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We've all seen 100 identical "Spiderman how do I stripped models?" threads, but there's one question I've barely seen asked.

What kind of scrub brushes/techniques do you use AFTER the models have been soaked? I use a nail brush for the big picture and a mascara brush to get down into the cracks. (the mascara brush is a lot more rigid than a pipe cleaner) and it works alright, but it's still a lot of work. I've found that toothbrushes are way too soft.

So what do you use? Do you have any special techniques or obscure brush shapes that work perfectly?

Last time i stripped models, I soaked them, then scrubbed with an old toothbrush - rinse repeat. They were metal models, and wasn't really worried about hurting any details, so I just gave em a rough treatment.

Yes actually. I have a multistep process. After first soak, I use a medium toothbrush. This often gets a good chunk of paint.

Second step is GW stippling brush to get the tougher paint and start working gunk out of crevices. It works fantastic till the bristles get soft!

Last step is to use dental tools to get at the stuff that is in the really deep cracks. This can be tough, though, because it is easy to damage details. But works wonders to chip off excess glue as well.

Note that between each of those steps another bath may be needed, or may not depending on how it is going.

Edit- another tip, I do any brush work mentioned above3 under water in the sink. Prevents the splatter!

I use brass, steel and plastic wire and plastic detail brushes. They look like black handled heavy duty toothbrushes. They are 50 cents each at Harbor Freight.


http://www.harborfreight.com/1-3-8-eighth-inch-x-7-inch-steel-detail-brush-40442.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-3-8-eighth-inch-x-7-inch-brass-detail-brush-40441.html

Plastic is the most durrable, Steel is in between, but gets in the cracks better than plastic. Brass gets in the finest cavities, but is the most prone to bending, so I use it last.

One tip is to brush the fig that comes out of the simple green before rinsing it. The sudsing action helps loosen the paint and makes it come off easier. Then I scrub it in water afterwards. Sometimes I'll dip the brush in simple green before I scrub it again.

Suds are your friend.

Eilif wrote:I use brass, steel and plastic wire and plastic detail brushes. They look like black handled heavy duty toothbrushes. They are 50 cents each at Harbor Freight.

Spoiler:

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-3-8-eighth-inch-x-7-inch-steel-detail-brush-40442.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-3-8-eighth-inch-x-7-inch-brass-detail-brush-40441.html

Plastic is the most durrable, Steel is in between, but gets in the cracks better than plastic. Brass gets in the finest cavities, but is the most prone to bending, so I use it last.

One tip is to brush the fig that comes out of the simple green before rinsing it. The sudsing action helps loosen the paint and makes it come off easier. Then I scrub it in water afterwards. Sometimes I'll dip the brush in simple green before I scrub it again.

Suds are your friend.

+1 actually. Then, if the paint is really being stubborn, I start scratching at it with some picks.

Eilif wrote:I use brass, steel and plastic wire and plastic detail brushes. They look like black handled heavy duty toothbrushes. They are 50 cents each at Harbor Freight.


http://www.harborfreight.com/1-3-8-eighth-inch-x-7-inch-steel-detail-brush-40442.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-3-8-eighth-inch-x-7-inch-brass-detail-brush-40441.html

Plastic is the most durrable, Steel is in between, but gets in the cracks better than plastic. Brass gets in the finest cavities, but is the most prone to bending, so I use it last.

One tip is to brush the fig that comes out of the simple green before rinsing it. The sudsing action helps loosen the paint and makes it come off easier. Then I scrub it in water afterwards. Sometimes I'll dip the brush in simple green before I scrub it again.

Suds are your friend.

Doesn't the steel or brass brush leave scratches on the figures. I have a set of those brushes but was afraid they would scratch up the figure. I bought a gun cleaning brush, looks like a toothbrush, but has two ends, a large end like the tooth brush, then a narrow end that has a shorter brush for getting into hard to reach spots. Only cost 2 bucks at a local hardware store.

Old electric toothbrush. Though I just bought an ultrasonic cleaner so I hope I won't need it anymore.

I've been using one of these for the past few months. The smaller, pointed brush on the top works wonders, especially when trying to clean out paint and/or primer on chest eagles and shoulder pauldrons:

Oooh, the denture brush looks great!

I wipe the soft gunk of with a cloth before scrubbing, brushes don't gunk up as quickly then.

DarkKnights44 wrote:[Doesn't the steel or brass brush leave scratches on the figures. I have a set of those brushes but was afraid they would scratch up the figure.

I haven't had noticed any significant scratching, modern pewter is pretty strong stuff. It's more likely to shine/polish the surface than to mar it. It would be a good idea to be a bit more carefull with old lead-alloy figures as they are much softer. If you did get notable scratching, you could polish it out with a dremmel.

I found these brushes at Target in the cleaning aisle for about 6 bucks. Have not tested them yet but the bristles are nice and stiff and the rubber pointed end looks like it can be handy for picking paint out of tight spots.