Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

how do you do that green effect? I know i've seen it in no quarter but I don't play Warmachine and didn't buy it at the time. if anyone has any link on how to do it or a tutorial I'd appreciate it. I want to use it on the boards of my hellions.

That's a bluish green in the creases followed with a drybrush right along the outer areas of the creases. The drybrush doesn't quite cover the white paint underneath and that creates the illusion of a glow.

Breotan wrote:That's a bluish green in the creases followed with a drybrush right along the outer areas of the creases. The drybrush doesn't quite cover the white paint underneath and that creates the illusion of a glow.

how do you drybrush an area that small with such little paint on other parts.

It's not drybrushed. The Privateer studio paints mostly with glazes and blending. There's a tutorial for that technique in the Retribution book.

wash-away wrote:

Breotan wrote:That's a bluish green in the creases followed with a drybrush right along the outer areas of the creases. The drybrush doesn't quite cover the white paint underneath and that creates the illusion of a glow.

how do you drybrush an area that small with such little paint on other parts.

Use a small brush and be careful? I have a small brush just for doing stuff like this. But I'm agreeing with the above as it looks more like a glaze. The drybrush method is easier though.
If I remember correctly they make a turquoise ink which is what they likely used with this.

A mix of green, blue, and pink, actually.

Wait, pink?

Yes, pink.

intresting, I have the red ink and its really nice for blood and things. I haven't needed to buy paint in a while I'll have to check out if they have turquoise.

is there a tutorial online for how to do it?

i wanna kno how 2 do the red glow effect on tank glass view holes


Automatically Appended Next Post:
wait.. are they view holes?

You mean lenses? As that's a fair bit different to this.

The previous Nids codex had a guide for this. It isn't just about the recesses.

Base coat. Water down the recess colour and apply to the recesses and surrounding area.

Layer up to your finished armour colour

Admittedly, that's for organics, but using a fluorescent paint to finish the recess would help.

wash-away wrote:

Breotan wrote:That's a bluish green in the creases followed with a drybrush right along the outer areas of the creases. The drybrush doesn't quite cover the white paint underneath and that creates the illusion of a glow.

how do you drybrush an area that small with such little paint on other parts.

You can't really. What you do is go back after with the main color and "repair" (also using drybrush technique) any areas that are covered by blue/green drybrush that shouldn't be. Also, you don't need a large drybrush. Smaller brushes can be used, even a normal brush that you don't really care about anymore can be used to do some small area drybrushing. I've used this technique to make "faded" symbols on my Necrons.

I find that drybrushed OSL ("object source lighting" - the term you should search for if you want tutorials for the glowing effect) tends to look... well, drybrushed. It's the quick and dirty method that works best (as drybrushing always does) on high texture, like plasma coils.

If you want it looking good, layers of glazes are where it's at. Thinned inks or paint diluted to the point of high translucency (thinning paint that far will likely require additives to keep the pigment properly distributed in the binder - luckily, there are glazing mediums designed to do just that (when I experimented, I made do with adding acrylic matte medium to reduce opacity and water for flow)), which allows the color underneath to be tinted, instead of covered.


hehe FAIL! - Sounds like you're talking about lenses. Plenty of tutorials on that floating around. Amazing lenses are an art, but it's not too tricky to get decent results. Hell, I've managed it.