My first attempt at dipping (pictures)

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**ZombyJezuz**

Hi there, I heard of this wonderful process called dipping and figured I'd give it a try! I did a little research and rather then spend $40-50 on army painter products I decided to try the alternatives (costing around $8-10). I'm pleased with the result, it was fast and looks good, however it could be better, and that's where I'm hoping y'all can come in!

here's the step by step of how I started and where I finished, I neglected to clean up the mold lines as I was in a hurry

At the moment of posting the model has been drying for about 3 hours now.

Spoiler:

The only thing I'm not too fond of is how brown it is, I figure this is due to the "dip" used, any suggestions?

**Emperors_Champion**

Hmm. . . Imho opinion, there's a reason why the army painter is so much more expensive. I'm not sure on the conversion rate but over here I payed £17 for a tin when I started my skaven. I've done the whole army plus other models plus giving some to mates and it doesn't even look like i've used any. It goes a long way and can be thinned with turps/white spirit to get different results.

As for your man, the dip hasn't really done what its supposed to. The painting up till then is fine for a dipped army. Nice and tidy.

But honestly, get the really stuff.

P.s I found it better to apply with a brush!

**IK-Painter**

Maybe you should get a dark-brown tone for dipping - the light brown doesn't go too well with the greys of your IG mini.

Also, you could drybrush some hard edge highlights on the black areas - helmet, shoulderpads and weapon. When you dip it, it should help blend the highlight in with the rest of your figure - otherwise the black areas might be a little bland.

Post a picture when the dip has had a chance to completely dry. Maybe till then it will have darkened a bit.

Cheers,

IK-Painter

**ZombyJezuz**

I don't think the dip is gonna get darker, however I do like the effect it had, if only it was darker. I think I'm gonna give minwax one more go with a darker color, if it doesn't work I'll cut my loses and try army painter. At our LGS a couple "pro" painters whispered in the managers ear about how dipping is "cheating" so to keep the peace the manager doesn't stock army painter.

**fenrir1997**

Strong tone is Walnut if I remember correctly, and Dark tone is Tudor. Please correct me if I'm wrong, and double check either way.

Yeah, It worked well for the tone, but the brown and the grey just aren't doing it for me (imo).

Try another test run with a shade that has more black than brown.

ZombyJezuz wrote: At our LGS a couple "pro" painters whispered in the managers ear about how dipping is "cheating" so to keep the peace the manager doesn't stock army painter.

Tell them to go pound sand

Army painter dips are just another technique in a painters arsenal. It's the same as calling Dry Brushing cheating, ya know? I'm a pretty good painter (imo lol) and I use the dips occasionally.
Let them paint their miniatures the way they want, these guys are yours

**AustonT**

Minwax water based color deep water Would perhaps be a more appropriate color, you would have to dip again into polyclear for the protection provided by polyclear.
That may help, it may also be outside your comfort zone.

**FallenAngel**

I have no experience whatsoever with dipping, but i agree with the other's point, the brown doesn't seem to go. If i ever tried dipping, i must admit i'd prefer applying with a a brush, but then again i might as well just buy the GW washes

**AustonT**

Although I do not prefer them, dips provide a hard satin varnish that washes do not. It's like a side benefit.

**Norsehawk**

A valiant first attempt!

Let me first concur with my colleagues who stated that you did not use the proper color of dip for the paint scheme of the model. Others have suggested that you try the Tudor color for your next attempt and I agree with that suggestion, the much darker tone of the polyshade will help by shading the colors rather than adding a light/medium brown to it. Have you ever thought about starting a Deathwing or Imperial Fists army, or perhaps Tomb Kings or Vampire Counts? The pecan shade you have would work a lot better over whites/light brown/cream colors that those armies use in great amounts.

Personal preference here regarding the dipping, I find that you get nicer coverage when you paint on the stain with a brush, it's not quite as fast, but it lets you really address issues like too much dip in one area and not enough in another.

**Brother SRM**

Not a fan of the results here. Just use a Badab Black wash over the cloth and metal and an Ogryn Flesh wash on his face. About the same amount of work and it'll look far better.

**MrH**

Brother SRM wrote:Not a fan of the results here. Just use a Badab Black wash over the cloth and metal and an Ogryn Flesh wash on his face. About the same amount of work and it'll look far better.

Agreed.

**AustonT**

If we are suggesting washes I think I would go Asurman Blue over the armor and cloth, and flesh on the face.

**Kilkrazy**

Leave it to dry fully and see the result.

If it still looks too brown, try a darker shade of dip and get more of it off the model by shaking/flicking/spinning/dabbing.

**ZombyJezuz**

I'm gonna give the Tudor a try tonight. The model has been dry for about 15 hours now, from a distance the model looks great, when picked up and inspected you can see the pool of brown on his uniform.

