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Ok, so as it says Zap-A-gap glue is the brand i use Medium CA+. Problem i have been having as of past 5 bottles, The cap dries shut as I'm using it. I keep it sitting upright, cap on when not in use, Out of the lamp light. All the basic take care of your things i do. One thing i do not use is the tiny tube it comes with to place over the nozzle(cant put the cap back on if i do) At 7 bucks a pop i'm getting a bit irritated with it. Any idea's or help with this problem? or anyone else having this problem?

I'd like to see some suggestions on this as well. Haha, the last bottle I bought I snapped the tip off of it!

I know some suggest using a lighter, but holding it so no flame touches the bottle just the heat. I'd prefer not to risk killing my kids or setting the house on fire

I've actually just left the tip on it that it comes with. As long as you can leave it sitting upright, it doesn't dry out. May be due to the opening being so small etc., but it doesn't dry out on me.

Ive had that problem before with zap-a-gap, so I switched super glue brands. I use Jet brand now, they have smaller bottles available so the likelyhood of it drying up before you use it is very low. Also, as a trick that has worked well for me to prevent it drying up; I take a piece of masking tape and tape around the seem between the nozzle of the bottle and the cap when I seal it back up and dont plan to use it for awhile. This will keep any air out that could dry out the glue. Best of luck

Thanks for the pointers fellas. Would it change things if i put that little tip on it that comes in the package? Or even maybe just change brands altogether? I've dropped close to 40 bucks in glue almost in 1 week, and the wife is getting a bit annoyed putting it nicely lol. preferable a brand with the same thickness as the Medium CA+ but maybe with a wider opening for the nozzle

Gel glue, it works wonders. So easy to control, much more accurate, stronger, the cap doesn't get blocked and as its not liquid, it doesnt run, it stays where you put it, it's so much better than liquid super glue. It's a little more expensive, I bought some and never looked back.

Sounds wonderful. Any brands you could suggest or i could look up?

Stick a paper clip in the end of the long nozzle. I have a bottle that I first opened last YEAR that I'm still using.

I use loctite, but I am not sure if they sell that in the US. The Loctite one has triggers on the side to make application easier

I use Zap-A-Gap religiously. Granted; the clicktop is a bear once it gets glued on. I just keep a pair of pliers handy. I "crunch" twice (opposite sides) then pop it off. I buy the BIG bottle.

I used the "trigger" locktite once.... after it was done I pulled it apart, and lo and behold.... it's simply a small tube of super glue inside. The "triggers" just squeeze it. Lame.

That’s weird…
My local gaming shop sells Zap-A-Gap and recommends it highly. Being new to this hobby I bought the GW glue first and didn’t have much luck with it so I bought a 1 oz bottle of Zap-A-Gap Medium CA+ and it’s been great. Now 7 months later I just used it up… today actually… The only thing I noticed was the cap they provide “sucks” and I bought a small container of Z-Ends which are recommended by Zap to use with their bottles… sure I had a couple clog but usually a simple poke with a pin and I was back in business.
I have a 4 oz bottle now in preparation of all the models I have ahead of me…. I also have the one for “build up” but I can’t find it so I don’t know the part #, it’s the yellow bottle…..
I do know of a fella who snapped the top of his bottle but that was because he was stupid about trying to remove the dried on cap…
There about 20 guys in our group and they all use Zap-A-Gap…
I like the Testor’s professional with the really small metal tip for precision gluing but haven’t tried it yet.

winnertakesall wrote:I use loctite, but I am not sure if they sell that in the US. The Loctite one has triggers on the side to make application easier

Loctite gel glue is plain amazing, it sticks stuff quickly enough, and being completely controllable
never looked any other brand when choosing glue

Second on Loctite. They have many varieties of consistency including gel,liquid, pen applicators,slow dry, plastic bond and even brush on. The caps have a pin them to keep nozzle free of dried glue. you can find them at most diy stores and it isn't expensive.

I've had some of the same issues mentioend here, so I switched to Bob Smith Industries (BSI) cyanoacrylates.
http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/ca.html

Many hobby shops carry it, though it often doesn't say BSI except in tiny letters on the back. Instead where the logo is, they often print the name of the store carrying it. Cheaper, with more product than Loctite and Zapagap, and I haven't had nearly the problems I've had with other brands.

It comes in quite a few formulations, but I always have the Insta-cure (very thin) and Maxi-cure (very thick) on hand. It really pays to have both as sometimes you need the capilary action of a thin glue on a very tight joint and sometimes you need a thick glue that will bond irregular surfaces and even act as a filler if necessary.

Lastly, besides keeping your glue stored upright, there are two simple things you can do are to prolong the life of your glue. A always make sure that all excess glue is off the tip and stem (rub it with a piece of paper) before putting the cap back on and keep a needle around in case you get a bit of dried glue in the tip.

They also make some non-brittle formulatins that I haven't tried, but would probably be awesome for joining heavy metal miniatures without pinning.

I use mostly Loctite, but the small metal tubes that come 2 to a blister. Same price as 1/2 as much in the trigger thing, and works just as easily.

I have a little bit of an issue with Zap a Gap drying in the tip, but a little effort with a pin or small drill bit does the trick. I mostly only use it for lose parts that I don't completely want to remove, preferring gel otherwise.

I got some Gorilla super glue to try out since it is supposed to be a little less brittle, but I haven't used it yet.

