Switch Theme:

Resin  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in ie
Stealthy Space Wolves Scout






Birmingham, UK.

Hello again everyone, now, straight to business.
At this moment in time I'm very busy with writing out the fluff for my own interpretation of the lost XI Legion. I have their history, heroes, and even their primarch.
I am really desperate to try and turn my notes on the XI Primarch into a minie, and, luckily I've found the minies to do so.
But, they are resin, I haven't used resin before and I'm 14, so I don't have much experience.
Could anyone please maybe give me tips on using resin, converting it, any things you have to do before contruction etc. etc.

crimson

The Rout, Vlka Fenryka, Warrior Kings of Fenris.... the Space Wolves. Horus Heresy. Sixth Great Company. 1500pts. In progress.

"Atop a sea, a crimson red,
Axe to bare, land paved with dead,
Strode the Jaw, teeth bared in snarl,
Glimmering maw, death in hand."
Saga of the Gristlefang 
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

People will scream at you about breathing in the dust when cleaning or drilling it. Honestly unless you are using fine grit sandpaper, the "dust" will be too heavy to get into the air. People are way paranoid about this for some reason, as if ones first inclination is to snort a line of resin dust.

Use warm to hot water to soften it if you need to bend anything that was warped in casting. Works alot like plastic, although it is much more rigid and therefore is very brittle. It won't bend much on it's own before breaking.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in gb
Strider






Yup theres really not much to fear, there's a lots of do this and don't do that out there but the run down as said above is.


It's brittle
Use super glue - funnily enough plastic cement doesn't work
Pin it - just good practice and gives you piece of mind
The sun can do funny stuff to it, Discolour and depending on the resin increase the brittle nature of it. BUT this take a couple years in direct sunlight.
It's heavier, if that matters - for balancing minis in poses. Could be a pro or a con depending on your pose.

Other than that yeah.. go for it. I like it a lot.

http://turnbasedtarpit.blogspot.co.uk/
http://www.youtube.com/user/ArtfulUnderachiever?feature=mhee
http://4acrossisemu.deviantart.com/
https://sites.google.com/site/techincallyterrain/ 
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

Not all resins are heavy. I use smooth-on "smooth cast 305" and it's fairly light in weight.


"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in gb
Jovial Plaguebearer of Nurgle






I give it a gentle scrub with soapy water then a little soak in clean water to get the mould release agent off.

Take care when trimming flash off the model, it's softer than metal but obviously it's quite easy to accidentally snap off some detail. Be extra careful if you have to cut towards any parts of the model as it can split/snap in the direction of the cut.

After that it behaves much the same as plastic if you're cutting/converting or drilling any parts. As said above if you have any warped parts you can warm them in water to straighten them. I find it best to have hot water from the tap to begin with then add small amounts from a kettle if the piece isn't supple enough.

On the whole, if you've worked with plastic you should have no problems, you just need to be aware that resin will be a bit more brittle. If you do snap something I wouldn't worry too much as the break tends to be much cleaner than with plastic, I've snapped tiny pieces off of things and stuck them back on with no problems and barely noticeable joins (my Nurgle Sorcerer's spear snapped half way up the shaft and after painting I can't actually tell where it was).

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2011/04/17 09:26:36


 
   
Made in us
Never-Miss Nightwing Pilot






Bullfrog wrote:Take care when trimming flash off the model, it's softer than metal but obviously it's quite easy to accidentally snap off some detail. Be extra careful if you have to cut towards any parts of the model as it can split/snap in the direction of the cut.
I would also suggest taking this advise one step further. When trimming flash chunks from resin bits, if at all possible, I use a hobby or jeweler's saw. You don't need as much pressure to remove the flash. I have snapped or sliced into many a thin piece of resin with hobby knife.



King Ghidorah

   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: