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Made in ca
Space Marine Scout with Sniper Rifle





Canada

Tell me what you all think of my xv25! Dont hesitate to critizise, all constructive criticism is more than welcome, what should I do next? Or what could I add?

What I've done so far: Fenris grey on the faceplate, liche purple / dry brushed with white and layered with warlock purple for the optical lense, layered effect on the FB : enchanted blue, hawk turqouise, ice blue, skull white. All black drybrushed with mythril silver

What I feel I still need to do: Outline the armor, add a coat of gloss varnish to the optical lenses.. yeah!

Front



Front 2



side



back



other side




"I will ward of your enemies as felt cloth protects one from the wind"
 
   
Made in us
Drone without a Controller



Fort Stewart, GA

Looks good! I like the dark color scheme. However, I suggest doing something with base to add contrast before you finish, and Holy Mold lines Batman! That is definitely one of my peeves... I am so anal about mold lines on my models that I spend a good deal of time trying to scrape of as much as possible with my Xacto...

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Made in us
Focused Fire Warrior




Boone, NC

Looks really good man!

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Made in fr
Regular Dakkanaut






Ah yeah them mold lines anoy me lol but everything else is perfect well done !!

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Made in us
Stone Bonkers Fabricator General






A garden grove on Citadel Station

The whole "70% of the model is drybrushed boltgun over black" isn't so hot in my opinion. Try adding some more actual color to the model, and consider highlighting. It isn't bad looking, though.

ph34r's Forgeworld Phobos blog, current WIP: Iron Warriors and Skaven Tau
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Made in ca
Space Marine Scout with Sniper Rifle





Canada

kanebbcksc wrote:Looks good! I like the dark color scheme. However, I suggest doing something with base to add contrast before you finish, and Holy Mold lines Batman! That is definitely one of my peeves... I am so anal about mold lines on my models that I spend a good deal of time trying to scrape of as much as possible with my Xacto...


Hahaha that got a good laugh outta me. Yeah I really have to start watching those mold lines with my models, any suggestions? Thanks for all the great comments and tips folks

"I will ward of your enemies as felt cloth protects one from the wind"
 
   
Made in nl
Fierce Foe-Render





's-Gravenzande

I find myself agreeing partially with ph34r, the fact that most of it is drybrushed silver is kind of a letdown although I don't think he read it because you clearly state it was mithril silver used... I'd suggest boltgun metal as an alternative

For mold lines, you just need to practice critically examining literally every piece before you put it together or of course, wait for people to point them out... in this case the fusion blaster, right arm, both legs... ah well

You say you've just got to outline the armour... there's still a fair bit of 'armour' that -could- be painted, and would probably look better if you did so shoulder pads, weird crotch armour thing, possibly the kneepads... plus there are some cloth sections on the arms, under the shoulder pads, that certainly wouldn't be silver

Looks nice enough so far, however, and you have a nice effect going on with the fusion blaster

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2011/08/20 07:48:37


 
   
Made in nl
Paramount Plague Censer Bearer





In your wardrobe, looking for Narnia.

I agree with Bere. The idea is nice but there is quite a lot of detail lost in all that metal. Try picking them out with some different colours and your model will look even better!

   
Made in gb
Hacking Shang Jí





Bournemouth, England

Decent glow on the gun!

Need more 's in my life!  
   
Made in gb
Pete Haines





Up North

I really like this, however there is just a little bit too much black/silver for my tastes, maybe do the shoulder pads or groin blue aswell? Loving the gun glow.

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Made in gb
Mekboy Hammerin' Somethin'






Kneepads, Crotch piece/guard thig and shoulders need to go blue grey, which should be highlighted a little more and the cloth sections need to be some other color like a light blue grey for a bit of contrast, plus that horrific mold line on the backpack.... It needs to go. I suggest a flat of square needle file for removal of such moldlines, flat ones are usefull as you can run them along a grinder or dremel so that the edge dosen't have an abrasive on it...

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Made in be
Scarred Ultramarine Tyrannic War Veteran





The Fortress Of Macragge

looks great imo

5000pts W15-D10-L6



 
   
Made in ca
Space Marine Scout with Sniper Rifle





Canada

Thanks all, I don't know I'm pretty skeptical about painting more armour, I think I was sort of trying to keep the stealth aspect present wilst instead of just leaving it black dry brushing it for a nice effect. I definitely still have to do armour outlines, and a gloss varnish on the optical lense, and get rid of the mold lines. Aside from that it looks pretty tabletop standard to me . HOWEVER; all of your suggestions I will still take in to consideration, and may just have to test the waters a little bit . I am looking forward to finishing my first devilfish or pirannah to show you all, as I have big plans for the effect I demonstrated on the FB on this XV25 for the engines and various other components of my precious aircraft. Thanks again for all your feed back, compliments, and suggestions!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2011/08/20 18:02:44


"I will ward of your enemies as felt cloth protects one from the wind"
 
   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka






Would it not be easier to remove mold lines before priming?

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Made in gb
Mekboy Hammerin' Somethin'






absolutly unless you want to re-prime the model leave the moldlines alone now, just learn for next time, unless you can touch up the primer coat somehow?? I thought the stealth portion of the armour worked similar to the lictor, no one paints Lictors as transparent do they?

Actualy that something I always wanted to do a clear plastic lictor..... Drool.

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Made in nl
Fierce Foe-Render





's-Gravenzande

mullet_steve wrote:absolutly unless you want to re-prime the model leave the moldlines alone now, just learn for next time, unless you can touch up the primer coat somehow?? I thought the stealth portion of the armour worked similar to the lictor, no one paints Lictors as transparent do they?

Actualy that something I always wanted to do a clear plastic lictor..... Drool.

I've seen a few clear stealths, never a lictor... that would be sweet

But yeah, stealthsuits themselves aren't exactly stealthy... just look at the things it's the stealth field generator thing that makes them work. Better to paint armour plates and rely on fluff than leave a model that could have looked better

 
   
 
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