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The other thread on GW varnish made me think of this question.  I have a very old can of GW Matte Varnish (before it was called Purity Seal) that works just fine (knock on wood.)  However, it will soon be used up, and I will need to buy another can of varnish.  I've heard some very good things about Testors Dullcote. 

My one question is: I saw that Testors Dullcote is an enamel.  Does it come in acrylic?  Do you guys just spray the enamel over the acrylic, and it works well?  Do you have any problems with paint rubbing off?  How does dullcote work for adding weathing and stuff over top of the varnish, since it is an enamel?

Is there any thing I should be aware of if I use an enamel varnish over acrylic paints?  Obviously, if it comes in acrylic, I don't have anything to worry about....but the only Dullcote I have ever seen has been enamel.

Thanks,
Hordini

One of the big difference when I switched from GW's Purity Seal to Testor's Dullcote I saw was that the Testor varnish is truly *dull*. I can easily see the difference in between the two types of varnish.

From friends who have been using Dullcote for some time now, they report that it is not as resilient to gaming usage as some other types of varnish. Paint will supposedly chip off more easily. I have not personally witnessed that but I've always been ultra careful with my gaming models.

The recommended solution was to spray some tougher varnish over your miniature before you spray the Dullcote. I've heard about it, but never done it myself.

As for the enamel/acrylic debate you are evoking, I couldn't say. I'm not really aware of all those things. *little blonde laughter*

JF

Okay.  Anyone have some recommendations for some stronger varnish then?  I'm extremely careful with my minis...but it's not me I'm worried about.

Is there any varnish I can use by itself, or is it best to use something else and they hit it with dullcote?

All recomendations are welcome, since my limited supply of old GW Matte Varnish is running out.

They're all enamels, but all of Testors' sprays, including Dullcote, take acrylics over them just fine. All of my FoW stuff was basecoated in using Testors sprays and painted over using Vallejo acrylics. I've also applied weathering effects after dullcoating to no harm. Have away, Hordak!

(also, see Asmodai's thread about primers & sealers, I went off the board there... )

Just to clarify, there are actually two different types of Testors Dullcote. One is the spray enamel, and the other is a square jar of lacquer. Every month or so on one of the modelling boards I frequent, somebody posts that they've had trouble with the spraycan dullcote, followed by a dozen people who say they've never had a problem. For me, I have used the spray in the past but find the odor is really strong, and the finish isn't as flat as I wanted. I've been told the lacquer in a jar is much more reliable and flatter.

If you have access to an airbrush, I've also heard great things about Humbrol clear flat enamel, and I've had great luck with Gunze Aqueus clear flat acrylic. Polyscale is supposed to be good too, but don't know what type it is. The Enamels of course will be a tougher finish over the long haul. I've also been told you can mix up a great flat using Future, Tamiya 'Flat Base', and thinned judiciously with rubbing alchol. If you do airbrush, make sure to keep the pressure down and thin it out, this helps to prevent fogging. And if it's really humid out, don't even try doing a flat coat of any type.

Most of my own stuff I use Future to seal it, as the stuff is quite tough, then decals, another coat of future over the decals, weathering (if appropriate), then Gunze to flatten everything.

-Hans

(Side Note: Tamiya 'Flat Base' is NOT a paint, do NOT use this stuff straight from the jar. It's basically a pure flattening pigment, if you use it straight from the jar it will make everything a thick chalky white. It's used to make gloss paints into flats. I think Gunze also offers a similar product, you'll know right away which one it is. If it's thick and gloppy, it's the wrong stuff.)

If you're concerned about Testor's Dulcote chipping, I suggest spraying your model with a glossy varnish (which is a stronger varnish than satin/dull varnishes) and letting it cure, then re-coating the mini with the Dulcote.

I haven't experienced any problems with Testors Dulcote and it sufficiently eliminates the shine from models I have painted or dipped (wood varnish tends to be very shiny). I was also very impressed with the atomisation of the varnish - try it and you'll see what I mean.

The enamel will cover acrylic paints just fine. I don't have experience trying weathering techniques on top of the enamel topcoat, so I can't help you there. As for whether or not it matters that it is an enamel - it shouldn't matter until you try to strip the paint. Enamels paints have been tougher for me to remove than acrylics (if a mini has been painted with enamel paints, I'd rather buy a new one than try to strip it). I imagine a varnish topcoat would be similar.

I feel that Testors Dulcote is the the finest, most readily available matte varnish around. I've been able to find it at all model/hobby stores, I've been satisfied with it's performance over other brands (Citadel, Krylon, Windsor & Newton, Armoury), and I've never had a bad experience with it. Shake well and best of luck!

Thanks guys.

I assume Testors makes a gloss varnish as well?  "Glosscote" perhaps?  Would that be good to spray on first, for good protection, and then spray on Dullcote to take off the shine?  I've never used a gloss varnish before, so I guess if I need to start doublecoating, I should find out what combination works best.

Again, all input is appreciated.

I neglected to mention Testors Dulcote has protected my miniatures quite well. I haven't had any problems with chipping or cracking during normal gaming use.

Although her web site hasn't been updated since October 2005, Jennifer Haley has some useful information on sealing and finishing miniatures: http://www.wegotgame.net/jen/finish.html

Sorry for no linky linky magic, but Dakka Dakka has been toublesome. I hope her insights help. If you double coat your minis, allow the gloss varnish to fully cure before spraying the next layer. If you don't, bad things will happen - even if you're only spraying on an additional layer of gloss.

Here's an edited version of what I wrote in Asmodai's (similar) post in regards to sealers:

I use a combination of Future Floor Finish and Dullcote for sealers. The Future Floor Finish (apparently called Johnson's Kleer in the UK, in the land down under, is it Glo?) is basically clear acryilic floor finisher and easily obtainable at your local grocery store/supermarket. The stuff is nothing more than liquid acrylic medium that will self level, nd provide an excellent glossy protective coat. Tamiya Flat Base can be added to it to act provide a flat finish with the same protective qualities. You can also spray Dullcote over it to kill the gloss sheen.

Future is pretty versatile stuff, in addition to being a great sealant, it acts as a great flow aid to both regular paint and inks. I generally use a 50/50 mix Future/Water as a base for doing ink washes, though some increase the water to a 5:1 ratio or so. Just add ink to color (obviously the more ink, the darker the wash). Varying the saturation of the ink, and increasing the amount of future, it also makes a great glaze medium. Best of all, the stuff is cheap, cheap, cheap. I bought a bottle three years ago and I've barely put a dent in it.Truly great stuff, and it even smells good too (tastes horrible though, it WILL break you out of any brush licking habit!)

I've also used Testor's Dullcote and Glosscote with no problems. I do prefer to use future as the protective coat (it often goes down as a final light, light ink wash), and Dullcote to provide the flat sheen (since it's easier to spray). The key thing with sprays: FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS! If it's too cold, or too hot, or too humid, or if you spray too close or too far, it can and will royaly fubar your figs. From big globs of paint, bubbles, paint glopping up in the recesses, but not sticking to the outer edges, etc.. Lots of pain and misery can be averted by making sure ya follows the directions!

There yas go!