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This is probably the millionth post asking how to strip models, but I can't find any on stripping metal models (well, not any that use substances from the US ) I have a large thing of simple green in my cupboards, but do I have to dilute it? I've got some scorps that are horribly over-painted from when I was just beginning, and I wanted to strip them. Just poor some into a container and scrub it off? HALP!

Alrighty, here's the gist of things, using my experience.

Simple Green - It sucks, takes too long for me.

Super Clean - It's awesome. If you leave your hands in it for an extended period of time you'll get a chemical burn though. I usually yank things out of non diluted super clean and throw it under the sink to get the chemicals off, then get to scrubbing. Works on Metal, plastic, and after a long enough period super glue. My first model ever, a leman russ battle tank, came apart completely after 3 days of soakage. 9 out of 10 models will completely strip and come apart, even nids, which are notorious for being god awful to strip and redo.

Acetone - If you have a metal model, and you want everything off of it, use this stuff. Every bit of plastic and superglue will melt off in a day or so. Use gloves, make sure your in a well ventilated room. It's pretty stout stuff.

If I absolutely CAN'T get something off, I hit it with some acetone.

Simple Green is great for metal models. Pour some straight Simple Green in a container and submerge the models over night. Scrub them with a toothbrush under running water and rinse them thoroughly. Let em dry and prime em!


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Simple Green is great for metal models. Pour some straight Simple Green in a container and submerge the models over night. Scrub them with a toothbrush under running water and rinse them thoroughly. Let em dry and prime em!

Oh, and it is completely non toxic unlike most of the other paint removal methods out there.

I second the Acetone suggestion. You can usually find it in the nail polish remover section of your local Wal*Mart or Target. Remember, METAL MODELS ONLY WITH ACETONE. Use Super Clean if you're planning on stripping plastic or resin.

I like using the foaming oven cleaner. Costs like $3 for a can of the el-cheapo stuff.

I just put what I want stripped in a metal coffee can and hose it down. Usually I tilt the can so the models end up sitting in the liquid once it "defoams". Let it sit a day or two (actually can be as little as an hour, but I find it easier to just leave it be overnight and get back to it when I come home from work).

After that it's nitrile gloves (The blue ones that are similar to latex gloves, I just hate latex) and a toothbrush. Occasionally have to hit it with a second spray/soak, but usually not. Strips it down as clean as can be and usually cleans out the superglue while it's there (Or at least makes it brittle enough to flake off with a bit of encouragement).

Tried both Simple Green and Brake Fluid, but both really suffer against enamels. Never thought of acetone, but the smell would be pretty horrendous.

Lacquer thinner. Literally works in 1 hour. However, make sure you don't have any plastic on there (including bases). It turns plastic to swiss cheese (literally, it forms air bubbles). Also, gloves would be a good idea. You can get it at any home depot, or probably even walmart.

So I stripped the SS with pure simple green, and it got all the paint off, except for all the recesses. The only problem, was that it took two days of soaking. Next time, I'm going to try something a little stronger, like Super Clean or even acetone. Thanks, everyone

Yeah, paint thinner will kill it fast.

For metal I like to use pine sol. Don't ever use it on plastic though. I like it because it doesnt have quite the unpleasant smell as acetone and others do. Any of those things mentioned above will work though.

I've stripped a couple hundred figures and have used almost all the products folks have mentioned above.

You're pretty much looking at a long soak for a safe easy to use product or a shorter soak for something that is going to be harsher and even dangerous.

As for me, I have a Cool Whip container of undiluted simple green or super clean (same active ingredient) in my laundry room. When I get figs with bad paint jobs (metal or plastic) I toss them in and come back in a week to scrub them. Sometimes they need more than one soak, but only rarely do I have to try a harsher chemical. If necessary I'll use brake fluid or oven cleaner.

I like the fact Simple Green is safe to do indoors and relatively foolproof in that I can leave metal and plastics in it for extended periods of time with no risk of damage. Sometimes stuff sits in there for months before I get around to scrubbing it.

If you just used GW paints (not enamels) on the figures you painted, a Simple green soak for a couple days followed by a toothbrush scrub will do the trick nicely.