Switch Theme:

Metallics and Airbrushing  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in gb
Raging-on-the-Inside Blood Angel Sergeant





Quick questions really, Would running a metallic paint like Boltgun metal through my airbrush cause any damage or problems at all? It will be properly thinned down. What about cleaning it afterwards, Should I be doing anything different than how I usually clean it? Is there any better paints that I could be using that work better which airbrushes?

Cheers

d-usa wrote:Orks are the GW version of R2D2. No matter how advanced the defenses may be, there is always an open serial port somewhere that can be pluged into and a firewall that was never configured.
 
   
Made in dk
Hardened Veteran Guardsman






Valejo Model Air has a line of metallics paints, designed for airbrush uses.
   
Made in gb
[ADMIN]
Decrepit Dakkanaut






London, UK

Yeah, the Vallejo Air metallics are hands down the best metallics in any range I've tried. They have such tiny metal flakes that they go through an airbrush perfectly and also look amazing on any model (painted on or airbrushed on).

Check out our new, fully plastic tabletop wargame - Maelstrom's Edge, made by Dakka!
 
   
Made in gb
Raging-on-the-Inside Blood Angel Sergeant





Which Model air is the same as Boltgun metal?

d-usa wrote:Orks are the GW version of R2D2. No matter how advanced the defenses may be, there is always an open serial port somewhere that can be pluged into and a firewall that was never configured.
 
   
Made in au
Rifleman Grey Knight Venerable Dreadnought




Realm of Hobby

Vallejo Model Air (VMA) contain a higher ratio of pigment then your regular "brush-on" paints.

Also, since the "sparkle" in metallics is from mica particles, metallics can be damaging to your air-brush over long periods of use. Ensure you use more than a basic acetone to clean your air-brush out after using metallics.

I use MEDEA airbrush cleaning solution. It cleans but also protects with an oil.

VMA "Steel" is what I use instead of Boltgun, and I paint it onto the metallic parts of Space Marines instead of spraying it. It will also give you a better result than GW metals when applied with a brush due to the higher pigment ratio.

MikZor wrote:
We can't help that american D&D is pretty much daily life for us (Aussies)

Walking to shops, "i'll take a short cut through this bush", random encounter! Lizard with no legs.....
I kid Since i avoid bushlands that is
But we're not that bad... are we?
 
   
Made in gb
Raging-on-the-Inside Blood Angel Sergeant





My airbrush is an Aztek one, After use I run it all under water and make sure there is no paint left to block anything, The nozzles and the cups are fine, Im just worried about the inside of the airbrush itself, Should I run acrylic thinner through it?

d-usa wrote:Orks are the GW version of R2D2. No matter how advanced the defenses may be, there is always an open serial port somewhere that can be pluged into and a firewall that was never configured.
 
   
Made in au
Rifleman Grey Knight Venerable Dreadnought




Realm of Hobby

Thamor wrote:My airbrush is an Aztek one, After use I run it all under water and make sure there is no paint left to block anything, The nozzles and the cups are fine, Im just worried about the inside of the airbrush itself, Should I run acrylic thinner through it?


For deep cleans you should clean the inside with the MEDEA solution or a similar brand.

The oil component will protect the inside from corrosion while not in use.

Aztek was a reliable brand and I do not know enough about them to comment.

I purchased a solid metal model from Runway13 and AUS-based company. The model design is similar to an older version IWATA, which is now one of the rave brands.

To be honest, so long as your brand doesnt have any cheap, nasty plastic parts in important places, you shoud be fine so long as you maintain the brush.


MikZor wrote:
We can't help that american D&D is pretty much daily life for us (Aussies)

Walking to shops, "i'll take a short cut through this bush", random encounter! Lizard with no legs.....
I kid Since i avoid bushlands that is
But we're not that bad... are we?
 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: