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Me and a friend have had the same problem with white spray paint. When we spray figures with it, it leaves all kinds of particles and crap on the figure, making painting it out of the question. I had gotten a can of white to work before, but I had to replace it. I gave it a good shake for like 4 minutes, then proceeded to spray 10 hormegaunts. Big mistake, as it left the crap on them, and I have to strip all the pieces now. I used rustoleum flat white spray.

Has anyone else had a similar problem? If so how did you fix it? Just shake the crap out of it or something?

I know this isn't very helpful, but I just stopped using white spray.

I generally use black, but maybe you could use a GW spray gun that uses the potted paints (just an idea, dunno if it would work).

lord_blackfang wrote:I know this isn't very helpful, but I just stopped using white spray.

Honestly, It's not that unhelpful. I use black on another army, and not once have I had a problem. It's always white that causes issues. I'm worried if I switch though my army will have half its figures looking different.

Same general question to you manta. If I switch base coats, won't it screw with the colors that go over things? I could take a picture of something I have painted if you think you could determine how much it would change things.

Changing base coats will certainly make it harder to match the two groups. It depends on your colour scheme and quality of painting.

Did you spray when it was wet? That can destroy an otherwise excellent base coat; through moisture content causing bobbling.

I've had the same with older cans of GW white primer, but like many above have switched to black (unless I want really bright colours.).

Get yourself a can of duplicolor sandable white primer.

It looks like this:

http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS4wezvnLAwGBUhFczokUNTFSsAcWa1XB8lQYK9NqzQiEn7TQbS&t=1

I had all kinds of headaches with spray primer until i switched to this stuff. It is forgiving, covers well, and is not as touchy to use as GW or P3 primer. That goes for the black color, as well. You can usually find it at checker/o'reilly autoparts for about $7 a can.

Dances with Squats wrote:Changing base coats will certainly make it harder to match the two groups. It depends on your colour scheme and quality of painting.

Did you spray when it was wet? That can destroy an otherwise excellent base coat; through moisture content causing bobbling.

I've had the same with older cans of GW white primer, but like many above have switched to black (unless I want really bright colours.).

The models were just freshly cleaned, not wet in the least bit. Like I said it's happened more than once, but on my last can of spray paint it didn't do it. It's gotta be a lack of shaking or something.

What brand of white are you having trouble with?

From my experience with tattooing i have learned that, generally speaking, white pigmented paints and inks have much larger pigment particles than all other colors, with black having the smallest.

Meaning that, if the spray you are using is not designed specifically for use on a small scale you will have problems with coverage and thickness

I find GW white easy to use, but i find $22AUD a can thinly veiled extortion

JohnnyMartyr wrote:What brand of white are you having trouble with?

From my experience with tattooing i have learned that, generally speaking, white pigmented paints and inks have much larger pigment particles than all other colors, with black having the smallest.

Meaning that, if the spray you are using is not designed specifically for use on a small scale you will have problems with coverage and thickness

I find GW white easy to use, but i find $22AUD a can thinly veiled extortion

I think you have something there. I was just looking at the paint I bought and the one I used, and they're different. Both are rustoleum, but the original ones has a blue tag on it that says "ultra cover" and "painters touch", while the new one doesn't. It just says Rustoleum flat protective enamel. I think that might be it, considering what you said. I checked my local walmart and they didn't have it, so I'll pick up a can tomorrow at the hardware store and see what happens and report back here. Thanks!

Necroshea wrote: The models were just freshly cleaned, not wet in the least bit. Like I said it's happened more than once, but on my last can of spray paint it didn't do it. It's gotta be a lack of shaking or something.

sorry mate wasn't very clear. I didn't mean moisture on the models I meant airborne moisture due to rain. I live in lovely aquatic Britain and spraying can be nigh on impossible some weeks/months/years.

I've had problems with GW white paint as well. I too avoid using white now and stick with black

Dances with Squats wrote:

Necroshea wrote: The models were just freshly cleaned, not wet in the least bit. Like I said it's happened more than once, but on my last can of spray paint it didn't do it. It's gotta be a lack of shaking or something.

sorry mate wasn't very clear. I didn't mean moisture on the models I meant airborne moisture due to rain. I live in lovely aquatic Britain and spraying can be nigh on impossible some weeks/months/years.

Ah ok. Well, I've sprayed in different temps, never extremely hot/moist nor extremely cold/dry, but cold and warm, humid and dry, and I've gotten it to work. I think it's just the paint I've got. I picked up a new can of spray paint today and I plan to use it. I'll publish my findings after wards. Might save someone a headache.

Mantle wrote:I generally use black, but maybe you could use a GW spray gun that uses the potted paints (just an idea, dunno if it would work).

Bad idea. GW paint is not primer.

Humidity can really screw up priming, and can lead to "fuzz" on your minis. Also, sometimes you just get a bad can or two. I've given up on Armory spray primer altogether because I've gotten so many bad cans from them.

arkhamjack wrote:Get yourself a can of duplicolor sandable white primer.

It looks like this:

http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS4wezvnLAwGBUhFczokUNTFSsAcWa1XB8lQYK9NqzQiEn7TQbS&t=1

I had all kinds of headaches with spray primer until i switched to this stuff. It is forgiving, covers well, and is not as touchy to use as GW or P3 primer. That goes for the black color, as well. You can usually find it at checker/o'reilly autoparts for about $7 a can.

