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has anyone had experience with Vallejo's new line of Surface primers? I just picked up black,white ,grey, olive green and what looks like Desert Yellow and I am greatly impressed. Except for one thing, When I tried it in my airbrush it formed a skin inside the paint cup and clogged up something fierce. Took a while to ungunk it but its suppose to be airbrush ready. Anyone have a similar experience with this? I dont see this in the model air primers so I'm wondering if it needs to be thinned out but will that affect the adhesion to the figure?

They do work amazingly well just brushed on for when you need to prime in silence =). Heres the Krootox i tested it with. Then blocked in the main colors, highlighted the skin then washed the whole thing in Devlan Mud.





Gotta love a Smiling Krootox eh?

I've just primed a whole bunch of stuff in grey, got the black too (didn't see colours at the store!), way way cheaper and more effective than rattlecan. Very pleased with them.

But, yeah, it gums up in the AB cup pretty good, and around the needle cover. CT / MEK clears it reasonably well though. I think it slightly with Tamiya thinner, and don't suffer clogs while spraying - think it's just the surface skin forming. I don't use the cup cover often, will try that to see if it makes a difference.

Vallejo Polyeurathane primers are really great to use but I encountered the same issue with my Pasche Talon's cup and needle cover.
Next time I'll use it I'll trying with some thinner.

Had the same problems with my Paasche Talon and a Rich RB-2. The primer tends to gunk up even more bad, when it comes in contact with my Airbrush Cleaner I've noticed.

An approach that works for me was: Spray out the rest of the cup when finished, rinse and spray with water 1-2 times and then use the Cleaner. This way, I've not encountered a single clogging issue with the primer.

Other than that, these are really awesome. I use the grey primer and then pre-shade with white and black before I lay down my basecoat - really a great product.

Cheers,


IK-Painter

You can add a retarder too to keep it from forming a skin and thin with just water or a water glycerine mix

Looks interesting. I might have to check these out

great idea about the retarder and the cup over. Thanks. I'll try a few drops of slo-dri in my next attempt. Hopefully it wont change the properties too much.

Also do not coat your model. No need. You just need enough primer on it provide some tooth for the basecoat to grab ahold of.

Synchro wrote:Also do not coat your model. No need. You just need enough primer on it provide some tooth for the basecoat to grab ahold of.

The Krootox wasn't airbrushed, it was brushed onto the raw metal. It looks like its thick but its really not. The primer is actaully very thin and flows on quite nicely.

Synchro wrote:Also do not coat your model. No need. You just need enough primer on it provide some tooth for the basecoat to grab ahold of.

This is good advise but its not always true. Coloured primers, which Vallejos new PU line has in spades are meant to coat.