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Made in us
Last Remaining Whole C'Tan






Pleasant Valley, Iowa

OK, I should probably preface this by saying these guys did not come out anywhere near as awesome as my previous Lychguard. I had a really hard time getting inspired, so wound up with the bog-standard color scheme. I think I got a nice tabletop standard though, and am pleased with them.

Group Shot:



OK, although I did 10 of them, I doubt anyone wants to see 10x 4-ups of very similar looking models (you can see them in the gallery if you so desire). So, here are some of the better ones.









My build process was: Army Painter Plate Mail Primer (which I dislike and will not use again), a drybrush of Chainmail to bring down the shine, a thin wash of Asurmen Blue, another drybrush of Chainmai to reduce the blue tint, and then 2 coats of gold, where there is gold. The hold was Shining Gold, washed with thinned Flesh Wash. The tips and ends of the rods were done with an airbrush, and then washed with Thraka Green. I tried filling in the recesses with bright green on an earlier test model and did not like how the effect came out for me; I think that requires more skillz than I have to pull off.

If I could do it over again, I'd simply have shelved them until I wasn't near-sick of Necrons, and have waited to be inspired. I also had a really hard time smoothing out the crease where the forso halves joined, which shows in some places. Finally, out of 40 pictures I took, a single one came out blurry (!) so I might redo the 4x image of that one. I'd also probably pick a color other than gold. I'm not that great at painting gold. I'm good at red. I should have gone with red.

That being said, I'm mostly pleased with the results.

If you'd like to see the build progress of these (and my other Newcrons) I have a work log going.

Thanks for looking!



This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2012/01/23 11:09:11


 
Made in us
Last Remaining Whole C'Tan






Pleasant Valley, Iowa

Swapped to a different one. I've got to re-take that picture.
Made in us
Last Remaining Whole C'Tan






Pleasant Valley, Iowa

Wolf_Ov_The_Void wrote:You are making me doubt about myself...when the preatorians were released i wanted to buy a box of em' but i resisted the temptation but now...i want these so bad >.<(i dont play crons)


If it's any consolation, the general consensus is that they are one of the worst units in the codex. I'm not a very good player anyway so it's sort of a moot point.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Thatguy91 wrote:Beautiful models. Big fan of your blog.


Thanks. This really makes me feel like I need to update it more

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/01/23 11:50:04


 
Made in us
Last Remaining Whole C'Tan






Pleasant Valley, Iowa

Kanluwen wrote: I'm almost not certain if that's a ROB tile or not. Is it Ouze?


It is indeed an ROBB. I'm planning to eventually make it into a Necron themed board, so the board color scheme matches the ash waste on their bases. Maybe some imperial ruins, I see it as tomb world that has awoken and has run off the Imperium.

I will eventually make it a showcase thread in and of itself, but for now, here's what I got:


This is a panorama composed of 3 images composited in Photoshop (which is why one end seems wider than the other).


Back side.


Some imperial terrain.


Long side down.


Skull pits. After painting them as normal, I filled them with clear resin tinted green. Maybe they'll count as difficult or dangerous terrain.


The other skull pit.



If you zoom in on the hills, you can sorta-kinda see that I covered a lot of the board in sand before priming it. In addition to matching the other bases aesthetically, many people posted that unless they flock their boards models slip on the slopes. This should prevent that quite nicely. My specific technique was to glue the sand with PVA, let it dry, and then I gave it several airbrushed coats of watered down PVA to strengthen it. It seems to hold on there pretty well. I don't move the board pretty much ever so that might have been overkill.



Kanluwen wrote: Try doing a mixture of Scorched Brown and Burnished Gold to establish a "basecoat" for shining gold. It seems to take hold much, much better that way--at least that's how it's worked on my Wight King so far.

In regards to filling in the recesses with the bright green, have you considered making a wash and then applying it to the weapons wholesale, then using like a Q-Tip or cotton ball to remove the excess? Could work quite nicely, I think.


For the gold, I'll give it a try on the next 5: I plan on doing 5 more praetorians with swords & pistols (I'm still coming up with swords I like, though). You had suggested in a different thread mithril washed with gryphonne sepia; I did try that and wasn't fond of the effect. I'll try the other technique next time. So far as making a light colored neon wash and rubbing it - no, I hadn't tried that. It's not too late though, as the recesses are pretty deep and they're all fairly accessible (and even if not, I have like 20 spares). I'll give it a try at some point and see how that works.

Kanluwen wrote: This is actually where liquid green stuff is becoming solid gold, in my opinion. Apply a light coat of it and it seems to cover up mistakes quite well.

I will definitely pick that up. I'm still using Testor's Contour Putty until this paycheck, and when I did some quick googling a while ago, one review called it the worst putty product on the hobby market. It's a pretty poor craftsman who blames his tools, but I do kinda wonder about this crapass putty. I'll try the liquid GS (as well as some Squadron stuff that had good reviews). Open to suggestions here, if anyone uses a different putty and loves it....
 
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