Duplicolor works like a charm.

I've also used Plasticoat white (rather hard to find in the US now) and GW's old white primer (back when primer was actually primer) and never had the trouble you describe. Worst I've had are primer strings from the dust bunnies in my spray box.

sorry mate wasn't very clear. I didn't mean moisture on the models I meant airborne moisture due to rain. I live in lovely aquatic Britain and spraying can be nigh on impossible some weeks/months/years.

Tell me about it. If I make enough money in the next few months I'll buy a Spray Booth for sure.
http://www.sylmasta.com/acatalog/Filtration_Hood__Extraction___Ducted_.html

I've had issues with white spray in the past as well, it just doesn't seem to cover plastic so well, it's o.k on metal though. A happy balance between black and white is Grey Plastic Primer (Halford's sell it in the U.K.) but I guess you can buy it from any large car accessory store - I find this leaves a nicer finish than pure/white or black and goes perfectly with Vallejo's Air Colour Range for spraying stuff (the pre-mix is great and most of their colours are similar to GW's). If you read this and are thinking of trying it it's quite a thick primer, so spray gently.

bumped/tagged/subscribed/whatever

I would like to try out some of the alternatives mentioned here.

I have been using Armory Black and GW Chaos Black... I could definitely go for some thing not as expensive.

I also used a light green from the Army Painter line just once. Kind of expensive too.

I know it sounds strange, but Krylon makes a great Indoor/Outdoor spray that bonds nicely to metal and plastics and is VERY nice and thin. It's their Indoor/Outdoor Flat Black UPC 24504-01602. It costs less than $4 anywhere you get it, it's in a large can and has a GREAT nozzle that sprays in a flat fan shape that you can turn in a 360 degree angle.

I know it sounds dodgy, but I've been painting models for 25 years of my life now, and I can't for the life of me see how this is any worse than Testors Model Master sprays or primers. You just can't lose with the stuff.

That being said, with all spray paint, you have to make sure the temperature and humidity are in check before you spray. Usually ideal temp is between 55-75F. Any less, and the paint gums up with the cold temp, any more and the paint will dry before it gets to the model, thus giving little specks of paint that just slap onto each other. Also, your humidity should be less than 80%, and much less than that is desireable.

Also, it's important when you are done spraying whatever it is you are spraying for the day, turn the paint can upside down and spray a little bit until no color comes out and only propellant. That will make sure your nozzle is clear, and won't speckle later.

Hope this helps, and have fun!

I have success with the following spray protocol:
1. Shake for 5-10 minutes
2. Leave to settle for 2-3 minutes
3. Spray in a consistent temperature environment
4. Spray a test piece first to unclog and make sure it is mixed well
5. ALWAYS KEEP THE CAN VERTICAL - some ranges give you odd mixes of propellent and paint which causes texture to appear.
6. Always use an actual primer, so it can go on a bit thicker than normal paint, then contracts, masking paint texture and leaving a smooth finish (army painter are good for this style paint).

Your problem is not in the paint, but rather the cartridge of the spray can. To take care of this problem you should hod your can upside-down and spray it briefly to clear out the tip. If the paint a sat in there to long you can just soak the caps in paint thinner.

from what I learned using spray cans is to treat them like proscribed medication.

You want to use it lightly for short quick burst.

And if its old you should just toss it out rather then risk using it.

Alright guys, took what I had on hand, including a receipt, a crappy cam, and google, and whipped up this little poster to help you get cheaper primer.



I hope it doesn't come out too big.

Edit - Use this link until I can make things more legible in the image

[http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c368/NecroShea/Rust-Oleum-Spray-Paint789707.jpg

As for the responses guys, I tried everything you mentioned. I always make sure theres no crud left over by spraying upside down, I always do quick bursts, and I never keep paint around for a long time so I'm sure it's not expired. Like I sorta showed in the poster, it's the paint I'm using. I see a HUGE difference.

Lord_Astaroth wrote:I know it sounds strange, but Krylon makes a great Indoor/Outdoor spray that bonds nicely to metal and plastics and is VERY nice and thin. It's their Indoor/Outdoor Flat Black UPC 24504-01602. It costs less than $4 anywhere you get it, it's in a large can and has a GREAT nozzle that sprays in a flat fan shape that you can turn in a 360 degree angle.

I know it sounds dodgy, but I've been painting models for 25 years of my life now, and I can't for the life of me see how this is any worse than Testors Model Master sprays or primers. You just can't lose with the stuff.

That being said, with all spray paint, you have to make sure the temperature and humidity are in check before you spray. Usually ideal temp is between 55-75F. Any less, and the paint gums up with the cold temp, any more and the paint will dry before it gets to the model, thus giving little specks of paint that just slap onto each other. Also, your humidity should be less than 80%, and much less than that is desireable.

Also, it's important when you are done spraying whatever it is you are spraying for the day, turn the paint can upside down and spray a little bit until no color comes out and only propellant. That will make sure your nozzle is clear, and won't speckle later.

Hope this helps, and have fun!

Plus 1 to that. I use Krylon for anything now. White or black primer for metal or plastic, or if i just need something for a huge plastic set i'll get a can of Krylon black Ultra Flat.

A few years back I was helping a friend who runs a gaming store and was talking to his sales representative from GW and even he said he uses stuff you buy from Wal-Mart.