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Yep.... >.>
plastic cement? super glue?

"Gundam" does not tell anyone any amount of information necessary to tell you what type of glue to use.


It depends on what plastic it is made of.

ph34r wrote:"Gundam" does not tell anyone any amount of information necessary to tell you what type of glue to use.


It depends on what plastic it is made of.

I thought gundams all have the same material?

it says:

*PS *PE * ABS
*pp (Bag)

Tamiya Cement Thin, or Mr. Cement is the best. The japanese glues are the best for just about any styrene kits. They wick into all of the crevices and dry fast. Using the Japanese glues, there's almost no need for putty. Also the fact that most joints will fall on a panel line. American glues are crap generally speaking.

orkork wrote:Tamiya Cement Thin, or Mr. Cement is the best. The japanese glues are the best for just about any styrene kits. They wick into all of the crevices and dry fast. Using the Japanese glues, there's almost no need for putty. Also the fact that most joints will fall on a panel line. American glues are crap generally speaking.

How about Testor plastic cement?

Testors plastic cement is gakky. Unless you need a lot of time to reposition the part then it helps. But because it's thick, and goopy, it can cause problems.

Yes, Testors glue is kinda bad.

But does those gundam plastic melt with plastic cement?
or i need normal super g lue?

As to whether polycement will work:

The PS will.
The PP (Polypropylene - usually used for bags) doubtful.
The ABS won't (needs a more active solvent than the usual 1% toluene solution used in polycements).

Testors make SEVERAL kinds of polycements, from thick and gloopy to thin, runny stuff - just like Tamiya, Revell and Humbrol.

Model Master is the thin stuff, generally (it's a Testors brand).

chromedog wrote:As to whether polycement will work:

The PS will.
The PP (Polypropylene - usually used for bags) doubtful.
The ABS won't (needs a more active solvent than the usual 1% toluene solution used in polycements).

Testors make SEVERAL kinds of polycements, from thick and gloopy to thin, runny stuff - just like Tamiya, Revell and Humbrol.

Model Master is the thin stuff, generally (it's a Testors brand).

Hmm, k i'll give it a shot, if it works it works, if it doesnt....

Snap fit >.>

Snap-fit generally doesn't REQUIRE gluing.

And those kits will generally fit together much better (and allow articulated movement) better than a GW kit.

LunaHound wrote:But does those gundam plastic melt with plastic cement?
or i need normal super g lue?

Modeling cement is bonds plastic together by melting the plastic whereas superglue just hardens to a brittle piece. The Japanese glues also have a small built in brush in the cap. The brush is very thin and is extremely helpful in controlling where glue is applied. They can also be helpful in dealing with seams. Here's a example of using the Japanese cements:

http://www.ipmshawaii.freewebsitehosting.com/TG003-Seam%20Filling.pdf


Once you use the Japanese glues, you will NEVER go back to any other type. Just remember to buy the thin formulas. The thicker glues serve a different purpose.

Ambroid Proweld liquid plastic cement will do the polystyrene and ABS.

http://www.houseofhobbies.com/amprlice.html

The polypropylene parts are the small black tubes which allow the joints to articulate. They are push fit. You should not cement them unless you want the model to be held permanently in one position.

If you do cement the PP joints, I would recommend using Araldite and cementing well around the joint, as PP is quite slick and will throw off most cements. In other words, you cement from polystyrene to polystyrene. It may be possible to do it using polystyrene cement depending on the design of the joint.

You don't have to glue traditional gundam models actually. They can be fully mobile. Thats why they have those rubber joints.