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As the title says, Citadel products can blow roasted chestnuts.

Does Krylon have one, or can any dakkanauts recommend one? Have to production line a couple dozen world eaters.

I've used this to great success on a 10K point Khorne army. The real plus here is do a nice even coat and all you are painting is the details.

The other plus is that is looks something akin to dried blood, perfect for WE.

As a Canuck, you shouldn't have any problem finding it.

http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm/Paint-Décor/Paint/Home-s-Rust-Marine/Aero-Rust/PRIMER-ALK-RUST-RD-OX-340G/_/N-2pqfZ67l/Ne-67n/Ntk-All_EN/R-I1822969?Ntt=Rust+Coat+red

no problem, indeed: there is a HH and a home depot not 5 minutes from my home.

I will have to give this a try as well. Does it take paint well? Whats the finish like? Matt or satin?

It takes paint very well. It is a primer alkyd paint, so it has a matte finish and excellent tooth. The only caveat is that since it is designed to also work on metals, the nozzle has a higher spray density (larger droplets/volume) that I found you have to spray from a further distance than most miniature based primers, which tend to be fine spray nozzles. Not much to adapt to, but I would recommend testing it on something first until you get used to how it sprays and covers.

Haven't had any experience with the above, but I can recommend Army Painter Sprays. They have two shades of red.

I'd like to point out that spray paint =/= primer necessarily.

aerethan wrote:I'd like to point out that spray paint =/= primer necessarily.

Actually, it doesn't. Try basing models in a enamel gloss paint then painting over it.

I'm trying out the Krylon Fusion Red Pepper. I just sampled how Scab Red lay on it and while it wasn't as toothy as I would like, it was still pretty solid and still gives the models a solid, bloody look.

So far looks like a real time saver. Thanks Maleval!

Army-painter is terrible. It's really expensive and while some cans are all right, many i've used come out gritty even in good weather. Even the ok ones never are as smooth as good primer should be.

Stay away from rustoleum too, it stays tacky for a week afterwards and tends to pick up dust in the meantime.

I have NEVER had that problem with Rustoleum.. but then again, I am limiting myself to the Matte Flat Camoflage colors..

Lord Maleval wrote:

aerethan wrote:I'd like to point out that spray paint =/= primer necessarily.

Actually, it doesn't. Try basing models in a enamel gloss paint then painting over it.

=/= means "does not equal", glad we agree.

Anywho, use airbrush primer or floquil primer if you want the best, smoothest, and thinnest primer out there. I find an airbrush perfect for every single batch of base coating I do after a nice thin primer. So just airbrush your red after airbrushing primer. Saves hours and hours over hand painting, and you don't have to worry about crappy batches of spray paint, bad weather, humidity etc.

aerethan wrote:

Lord Maleval wrote:

aerethan wrote:I'd like to point out that spray paint =/= primer necessarily.

Actually, it doesn't. Try basing models in a enamel gloss paint then painting over it.

=/= means "does not equal", glad we agree.

Anywho, use airbrush primer or floquil primer if you want the best, smoothest, and thinnest primer out there. I find an airbrush perfect for every single batch of base coating I do after a nice thin primer. So just airbrush your red after airbrushing primer. Saves hours and hours over hand painting, and you don't have to worry about crappy batches of spray paint, bad weather, humidity etc.

Then I offer apologies, I am not familiar with =/= as a term.

I know some people swear by it but the Army Painter Red primer I used did NOT work out for me.

I bought 4 cans. 1 would spray on gritty and sandyish even in great weather. 2 of them were a much brighter shade of red than the other 2.

Sad :( It would have been a really simple way to base all my Blood Angels :/