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I'm considering picking up a metal model or two for my 'nids, but I'd like to convert them a bit using some plastic parts. Would super glue be enough to hold everything together, or would this be a job that would also call for green stuff or some other kind of putty? I've got milliput on hand already.

I like to use both superglue and greenstuff when attaching plastic and metal together. Makes for a strong hold.

GW super glue, Works like a charm for me

Superglue works best. Just remember less is more.

Barksdale wrote:Superglue works best. Just remember less is more.

+1. I highly suggest "Loctite Control Gel" superglue. It's less brittle than normal super glue.

use some super glue (rather than plastic glue) and maybe pin the parts too if you want to be safe

Get some instant cure spray and use superglue. You will thank me later.

My usual approach to gluing metal and plastic models together:

1) I usually favor pinning, especially if the metal part is heavy (weapon arms on plastic models as an example).

2) Superglue. I find less need for instant cure spray if I pinned the model first.

3) Green stuff to fill in gaps if needed. I feel like this also makes the bonds a little bit stronger.

Pinning is good practice.

If not pinning, then I suggest a thick "gel" superglue. Even better is a rubberized supperglue as it is not as brittle as regular superglue.

Gorilla Rubberized or BSI IC2000 are two readily available rubberized superglues.

Here's my post which is a nice primer on superglue types and uses.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/385642.page#3119811

Kreedos wrote:Get some instant cure spray and use superglue. You will thank me later.

I must second this... Instant cure (basicly rubbing alcohol) and superglue... maily cause the instant cure ACTUALLY works. even with heavy peuter on Peuter!

Or use superglue and the cheapest posibly instacurer for superglue...tap water, instacures superglue instantly (not running tap water though, that tends to form foamy warts on the surface)

Just ensure that you have NO superglue on you and none of the accelerant either.

Superglues are exothermic (they give off heat as they cure).
Accelerants decrease the time they need to cure, so the temperature is ramped up to compensate. You can get a nasty burn out of it.

Keep in mind, that a accelerated superglue may not have the same strength as "regular" dried one - the bonds are supposed to be a bit more brittle that way.

Depends. If it is mostly metal and you are attaching a small plastic bit like a gun then super glue should be fine on it's own.

But if it has more weight to it, like a metal arm or melee weapon, it would likely be better to pin it.

Whoa whoa whoa here. Not to threadjack, but you can use rubbing alcohol as kicker? Because I hate ordering replacement bottles of kicker.

I don't know about rubbing alcohol, but corn starch works too.

But how are you ever running out of kicker. You only need a tiny droplet to start a chain reaction across the whole thing.

Rented Tritium wrote:But how are you ever running out of kicker. You only need a tiny droplet to start a chain reaction across the whole thing.

I have my "home" setup, which has a mister. That one lasts a long time. However, I have an "away" bag which has an eyedropper-tipped small plastic bottle in it of kicker. That evaporates really quickly, even when I put the dropper bottle into a baggie.

edited for clarity, not an actual eyedropper

IK-Painter wrote:Keep in mind, that a accelerated superglue may not have the same strength as "regular" dried one - the bonds are supposed to be a bit more brittle that way.

This is true. All this discussion about kicker can be misleading. Kicker will give you a faster bond, but it will not give you a stronger bond and it may give you a weaker bond. A weaker bond is fine for plastic or small metal bits with a wide bonding surface. heavier metal bits with smaller bonding areas are not well served by a weaker bond.

For a stronger bond you need one or more of the following
-Pinning
-Thicker "gel" glue
-A ruberized glue (better than the above)
-Epoxy. (even better than the above, but is overkill for small bits.

It's much better to use a stronger glue and with clamps, leaning, etc find a way to keep it in that position long enough to set properly.

Ouze wrote:Whoa whoa whoa here. Not to threadjack, but you can use rubbing alcohol as kicker? Because I hate ordering replacement bottles of kicker.

Yup, I use the stuff at work all the time, it's pretty much the same stuff. But don't take my word, test it on something safe first!

Super Glue.
Don't use the kicker if you don't have too.
Pin the part for best strength.