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I just got a rather large order of Plasticard today, and after messing with it, I realized that my exacto knife isn't really cutting the thicker stuff well. I have a hot knife, but that simply generates too much heat and not in the correct areas for me to use it effectively.

So how do you all cut your plasticard? Also, how do you get straight cuts, as opposed to a wavy looking edge?

I use an exacto knife with the tip broken off the tip (happens normally for me)

You don't need to cut all the way through, I have found that you can score the plastic and bend and break it with relative ease.

For a straight edge I just trace out a line and cut along it carefully.

Interested in seeing what other people do as my methods seems quite primitive.

Score and snap is the method used since time immemorial (at least since the 70s).

Don't try cutting all the way through. Score, snap and sand the edges back.

I use a rubber-backed steel rule with my x-acto.
It doesn't slide around, and repeated LIGHT cuts is better than trying to push a deep one.


Although we used to use a bandsaw in the workshop for 2-4mm card - was soo much quicker (it was so that the vacformers could work with smaller sheets than what we were supplied with).

Are you using a straightedge? If not, that's your problem. The score-and-snap method is the way to go for all but the thinnest sheets of plasticard, but the edges will need a bit of cleanup afterward. I'll sometimes take a file or sandpaper to the edges, but more often than not I'll simply scrape the edge square with my knife blade, as one would remove a mold line. To echo chromedog, multiple passes with a sharp blade and light, even pressure will yield cuts that need less cleanup - high pressure with a thick, dull blade will raise significant furrows on either side of the score and leave the lowest point somewhat rounded, resulted in a less clean break.

I can only echo what has already been said.

I use a steel ruler and a fresh scalpel blade, light strokes along the ruler with the number of strokes depending on the thickness of the sheet and in how much of a hurry I am - the more hurried I am the more impatient I am with the scoring, but the more cleanup I will have to do if I shap it too soon.

However, I have also recently come across a different technique that minimises cleanup afterward. I bought a panel scriber, generally used by car modellers to change 4 door models into 2 door ones. The scriber is drawn along the surface and actually removes a thin 'hair' of the plastic, this is repeated until the desired depth of panel line is created. So by repeated going over of the same area, it is possible to carve a small, thin channel in any thickness of plasticard. Once the card is as thin as I can get without going all the way through, I just finish off the cut with my scalpel.

And it can be used on curved surfaces by marking out the line to be cut with masking tape and then carefully following that for several strokes, by which time the scriber has carved a line it is easy enough to follow with or without the tape.

Only thing I would add is for heavier card I use a extendable blade utility knife...ie Olfa
http://www.olfa.com/UtilityKnives.aspx
Come to think of it....90% of time I need to cut anything it's the OLFA.
I've had mine now for nearly 30 years.
Hope this helps

Micromark sell some specialist plastic scribers if your using lots of plasticard too

Or there always mat cutters.