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However, i have made the base myself, cus i am not buying it as i am cheap ^^!



Its hopefully trygon sized...


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Thoughts and Comments?

Nice, I like it.

I especially like the change of having a sort of tail as the spawning method, makes it unique.

Only thing is the tail could do with a little smoothing over at the joints.

Yeah i plan to go over later with another layer of Greeny, so it also looks a bit like the segmented armour.

I originally wanted it to be like the Queens Birthing Sacs off the Aliens Films, but i thought this would look equally as good.

Take a ton of water/spit (I use spit so my models can be DNA traced that I own them, lol. Also, its even more free than tap water.)

Anyway, rub that moisture, whatever you use over the greenstuff. it will take out the fingerprints and even allow you to smooth it with a toothpick tip.

Its set now...

But as i say, i'm going over it later, so i'll follow your advice DT!

Bulk out the tail, so that it looks more like a giant egg-laying tube, as if the gaunts have been squeezed out of the tervigon's torso. Otherwise looking pretty good.

My thoughts is that the tail is really tough, and can be raised and then the eggs come out the bottom and they develop really quick, going from the size of a golf ball into the size of a load Termagants in a couple of seconds and then it hatches spawning a load of gants.

Okay, my Tyrant is now done.

Painted, stuck on its base, got all 4 arms and even has some weird eggs on its base i made by accident....








I have also done my 2nd Tervigons gak/Egg/Termagant Tube.
For those who can't remember, didn't look or didn't care...








Now, Mark II








Annnndddd, for reasons even i don't know...
I made a Table...

YES! Thats exactly the table I was looking for.
I've been searching hobby lobby dollhouse section for a endtable or something suitable small for rippers to be playing 40k on, but that is awesome.
Genius.

Dude, +1 for the Mark II tail. That looks like it can squirt out gaunts AND nom somebody's head just as easily. Plus, the adrenal glands and toxin sacs really make it look eggy.
My only suggestion (I have not used GS before, so this may not work) is to use a spare adrenal gland or the bendy part of a straw to press more of a design into the bare GS areas, both to give it texture as well as to hide possible fingerprints.

Looks awesome so far!

Yup, the Mk II tail looks a lot more believable and nasty. Now you just need to cover that raw greenstuff in some nice skin/armour detail (also made from greenstuff )

Loving the second tail mate, much improved. Also love the hatching egg there.

Doomthumbs wrote:Take a ton of water/spit (I use spit so my models can be DNA traced that I own them, lol. Also, its even more free than tap water.)

Anyway, rub that moisture, whatever you use over the greenstuff. it will take out the fingerprints and even allow you to smooth it with a toothpick tip.

Even better is vaseline, get some on your fingers, and smooth it out with some rubbing. Just give it a bit of a wash with dish soap prior to painting and it won't mess anything up.

Doomthumbs wrote:YES! Thats exactly the table I was looking for.
I've been searching hobby lobby dollhouse section for a endtable or something suitable small for rippers to be playing 40k on, but that is awesome.
Genius.

*Not sure if its Sarcasm* Thanks
Its fairly obvious how i made it so...

Clang wrote:Yup, the Mk II tail looks a lot more believable and nasty. Now you just need to cover that raw greenstuff in some nice skin/armour detail (also made from greenstuff )

I'm awful at the Detailing stuff like that, so i usually just use Paint to cover it up

tantan628 wrote:Loving the second tail mate, much improved. Also love the hatching egg there.

I made it by pouring paint into super glue...
Not sure i why did in the first place, but thats also how i got the weird things on my Tyrants base

Spend some time cleaning mould lines before you assemble your kits fella.

Just a suggestion, use a small piece of plastic freezer ziplock bag (nice and thick) and lightly press it on to the green stuff and peel it away to smooth it out. Repeat until it is as smooth as you desire. Also after GS hardens you can sand it smooth to get rid of the finger prints.

jprp wrote:Spend some time cleaning mould lines before you assemble your kits fella.

Is it bad, that i can never see Mould lines?
And when i paint over them no one points them out...

ChaosDave wrote:Just a suggestion, use a small piece of plastic freezer ziplock bag (nice and thick) and lightly press it on to the green stuff and peel it away to smooth it out. Repeat until it is as smooth as you desire. Also after GS hardens you can sand it smooth to get rid of the finger prints.

This, seems like a good idea!
Cheers man i'll give it a bash tommorrow

Bloodhorror wrote:

jprp wrote:Spend some time cleaning mould lines before you assemble your kits fella.

Is it bad, that i can never see Mould lines?
And when i paint over them no one points them out...

ChaosDave wrote:Just a suggestion, use a small piece of plastic freezer ziplock bag (nice and thick) and lightly press it on to the green stuff and peel it away to smooth it out. Repeat until it is as smooth as you desire. Also after GS hardens you can sand it smooth to get rid of the finger prints.

This, seems like a good idea!
Cheers man i'll give it a bash tommorrow

the ziplock bag trick works well if you use water to lubricate the surface.

Bloodhorror wrote:

jprp wrote:Spend some time cleaning mould lines before you assemble your kits fella.

Is it bad, that i can never see Mould lines?
And when i paint over them no one points them out...

ChaosDave wrote:Just a suggestion, use a small piece of plastic freezer ziplock bag (nice and thick) and lightly press it on to the green stuff and peel it away to smooth it out. Repeat until it is as smooth as you desire. Also after GS hardens you can sand it smooth to get rid of the finger prints.

This, seems like a good idea!
Cheers man i'll give it a bash tommorrow

Im not having a go here but if your paint is thick enough to hide mould lines then you should refine your painting style as you must be losing a lot of detail as well.
Get yourself some steel sculpting tools for the putty work .

oops deleted the bit about Derby-i was confusing you with a guy in another thread i subscribed to tonight.

i have one of the GW Sculpting things... and i usually use to mould two slabs of green stuff together?

if i try to smooth it over, it either rips apart or just gets stuck to the tool.

Bloodhorror wrote:i have one of the GW Sculpting things... and i usually use to mould two slabs of green stuff together?

if i try to smooth it over, it either rips apart or just gets stuck to the tool.

You need to keep it from getting stuck, some people use excess amounts of spit/water to prevent it from sticking, but I've found vaseline is an easy and strict upgrade to the process. Just put some on your fingertips/tool tip before working and you'll never stick again. Given the model a rinse prior to paint using dish soap and it won't interfere with painting at all.

I'm gettin all this info, and that was the last bit of Greenstuffery i need to do for this army!

Unless there is some needed on my Warriors/Hive Guard...

No sarcasm! That is legitimately an awesome table, sir.

Bloodhorror wrote:i have one of the GW Sculpting things... and i usually use to mould two slabs of green stuff together?

if i try to smooth it over, it either rips apart or just gets stuck to the tool.

Seriously use the plastic bag and water to smooth it out. cut out a 1 inch by 2 inch piece and lightly Dab the flat surface of the bag with a rolling motion on the green stuff. It will make it smooth as glass.

Bloodhorror wrote:i have one of the GW Sculpting things... and i usually use to mould two slabs of green stuff together?

if i try to smooth it over, it either rips apart or just gets stuck to the tool.

Just dip the tool in water, flick off any excess and sculpt, dip again when it starts to drag.
Also you can use a thin disposable glove on your non sculpting hand to smooth large areas.