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Anyone try Army Painter Quickshade on unprimed models?  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
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Made in us
Zealot




I've used Army Painter colored primers and quickshade dip on a lot of models and love the results. For some boardgames that use plastic models I've also used it as a quick method to bring out the details on pieces that don't need to be showcases but look so much better with a little depth. Example: http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1076132/ascending-empires?size=large

Now I'm about to paint the pieces to the new version of Nexus Ops and I don't plan to do much details, I just want to bring out the depth by shading. I was hoping to skip the colored primer step since they are already molded in the correct team colors. I wasn't sure if the dip would stick properly to an unprimed model - anyone tried it?

I will wash them of course to remove any grease or release agents so I expect they will take the dip just fine, but I hate to test it out when the result will likely be permanent. I'd appreciate any thoughts or particularly if anyone has tried it and what the results were.
   
Made in us
Brigadier General






Chicago

I'm not sure about this, but it would proably work. I've dipped rebased vinyl clix figures (using minwax polyshades) without any priming or repainting and they came out fine.

The only concern is whether the dip will stick enough to the plastic. It probably will, but I'd just go ahead and dip the figures (I prefer the brush method) and watch the figures carefully. It won't take long to see if the dip is sticking or not. If after a minute or two the dip is just running off the figure, you can use mineral spirits and a brush to clear the quickshade off the figure and no harm done, though you may end up having to redo whatever colors you added to the model.

Based on the pic you linked to, as well as looking at the colorful Nexus figs, Dark Tone (or minwax Tudor) looks like the best shade to use.

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2012/02/09 16:08:35


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Made in ca
Homicidal Veteran Blood Angel Assault Marine




Toronto-Ont

You could always spary them first with a clear matt varnish...

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Made in us
Zealot




Very good ideas from both of you - thanks!

   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





I would definitely prime it white first to make sure it's even, but it should look pretty cool as a game mover.
   
Made in us
Water-Caste Negotiator





California

MillertimeRC wrote: I just want to bring out the depth by shading. I was hoping to skip the colored primer step since they are already molded in the correct team colors.

Rented Tritium wrote:I would definitely prime it white first to make sure it's even, but it should look pretty cool as a game mover.


... Then how do you know which Team they're on? ...

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Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Bounty wrote:
MillertimeRC wrote: I just want to bring out the depth by shading. I was hoping to skip the colored primer step since they are already molded in the correct team colors.

Rented Tritium wrote:I would definitely prime it white first to make sure it's even, but it should look pretty cool as a game mover.


... Then how do you know which Team they're on? ...


Different dips.
   
Made in us
Water-Caste Negotiator





California

Rented Tritium wrote:
Bounty wrote:
MillertimeRC wrote: I just want to bring out the depth by shading. I was hoping to skip the colored primer step since they are already molded in the correct team colors.
Rented Tritium wrote:I would definitely prime it white first to make sure it's even, but it should look pretty cool as a game mover.
Then how do you know which Team they're on? ...
Different dips.


So your suggestion to bring out detail on a precolored model is to base it white, create a color dip to match the color it was before it was white, dip it that color, then varnish it?

DS:70+S-G+M--B-I++Pw40k11#+D++A+/areWD-R+T(D)DM+
elchristoff wrote:Shoot the choppy things, chop the shooty things :-)


GENERATION 8: The first time you see this, copy and paste it into your sig and add 1 to the number after generation. Consider it a social experiment.  
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Bounty wrote:
Rented Tritium wrote:
Bounty wrote:
MillertimeRC wrote: I just want to bring out the depth by shading. I was hoping to skip the colored primer step since they are already molded in the correct team colors.
Rented Tritium wrote:I would definitely prime it white first to make sure it's even, but it should look pretty cool as a game mover.
Then how do you know which Team they're on? ...
Different dips.


So your suggestion to bring out detail on a precolored model is to base it white, create a color dip to match the color it was before it was white, dip it that color, then varnish it?


It doesn't have to match the color. You can make them any colors you like. It's your game.

But yes, I'd rather have white dipped in color than color dipped in brown.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/02/10 18:29:12


 
   
Made in us
Brigadier General






Chicago

Rented Tritium wrote:
Bounty wrote:
Rented Tritium wrote:
Bounty wrote:
MillertimeRC wrote: I just want to bring out the depth by shading. I was hoping to skip the colored primer step since they are already molded in the correct team colors.
Rented Tritium wrote:I would definitely prime it white first to make sure it's even, but it should look pretty cool as a game mover.
Then how do you know which Team they're on? ...
Different dips.


So your suggestion to bring out detail on a precolored model is to base it white, create a color dip to match the color it was before it was white, dip it that color, then varnish it?


It doesn't have to match the color. You can make them any colors you like. It's your game.

But yes, I'd rather have white dipped in color than color dipped in brown.


Having worked with dip alot, I have to say that this seems like an extremely bad idea.

Unless your mixing your own poly based dips using future floor polish, your dip colors are pretty much limited to shades of brown and Black (tudor). It's going to be hard to tell the models apart on a game board if you just put different dips over white paint.

If you don't want a brown tone to the dipped figure you're much better off dipping the figure (a matte finish first might provide a bit more tooth) in a tudor or (dark tone). You get the advantage of the original color with a nice black wash and shade effect.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/02/11 00:47:02


Chicago Skirmish Wargames club. Join us for some friendly, casual gaming in the Windy City.
http://chicagoskirmishwargames.com/blog/


My Project Log, mostly revolving around custom "Toybashed" terrain.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/651712.page

Visit the Chicago Valley Railroad!
https://chicagovalleyrailroad.blogspot.com 
   
 
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