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Made in ca
Longtime Dakkanaut





Soooo... I've run through a large amount of epoxy while putting together my WFB armies. I use it for two things; firstly, I make magnetized movement trays by epoxying pieces of sheet metal into homemade plasticard movement trays. Secondly, I use it to affix rare earth magnets to the bottoms of the models that will later inhabit those trays.

Recently I've noticed that at least one batch of models have had their magnets pop out of the epoxy bonds. Most likely it's due to user error, since the epoxy residue in these cases is slightly rubbery to the touch, which makes me think that I mixed the batch up in an incorrect ratio. However, since I'm looking for these bonds to be as durable and permanent as possible (especially since the models are frequently stored in their trays, meaning the magnets are subjected to a constant attraction pulling them down from their bases) I'm considering switching brands of epoxy, or looking for another superior adhesive.

Up until now I've been using LePage Speed-set epoxy mostly because I can pick it up at any hardware store I happen to be in. However, I've heard good things about the superglues and other adhesives you can buy in specialized hobby shops, particularly the ones from Bob Smith Industries. They have multiple types of epoxy as well as thick cyanoacrylates, and I'm curious if these would actually perform significantly better than the stuff I'm currently using.

The last thing I want is to switch to a more expensive product that doesn't perform as well, so I'm wondering if any of you out there have opinions on the superiority of these products.

Also, if I do go with the BSI stuff, should I stick to an epoxy, or try out the thick superglue? The reason I originally went with epoxy for the magnets is that they could be set into a blob of it in a way that makes the overflow of adhesive squeeze up and around the edges of each magnet, which would seem to give more surface area for the bond and consequently a stronger join. GW superglue couldn't do this, since it's too runny and seems to shrink a little bit, but the thick superglue from BSI seems like it might be the best of both worlds.

Any input would be appreciated.
   
Made in us
Homicidal Veteran Blood Angel Assault Marine





Dayton OH

Epoxy is great for filling gaps and making high strength joints where parts don't quite fit together. Good for pinning things. I don't use it that much because I ran into exactly the problem you're having, with smooth surfaces it just doesn't stick well. Liquid Nails construction adhesive is one avenue you could try, but the stuff I've used came in tubes for caulking guns so it wouldn't be very practical for small scale hobby use. If it comes in a more practical container that stuff works GOOD.
I use Zap-A-Gap cyanoacrylate glue. It's a "super glue" intended for hobby modelling, and in the US it's available at virtually any gaming store, including The Warstore online. Still, my magnets sometimes pop out of the glue and need to be stuck back on.
Try using sand paper to rough up the outer surfaces of the magnet and use super glue accelerator to layer glue over your joint. Glue the magnet and spray with accelerator, Bam it's hard. Add another drop of glue and spray it again. You can build up that joint around the base of your magnets this way.

For the Emperor! Kill Maim Burn!... I mean purge the unclean!  
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Pa, USA

Go over to your local pharmacy, grab a metal nail file for the ~50 cents it'll cost you, and you're golden.

Just scratch up the side of the magnet that's in contact with the epoxy, and it'll have a better hold on it.

As Brotherjulian also says, I don't use epoxy. For stuff that I need glued, I use Loctite Superglue (cyanoacrylate) and for stuff that I need a really good hold on, I use Gorilla Glue:
(usually available at local hardware store)
Just take caution. The stuff expands a bit, so be prepared for this if you use it directly on your models.

I use standard Gorilla Glue (1st or 2nd on page) but they do also offer super-glue and an epoxy that comes in syringe form (3rd and 9th on the page, respectively).

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/02/19 15:28:04


Why is it that only those who have never fought in a battle are so eager to be in one? 
   
Made in us
Boosting Black Templar Biker





Couple of things to take note of: the faster the setting time n the epoxy the weaker the strength. So maybe you'll want to try an epoxy with a longer drying time. Also , CA accelerators also weaken the strength of the glue.

One idea is to use a bit of epoxy putty and CA glue together. I usually take a small bit of greenstuff and glue it with a drop of superglue to the model, then put a drop of glue on the magnet then press it into the greenstuff. Creates a fast strong bond.

 
   
Made in ca
Longtime Dakkanaut





Interesting stuff.

I actually glued my first batch of magnets in with superglue, and none of them have popped out (but neither have the 250+ that I used properly mixed epoxy on).

I've also taken to filling the bottoms of the bases up with Liquid Plastic after the magnets have been affixed, with the hopefulness that it will add a bit of supplementary strength as well as making the whole thing easy to superglue back into place (with a lot of extra surface area) if the whole block should happen to pop out.

If you guys are generally of the opinion that cyanoacrylates provide the better bond with smooth surfaces, do you see any downside to using the thick superglue that BSI sells?

The specific product I was looking at is:

MAXI-CURE™ extra thick CA is the best CA for most plastics, including GE’s Lexan MAXI-CURE™ is the best choice for plastic model assembly. When used with INSTA-SET™, it works better than any putty for modifying or filling voids. It can be carved with a knife or razor blade and sanded and feathered to form a finish indistinguishable from plastic.

MAXI-CURE™ bonds fiberglass, hardwood, metal and rubber better than any other hobby adhesive. For gluing to the inside, clothtextured surface of fiberglass, scrape the area to be bonded with a razor blade or coarse sandpaper before using MAXI-CURE™ or any other adhesive. It also is best for bonding the tires for R/C cars.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/02/19 15:53:48


 
   
Made in us
Druid Warder





central florida

well with epoxy you have to make sure it cures correctly it is very temperamental to humidity, if your house has a lot of it. Place a small lamp in the area of the model to help dry the air out around the figure.. i use epoxy all the time, and this is what i do since i live in florida..

DA:70S+G-M+B++I++++Pwmhd06#+D++A++/hWD199R++T(M)DM+

Big Guns Tutorial

Skarpteef's How to's on Orkiness 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Pa, USA

The thicker, gel type Cyanoacrylate typically has a higher resistance to shock. Even though it is stronger, any agent added to quicken the cure time will still weaken the bond, so keep that in mind.

Yep, lovin' me some http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/sg_ug_cntrl/overview/Loctite-Super-Glue-ULTRA-Gel-Control.htm

Why is it that only those who have never fought in a battle are so eager to be in one? 
   
 
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