Loctite is available in the US. In fact that's all I buy now. Per ounce, the price may be close to the GW price, but I haven't had any issues with it clogging. I get the one that is a bottle that has these blue ribs on the side that suck back in the extra glue so you use just enough, that almost look like plasma cannons (best way to describe on a primarily 40k forum). I buy it at Wal-Mart for under 3 bucks a pop. It is also very easy to make Space marine veteran studs on shoulder pads and legs with it, just by putting on a couple dots where you want it, then take some Zip Kicker to freeze them in place.

Does the locitite gel work on plastic without melting it??

I use a thumbtack in the nozzle on mine.
Works fine.

Stops air getting in and drying out the drops stuck in there, and the thumbtack is large enough that I can just torque it out if it does stick.

Zap-A-Gap is evil. Plan and simple.

This was back in my starting years when I was using zap-a-gap for gluing my models. I had a Model in my hand and was putting one arm up to then the next while holding the different ones in my mouth...... well I decided on of the then and stuck the glue on the body and set the arm on it, and at the second I did I realized it was the wrong arm, so I grabbed it and put it in my lips to save it and put the on e that wanted on it.....well after is put the arm on the model I went to grab the other one and well.... It didn’t move....it was glued to my lips... I went to yell *explisive* to find out I had glues half of my mouth shut...... So several oz's of whiskey later and a Very careful hand of my gf with a scalpel and some Alchole prep pads to lose up the glue, my lips were un-stuck..... She never lets me live it down....

On topic, I use a Thumb tac, and use it to plug up the end.

Get some Loctite Super Glue for real cheap. When the cap dries, use a paper clip to force it clear again. I haven't had any glue problems since I started using it.

I use and love Zap a Gap myself. When I am done and ready to put the factory cap on i wipe the tip with a kleenex before i recap it. Also, when I open it to next use it- and it is dried shut- as usual - I just take my hobby knife and gently cut a shaving off the tip until the opening is exposed- then I use to my hearts content and repeat as necessary!

Zap a gap is good but you have to take care of it. First you should be using the tiny tube that goes over the nozzle. Sometimes you have to cut the very tip off to get it to flow better. When you are finished with it, take the tube off and wipe off the nozzle. The replace the small cap and then the large cap. Put the tube over top of the large cap. Sometimes the glue will harden inside of the tube. To fix this, run a needle through it to push out the dried glue. If you do this, you should be able to maximize the use of the glue.

Also when glue builds up on the outside of the tube, take a pair of needle noose pliers and gently squeeze the tip to break away the dried glue. Don't let it build up much or it will waste glue.

Take care of it and it will last.

This is what i always do, But i will pick out all this Dried glue (the entire upper half is clogged shut with chunks of dried glue) And give it another go. I have always used Zap and never had trouble until recently.

Agree with a lot that's been said about keeping the nozzle clean with Zap-A-Gap.

Have to say, though, that the Gorilla Superglue (which contains rubber to make it less brittle and more shockproof) has been great and has a pin in the cap that does a great job of preventing clogging and cap-bonding!

So, ALL superglue is cyanoacrilate. There is no real difference. You might as well just buy the cheapest stuff you can find.

The only real difference is in plastic glue, which actually isn't glue, but is a solvent with thickener.

Ailaros wrote:So, ALL superglue is cyanoacrilate. There is no real difference. You might as well just buy the cheapest stuff you can find.

The only real difference is in plastic glue, which actually isn't glue, but is a solvent with thickener.

Not quite. As specified, Gorilla Glue has a rubberizer that makes it less brittle. Loctite gel is, well, a gel that makes it easier to control. Zap a Gap is very thin and good for getting to wick into small spaces. So all super glues may have cyanoacrilate, but that's not the end of it.

I usually have to also muscle the cap off at times, but it can be safely twisted off, I will use my clipper handles like a nut cracker if need be to "grip" the cap and help me loosen it.
Do not be overly forceful, use a steady gentle pressure.

Skin oil will make this even more necessary if it touches that part of the bottle when the glue seeps between the cap and the nozzle. I wipe away excess glue with a napkin or moist cloth. A veterinarian trick from using their glue to seal a cat's paws after de-claw surgery is to blow at the tip and force the glue back away from the end of the nozzle, it even worked with the canula tubes.^^

Ailaros wrote:So, ALL superglue is cyanoacrilate. There is no real difference. You might as well just buy the cheapest stuff you can find.

The only real difference is in plastic glue, which actually isn't glue, but is a solvent with thickener.

Yes, but there are very real differences.

All Superglues contain cyanoacrylate, but they have other ingredients as well. Check the link that I put up a few posts abpve. There are different thicknesses of cyanoactylate, different drying times and some have additives to make them more or less brittle.

It really does pay to have more than one superglue depending on the task, or at least to chose the one that you use most often.

For example, a thin glue will work extremely fast, but the surfaces must be very well matched. A thicker glue or gel glue works much slower, but you can bond surfaces that aren't perfectly matched with much more strength.

Id say switch at this point. Another thing I like about Jet superglue is that it doesnt leave that corrosive white residue like zap-a-gap does and the hold is just as strong. Local hobby stores should carry Jet brans super glue.

Element206 wrote:Id say switch at this point. Another thing I like about Jet superglue is that it doesnt leave that corrosive white residue like zap-a-gap does and the hold is just as strong. Local hobby stores should carry Jet brans super glue.

Does Zip Kicker work with it?