrush Medium, and you get a lot more for cheap. I'd say that now-a-days the bottle of Windex is probably more expensive. The mediums will serve the same purpose but will not evaporate as fast as Windex or Alcohol, making the experience a LOT easier with less headaches.

The only advantage I'd give windex, or alcohol is it doubles as a nice clean-up spray. For all my airbrushing I use Liquitex AB medium, but for cleaning I have a bottle with pre-mixed 'Isopropyl Alcohol 91%' (like from CVS) and water ...a 1:7 ratio.

Going to finish basecoating my blood angels tonight. I have 2 bottles left over from some acyrlic painting i was doing(portraits). Would either of these work better than windes. Both are golden brand. One is acyrlic flow release and the other if retarder. I think the flow release might help. I will try that out. I also bought a psi gaughe at lunch and when i checked the pressure i was shooting at aabout 25 psi. I am going to bring that down to about 18-20 and see how that handles. Also am not going to mix the paint in the pot tonight. Fortunately the createx red doesn't look that shabby for blood angels and that doesn't seem to need to be thinned before using.

steve

Well the flow release and retarder are totally different, but who knows they may help hah; I've never tried them.

This is what I'm talking about:
http://www.aswexpress.com/discount-art-supplies/airbrush-equipment/colors-mediums-and-supplies/liquitex.html
http://www.aswexpress.com/discount-art-supplies/airbrush-equipment/colors-mediums-and-supplies/golden.html

Strangely the smallest Golden they have listed is a Quart size.

Yeah 18-20 PSI is right where you want to be. This will also allow you to use thinner paints, and get closer to the model.

Finally - the createx red. I play Blood Angels also, and used the same paint (came with my compressor) on some terrain. Those AB artist paints look nice, and spray very easily, but they are very delicate. Even with lots of varnish they still wipe off easily... they just don't grip like GW for example.

For red... I think GW is fine, though I do love P3 Sanguine Base for shadows. I've poured all of mine into dropper bottles. My BA base coats are a 50:50 mix of Blood Red : Red Gore... it is a vibrant red. Of course everyone has their own recipe for red but I like mine dark with Blood Red as the highlight (and lightest) color rather than orange or pink.

I have been try to get away from games workshop paint but i still like the blood red. I ordered a bunch of dropper bottle to pour the paint into. I think the main thing i hate about gw is the bottle itself. Dropper bottles are just better. What ratio you using for thinning GW paint

I will pick up some of that medium this weekend btw

steve

Unfortunately with GW paints, likely thanks to the crappy bottles, each pot seems to be a different consistency from the next... so there is no perfect ratio. But typically it's between 5-10 to 1 (thinner to paint). I just try to get a 'skim milk' like consistency every time. Also why I use clear plastic cups to mix my paint before I pour it into the AB.

Great new issues. First I thinned my paints too much but i fixed that. I went to clean my brush for the night and after I rinsed it in the sink I screwed it back in to blow some cleaner through it. When I press down for the air it shoots air out then all the pressure goes away. Ugh this is a pain. Any idea what i can do?

steve

What do you mean all the pressure goes away? ...like the compressor says it is giving you less or just that no air seems to coming out of the airbrush? ...or do you hear air leaks when not depressing the trigger?

I had this issue when using a less than decent regulator, so I'd look at that as your first spot.

Track down air leaks piece by piece if you are losing pressure.

Its defientely blowing fine through the hose. When I connect the gun is when it happens. I will remove regulator and try it without that. It happened when I disconnected the air brush, disassembled and cleaned it and put back together

Do you hear air leaking though? ...even when you don't depress the trigger?

Sometimes cleaning the ab can remove some of the oil that keeps the threads sealed.

I think i stripped the needle chucking nut or needle chucking guide. The needle wont stay in play and slide to let the paint through. So when i tighten it at first it starts to spray but then the needle start to slide forward and closes where the paint goes through.

UGH

I just want to paint.

Hmm perhaps you have paint still in the nozzle, that will make the needle stick. This used to happen a lot with my masters before I really started cleaning the nozzle. That nut would be tough to strip, hopefully its not that.

I think its the nut. When I remove the needles and just have the nut and assembly on the needle I can't tighten it at all.

steve

Hmm I dunno Steve. Mine doesn't spin that much, and it doesn't nwed to be super tight either. can you maybe show us a photo?

I talked with the manufacturer and described the situation and how the threads look and he is send me a new pieces to try. He said that these are pretty basic/economical chinese made brushes so sometimes they just go bad. If that doesn't work I am sending every back for them to fix under warranty. I think I just stripped the thread by over tightening or by not putting the thread on correctly and the cheap steal just stripped.

steve