Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Hi Everyone

I thought id post my Banana-Rama Soulgrinder and how i painted him. Someone might like eye rape colors like me and want to paint a huge big bright thing, right?

I play chaos daemons and i didnt want the traditional coloring for my army. I like bright colors. Really bright!

I always start with a white undercoat/basecoat. Helps me get brighter finished colors.

At the time i made my Banana-Rama i was about 2 months into the hobby and not at the learning to convert models stage yet. So this is a stock standard soulgrinder/defiler from GW.

Step1.
Build the darn thing...




Step 2.
Once you have picked your colors start with your basecoat. Mine is Golden yellow from GW.



Step 3.
Once you have your base color, 2 coats. You can start to layer your blending colours. Since im a huge bright colour fan and lots of it i picked quite a few colors. Many more than most will say is ok. Dont flame me. I like to be different. I was told when i first walked into the GW store that 3 colors is what you should work with. I dont use less than 7. This is just what works for me, maybe not everyone, but it works well for me. Develope your own style.
The colors i chose to blend/work with are: Golden yellow > Scorpion green >Snot green >Ice blue >Enchanted blue >Liche Purple.
YES THATS ALOT OF COLORS!!! And like 25 hours of blending.. Trust me, my crippled sore fingers know...

I wanted the "Radio-Active" look on him.



Step 4.
After i had blended all my colors and gotten the look i kinda wanted. I started to highlight. I used warlock purple mixed with white. Scab red. Sunburst yellow on the front yellow parts.





Step 5.
I painted the machine body with chaos black and have started highlighting with Adeptus battlegrey. I hate HATE working with black so this highlighting part has taken about a month to do. Its still not finished. I cant stand looking at black for longer than a hour!



Step 6.
I painted the panels on his legs purple and went over with Enchanted blue rings then Ice blue then white to try to build up some pattern. I only did this on the last 4 legs NOT the front 2.



Step 7.
The sword i have painted in Hawk turkoise and built up to a white.





Most of him is finished and i play with him like this. No-one has said anything about leg plates or not finished highlighting. To be honest i dont think anyone really notices.

I get alot of "WoW, thats really bright" comments. Thats great when i get those. Means i achieved what i hoped to. Him with the rest of my rainbow army really looks bright and colorful. I know lore says the warp is all bad and doom and gloom, but in my warp, you need sunnies!

Will post a finished picture once i finish painting his leg plates and highlighting the grey...

Hope you like Thanks for viewing!

XX

That's awesome; I really can't go past OTT colorful xenos.

I really must post pictures of my Green/Yellow/Red/White Nids sometime...

I should also add just incase anyone wants to know how to blend all the rainbow colors i used.

Golden yellow > Scorpion green >Snot green >Ice blue >Enchanted blue >Liche Purple

Golden yellow > Scorpion green ~ I use plain yellow, then 2 parts yellow to 1 part green, then green. For this, i found personally that blending the green all the way into the yellow just looks funny. You kinda want to aim for a un-ripe banana. If you look at those they are this greenish color with maybe a patch or two in yellow. The contrast makes this work great. Dont blend to much.

Scorpion green > Snot green ~ one coat scorpion green, then 1 to 1 mix of both, then plain snot green. Depending on what your painting you can skip the middle 1:1 mix. Sometimes you can just blend straight from Scorpion green into Ice blue. Thats a 1:1 mix if you go that way.

Snot green > Ice blue ~ ahh tricky part most of all.. Even though blue makes green with yellow(primary colors etc) its tricky to blend this without looking like a mess. After the full Snot green color i take a 1Green to 2Blue mix. I find if thats to "bluey" i just dip a brush in green and mix till i get a slightly blueish color more than green. Then i just do a pure blue coat.

Ice blue > Enchanted blue ~ simple 1:1 mix after pure blue. Then a pure enchanted blue coat.

Enchanted blue > liche purple ~ I actually didnt mix these. I highlighted or low lighted (whatever term you prefer) with the dark purple. If you like you can lighten the purple with white and paint the veins/spine in that, then use dark purple to go in an highlight/low light. You may even get away with not using any purple if you like.

Highlight the golden yellow front bits with Sunburst yellow. Dont water down. Dont dry brush. This is where you take your light yellow colored brush from GW and you painstakingly sit there picking parts to make bright yellow. If you dry brush this it will look to "uniform" like. I tried it and it doesnt look good. You want to aim for a patchy highlighting. Bits here or there are bright yellow.

Paint the leads/cords/tubes in black and dry brush with mithril silver. or you could paint them with lighting going through them if you wish. My patience isnt that great for that

XX