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Made in us
Deadly Dark Eldar Warrior





Bloomington/Normal, Illinois

Ever since the new BA codex came out I've been wanting to try NMM. This is just a space marine, but I wanted to practive the effect on a small area before I attempted the effect on my Sanguinary Gaurd.
Tell me what you guys think, and where I can improve.

Thanks!
[Thumb - LEVEL3FRONT.jpg]
ALL of the metal is NMM

[Thumb - LEVEL3BACK.jpg]
ALL of the metal is NMM

[Thumb - LEVEL3SIDE.jpg]
ALL of the metal is NMM


I take painting/converting commissions!! Help feed a poor college girl!! [: 
   
Made in ca
Jealous that Horus is Warmaster





You should practice on a full Space Marine now, I am assuming your Guard are going to be full NMM correct?
I say that only because it is hard to tell fully what could or couldn't be done differently on the small area done here.
From what I can see though it looks great
   
Made in us
Deadly Dark Eldar Warrior





Bloomington/Normal, Illinois

Yeah, that's my next project. I just wanted to try on a small area to get a hang of the colors that I would be using.
Thanks, though! The pictures kind of suck, they were taken with my phone... But you can still get the jist of it. [:

I take painting/converting commissions!! Help feed a poor college girl!! [: 
   
Made in au
Long-Range Black Templar Land Speeder Pilot





Australia

Well it looks good man, a little to thich paint srry

Templars 1800pts Guard 3600 pts Ba 3400. Grey Knights 3600 pts 
   
Made in au
Boom! Leman Russ Commander





Brisbane, Australia

^ I believe this is a woman. Moving along, what the eff does
a little to thich paint srry mean
mean?

Yes, the paint is a little thick... there's something else that I can't quite put a finger on that I don't like about this model... It's not badly painted per se, but... I don't like it. sorry.

 
   
Made in jp
Sinewy Scourge






USA

I've noticed that the phrase "paint is too thick" or "thin your paints" is often used by people to express a negative opinion while remaining polite (on dakka at least). I don't see any sign at all that the paint is too thick, it looks perfectly normal in this regard.

My impression is that your NMM could benefit from a couple things (and good for you for trying to learn an advanced paining technique, by the way). I think your dark areas and light areas are both too big. The brightest part of the metal should be pretty small and the darkest should be a little bit bigger than that (the brightest). Do you get what I mean?

Also, I think your choice of colors needs more range to blend, like 6 colors rather than 3.

"drinking liqueur from endangered rain forest flowers cold-distilled over multicolored diamonds while playing croquet on robot elephants using asian swim suit models as living wickets... well, some hobbies are simply more appealing than others." -Sourclams

AesSedai's guide to building a custom glass display case for your figures

Kabal of the Twisting Abyss--Blog Laenea, A Tendril of Hive Fleet Hydra--Blog

Always looking for games in/near Raleigh! 
   
Made in ca
Avatar of the Bloody-Handed God





Inactive

AesSedai wrote:I've noticed that the phrase "paint is too thick" or "thin your paints" is often used by people to express a negative opinion while remaining polite (on dakka at least). I don't see any sign at all that the paint is too thick, it looks perfectly normal in this regard.

The foot tube / armor plate , the vent at back of the leg.


Though thick paint or not i think it looks nice.

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Made in jp
Sinewy Scourge






USA

The foot tube / armor plate , the vent at back of the leg.


I stand corrected (partially ). The vent is painted a bit thickly, but I always thought the foot tube / armor plate was just a poorly molded detail with inadequate definition to begin with.

"drinking liqueur from endangered rain forest flowers cold-distilled over multicolored diamonds while playing croquet on robot elephants using asian swim suit models as living wickets... well, some hobbies are simply more appealing than others." -Sourclams

AesSedai's guide to building a custom glass display case for your figures

Kabal of the Twisting Abyss--Blog Laenea, A Tendril of Hive Fleet Hydra--Blog

Always looking for games in/near Raleigh! 
   
Made in ca
Avatar of the Bloody-Handed God





Inactive

AesSedai wrote:
The foot tube / armor plate , the vent at back of the leg.


I stand corrected (partially ). The vent is painted a bit thickly, but I always thought the foot tube / armor plate was just a poorly molded detail with inadequate definition to begin with.

I think its fine really :'P

half of painting and high lights does exactly that , mimic light and shadow which other wise , miniatures might be too small to catch / reflect.

It looks good , so thick or not matters not to me ( yes im also guilty of not thinning my paint myself xD )

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Made in au
Lady of the Lake






I think some parts of the shoulder trim seem to go too dark to fast without really blending along the way. But, it looks pretty decent.

The skull on the back is nice.

   
Made in us
Deadly Dark Eldar Warrior





Bloomington/Normal, Illinois

AesSedai wrote:I've noticed that the phrase "paint is too thick" or "thin your paints" is often used by people to express a negative opinion while remaining polite (on dakka at least). I don't see any sign at all that the paint is too thick, it looks perfectly normal in this regard.

My impression is that your NMM could benefit from a couple things (and good for you for trying to learn an advanced paining technique, by the way). I think your dark areas and light areas are both too big. The brightest part of the metal should be pretty small and the darkest should be a little bit bigger than that (the brightest). Do you get what I mean?

Also, I think your choice of colors needs more range to blend, like 6 colors rather than 3.


Thank you!
I always appreciate good critiques like this instead of "that looks good" or "that looks bad"
For me I think the biggest obstacle is knowing which colors to use. There were 5-6 colors I was using, but I think I just got a little carried away with the highlighting because I wasn't comfortable leaving so much of it brown...
Any tips on which colors to use?
I find myself using mixtures of bestial brown, snakebite leather, bronzed flesh, some badmoon yellow and white/black.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
n0t_u wrote:I think some parts of the shoulder trim seem to go too dark to fast without really blending along the way. But, it looks pretty decent.

The skull on the back is nice.


Yeah, I think I just got a little crazy when doing the white. xD

The skull is easily my favorite part. I did it last, and so I think I was getting over my highlighting high. d:


Automatically Appended Next Post:
AesSedai wrote:
The foot tube / armor plate , the vent at back of the leg.


I stand corrected (partially ). The vent is painted a bit thickly, but I always thought the foot tube / armor plate was just a poorly molded detail with inadequate definition to begin with.


Sorry for so many edits.. I just read this post and wanted to say that this is actually one of the Battle for Maccragge space marines. There are nasty mould lines and all sorts of gross things wrong with the models themselves; I traded for them and they came put together and primed.. so I just did my best to make him look decent. [:

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2011/04/20 17:48:41


I take painting/converting commissions!! Help feed a poor college girl!! [: 
   
Made in gb
Speedy Swiftclaw Biker




Castle Black

You need to blend your collours a bit more so they fade into one annother instead of going from one straight into the next.

i recomend trying a few more models with increaceingly larger area of metal before going on to a full sanguinary gyard model so that your final model looks the best that you can make it.

other than that, this is verry good for your first try.

FOR RUSS AND THE ALLFATHER
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