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Made in us
Guardsman with Flashlight




Oklahoma, USA

Hi Hi! I have been out of the loop for some time, and I was wondering if anyone had put together an essay or the like on the different types of glue available to us modelers. I had a couple questions on the subject…

Plastic- what would you recommend for the quickest setting? Best results? Least amount of “string”? I remember the testors variety always dissolved the plastic if you weren't careful with the amount you used...

Metal? Quickest setting? Least hassle? Tube or bottle? Most cost effective?

Thanks!

"A casual stroll through the lunatic asylum shows that faith does not prove anything."
-Friedrich Nietzsche
 
   
Made in gb
Lord Commander in a Plush Chair





Beijing

All plastic glues will melt things if you go mad with them.

I always recommend Revell Contacta because of the applicator tube. You can be precise and sparing in its use. Humbrol also do bottles with a similar tube and that's good too.
   
Made in us
Guardsman with Flashlight




Oklahoma, USA

Much appreciated thanks! Who carries 'em?

"A casual stroll through the lunatic asylum shows that faith does not prove anything."
-Friedrich Nietzsche
 
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

I use Cyanoacrylate for everything under the sun that isn't transparent plastic, for that I use PVA. Some people insist that you have to use plastic glue for plastics, but super glue works just fine.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Super glue is also easier to take back apart when you want to change something. With plastic cement, you are breaking out a saw.
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

Rented Tritium wrote:Super glue is also easier to take back apart when you want to change something. With plastic cement, you are breaking out a saw.


Exactly. Don't like that arm? pop it right off.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in us
Guardsman with Flashlight




Oklahoma, USA

Groovy thanks! Approximately what should I be looking at for expenditures to complete aprox 200 minis & 8 vehicles?

"A casual stroll through the lunatic asylum shows that faith does not prove anything."
-Friedrich Nietzsche
 
   
Made in au
Unstoppable Bloodthirster of Khorne





Melbourne .au

How long is a piece of string? It's a bit of a silly question.

It depends on which type and brand of glue you buy, who or where you buy it from, the kinds of miniatures and vehicles (some will use more than others) and how much you use when you assemble stuff.

Go buy a few tubes/whatever of whichever glue you decide to use and put your models together. If you need more, buy more.

   
Made in us
Guardsman with Flashlight




Oklahoma, USA

I took your advise and got the Cyanoacrylate... I had now I dea they came in different blends, so I got the middle of the road viscosity one... The dude at Hobbytown was very helpful. And just my luck, there were 2 groups of people playing WHF and WH40K! As soon as I get clear a spot to start modelling, I'll post pics!

It ended up being $4.99US a bottle and should get me through most of my projects...

Thanks again!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2011/11/26 22:26:50


"A casual stroll through the lunatic asylum shows that faith does not prove anything."
-Friedrich Nietzsche
 
   
Made in gb
Lord Commander in a Plush Chair





Beijing

Gel superglues are much easier to use.

The runny stuff is horrible, it gets everywhere especially if you want to use it in volume, for small amounts it's ok. There's no way you can make a heap of models with superglue and not get any on your hands and the fumes are nasty - which is why I use it sparingly.

You're much better off with plastic glue for vehicles which you'll never want to break apart later.
   
Made in us
Yellin' Yoof





Honolulu, Hawaii

Japanese glues are the best for plastic. The thin ones wick into all the crevices and they dry really fast. They also come with a little brush applicator which makes them really easy to use. Look for Mr. Cement or Tamiya Thin glue. Testors glue is crap. Unless you need a very long working time and like to wait for things to dry overnight, then use it. Zap a Gap thin and thick work great for non-plastic stuff. Don't forget the accelerator (zip kicker) too.O

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2011/11/26 23:00:36


 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Pa, USA

Yes, plastic glues work amazingly for plastic, but as mentioned before, it's NOT reversible.

Purchased some 2nd hand SM that were plastic glued, had to grab a utility knife to get the darn things apart.

So...

http://www.amazon.com/Henkel-Corporation-Super-Ultra-1109181/dp/B003TP2TBQ/ref=pd_cp_e_3

(Please also see: http://www.reliableplant.com/Read/18008/loctite-super-glue-sets-guinness-record-for-lift)

Probably 1 of the best super-glues you can find. Gel insures that:
- it won't run, causing sticky messes everywhere and instantly glued fingers
- stronger sheer strength, or strength of the bond against pressures from indirect directions (a major weakness in Cyanoacrylate)

Plus, this brand has an easy-to-use applicator.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2011/11/27 01:14:45


Why is it that only those who have never fought in a battle are so eager to be in one? 
   
Made in gb
Jovial Plaguebearer of Nurgle




England

I really like thin superglue for a lot of applications but there are some jobs it turns into an abject nightmare, I'd highly recommend all hobbyists get themselves a gel superglue as a backup if nothing else.

On the plastic front, Revell's contacta applicator really is excellent. GW's fat clumsy nozzle has often reduced me to putting a drip of glue on a tile and applying it with an old brush to get some semblance of control, and then you get the most unbearable strings.

Did you know? The Reach belongs to the Forsworn. 
   
Made in gb
Jovial Plaguebearer of Nurgle




England

Also of note is that contacta is a proper liquid and doesn't form the aforementioned hideous strings, and you actually get a better bond with it as well imo

Did you know? The Reach belongs to the Forsworn. 
   
 
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