As for washes against dips, Once I refine my process and get faster the dips ill be far more effective for the time being, I deploy in 2 months and would like to have a fully painted guard army before that time. With the dips I can paint 10-20 troops a week, one color at a time and dip them and fill my ranks a LOT faster. Also the protective seal that the varnish applies is really nice!

Automatically Appended Next Post:
Say that I wanted to apply transfers to my troops, would it be better to do this before or after I apply the sealant?

**AustonT**

After

**ZombyJezuz**

I could not find Tudor at the store, so I picked up Bombay Mahogany, I think it might be too dark though. I'll have picture up as it dries...

however, as far as the Pecan model goes, this is the end result after applying a seal.

I think the seal helped a bit, and after drying all night and into the morning the final effect isn't nearly as bad as I thought. The uniform looks dirty and worn, which isn't so bad, and from a distance the mini looks fine.

Also, rather then starting a new thread I figured I'd post my first ever conversion on here as well, Veterans with shotguns.

Used some excess flamer bits I had, I think they look great, very distinct and will work on the table.

**AustonT**

I think ANY shade of brown over those colors is going to look wonky.
Sveral people have suggested black, which IMHO is a bit much. And I vociferously suggest blue.

**ZombyJezuz**

AustonT wrote:I think ANY shade of brown over those colors is going to look wonky.
Sveral people have suggested black, which IMHO is a bit much. And I vociferously suggest blue.

If I were to wash it that might work, but as far as dipping is concerned I'd face the same issue that I'm having now. The skin is in such contrast with the armor/uniform that if I went black or blue the skin would look off, but the uniform would like good, or stay with brown and the uniform looks dirty. I think I might have to bight the bullet and buy Army Painter dip or just wash them with different washes.

**AustonT**

/disagree
forgive me but I often save myself the time of finding other people pics by using my own but this guys face is washed blue, it looks perfectly natural and looking at your previous dip very little of the varnish settled on the face. I use blue for more reddish faced characters and I think it looks good. my astorath was washed in blue to but to my eye it looks black...but still natural.

**ZombyJezuz**

/proved wrong

I see, looks great, and very natural. I'll look into a blue wash/dip.

**AustonT**

If I was really on the ball Id find the video I got the idea from, which is one of Les Bursley's.
There are also a fair number of blue shadowed veterens in the 4ed C:SM but at the time I refused to like anything in that codex based on its assault on anyone not an ultrasmurf.

**syypher**

If your paint base is going to be grey and black like it is I would suggest black or dark midnightish blue dip. Not brown.

**Scott-S6**

As other people have mentioned, for grey you want either black or blue dip/wash

**ZombyJezuz**

I was unable to find Tudor, and according to the chart at Home Depot it doesn't exist. However, I did find a *new* minwax stain called Classic Black, comes in both a gloss and satin (I grabbed satin). I've dipped a few of my guardsmen in it and I can say it's MUCH better then the previous attempts, pictures to come as it dries.

**Norsehawk**

ZombyJezuz wrote:I was unable to find Tudor, and according to the chart at Home Depot it doesn't exist. However, I did find a *new* minwax stain called Classic Black, comes in both a gloss and satin (I grabbed satin). I've dipped a few of my guardsmen in it and I can say it's MUCH better then the previous attempts, pictures to come as it dries.

Sounds good, one thing you can do if you don't like the way the black does the skin is to dip the model normally (I paint it on myself but whatever works for you) and then after sealing, paint the details as you like them, for example do the skin and then wash with ogryn flesh on that part only.

**ZombyJezuz**

gave these things about 30 hours to dry, haven't applied a seal yet (they're still shiny).

Spoiler:

The middle guy was the first I dipped, and I just shook him off and laid him off to the side, the others I dipped and cleaned areas with a napkin. Gonna clean 'em after I dip from here on to prevent pooling and making he hands/face less dark.

**AustonT**

Once you dip black you never go back. Unless you change armies.

**mwnciboo**

I used to dip, but Now I brush on a thinned version. I mix up batches of QS in a load of WEE tubes i acquired, about 15ml with 5ml of white spirit.

I use this on 28mm 40k, and also FOW. The key to get it to look good, is to dullcote it with 2-3 light sprays, then a very light drybrush highlight like my tigers below.

My tigers after varnishing (remember decals 1st!)

Then Dullcote (3 light coats) an exceptionally light drybrush of the lightest colour.

Don't let the Wash pool, as it will form an uneven coat and ruin the model. A nice even coat will nicely shade a miniature and add a sense of depth to the colouring. I have 3 different pots on the go, one light tone, one strong tone and one dark tone. The Tins will probably last me years.

**fenrir1997**

@Zombiejesus: That turned out quite well imo.