Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

I have a question: how do you hold your minis? Do you use blu-tac, milliput or what else?
And what do you use for temporary glueing part of your model? for example when you have to glue the left arm of a marine with a bolter without glueing the bolter for painting the chest eagle?

I use blue tac and bottle caps - - and if I think its something I wont be able to paint with the mini completed I'll paint it first then add the pieces to it.

it really depends on what your'e painting, Eg. 40mm, 25mm, 60mm ect. though i personally use a large empty tamia paintpot with a lump of blu-tack on the lid to stick a 25 or 40mm base on whilst painting.
as for temporary glueing, i pin everything, even when pinning is not needed, it just adds to the miniatures weight a little, or you could just glue the arms to the bolter, but not to the torso?

Typhon.

Normally i would paint the mini first then add his details like the weapons if they obstruct details afterwards and then paint them. For holding them i just pin them to a cork then paint away that way when there ready to go on there base theres no mucking about pinning them as well.

Blu-tac on a bottle cap. Probably the best painting tip I've ever discovered.

Blu-tac on a cork for a wine bottle. And you can use the cork for basing later, awesome.

While painting, I wear rubber gloves to hold my minis. Keeps me from getting fingerprints on my minis, and I varnish 2-3 times during the painting process, so I don't rub the paint off.

Poster tac on top of craft pain bottles. I have tons of colors I was given that I'll never, ever use, so they've been relegated to the role of "handle." The larger size and the paint inside gives them a bit more heft, which I find adds to the comfort while manipulating them and their stability when standing off to the side.

As for gluing, I don't ever really do it temporarily. If sections will be obscured by a part, I leave it off, initially. Aquilas, for example, get fully painted before the arms would go on, while the arms would be fully basecoated and perhaps receive their basic block highlights before assembly, but I leave final highlights until after assembly to ensure proper placement.

I blutac the base of the mini to a cork which is stuck to a bit of plasticard so its stable.

Id never really temporarily glue any parts but i might use blutac to try out a pose.

Blu-tac on top of the old style GW paint containers, its perfect.

Shadow Reaper wrote:Blu-tac on top of the old style GW paint containers, its perfect.

I wish id kept some of mine for that purpose

I'm new to painting and just hold it by its base. Might try the blue-tac and bottle cap method though.

Assemble then paint. Then you get to hold by the base.

If it's a place you can't get a brush into, it's a place nobody can see, and thus doesn't need to be painted.

Random pill bottle I found with blu-tac on one end. Light, yet stable.

Total: 0.00$

Foldback clip taped to a stick (dowel).

Figure tab goes into clip.
Dowel fits into hole in workbench (allows me to put it aside to dry) and gives me a handle to hold without touching the mini.

What do you do with metal models? I also use blue tac on most of my figs, but especially the Heavy Warjacks from Privateer Press are really heavy - the Thunderhead clocks in over 180 grams - no way that blue tac is enough for that kind of monster.

Cheers,


IK-Painter

My method works on metals quite well.
Plastics get a wine cork with temporary spray adhesive.

It fits either into the base (non-slot) or onto the base well enough and holds them secure enough so that I don't have to touch the model either.