Switch Theme:

So, why prime when using an airbrush?  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in gb
Snivelling Workbot




Portsmouth, UK

And not just put a coat of the foundation colour directly on?

I've read quite a few threads where people say that you still need to prime the models first, even if you're airbrushing a layer on afterwards, but I've never read anyone say why.

I've just had a session with an airbrush, mostly models which were primed black, but I had one model that I recently stripped and not primed yet, so I sprayed it, to see the results and difference between the two.

It's a nice solid coat, it's not flaking, and it's visually identical to the primed ones. So, why prime?
   
Made in au
Anti-Armour Swiss Guard






Newcastle, OZ

Priming provides a layer that sticks to the model and provides a surface that paint WANTS to stick to (you can't rub a primer off the model with your finger when it's dry).

It'll make the paintjob stick better.

I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.

That is not dead which can eternal lie ...

... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
 
   
Made in us
Stealthy Warhound Titan Princeps






I don't prime when airbrushing.

I do my base coat, then a few layers of zenithal shading, then hit the whole thing with a layer of Satin Varnish. The point of priming a model is to make the basecoat layers stick, and to protect them. I find varnishing after doing the basecoating does the same thing, and I've had good results with it so far.
   
Made in si
Foxy Wildborne







I find primer is a must if you want paint to stick. Otherwise it rubs off on my fingers at the lightest handling.

It also provides an even base in case of hybrid models (metal and plastic, for example,) otherwise the difference in the base material can show through.

Of course, there's no need to use spray primer now that Vallejo makes those nice airbrush primers in several colours.

The old meta is dead and the new meta struggles to be born. Now is the time of munchkins. 
   
Made in us
Guard Heavy Weapon Crewman





Peoples Republic Of Kalifornia

I only use primer on metal and primer for the above reason having the color coats stay on the kit. When building plastic I shoot enamels thinned out with lacquer thinner. This is very tricky to use because you can melt your model but I like it because it "burns" the paint into the plastic. Doing my airbrushing this way makes sure the paint stays on the build.

Naval Aviation Ordnance,
Specialists in Urban Renewal,Landscaping and Population Control

Every time a deployed AO does his job, a Terrorist dies.  
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: