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Like I posted on the Youtube vid - you really need to make sure the models you are using for tutorial purposes are nicely prepped beforehand. That Trayzn was rife with mold lines and it ruined the whole tutorial for me tbh.
JaxnFury wrote:Like I posted on the Youtube vid - you really need to make sure the models you are using for tutorial purposes are nicely prepped beforehand. That Trayzn was rife with mold lines and it ruined the whole tutorial for me tbh.
Necrons always are.
Don't think I have 1 model that doesn't have mold lines on it. It's a major PITA for the warriors especially.
JaxnFury wrote:Like I posted on the Youtube vid - you really need to make sure the models you are using for tutorial purposes are nicely prepped beforehand. That Trayzn was rife with mold lines and it ruined the whole tutorial for me tbh.
Necrons always are.
Don't think I have 1 model that doesn't have mold lines on it. It's a major PITA for the warriors especially.
Mold lines are always there on any minature when 2 part casted. They can vary greatly in severity though. As I said, 10-15mins beforehand scraping them off would have given the video a more professional edge.
Also appologies if I'm coming across as an a-hole, just trying to give constructive critisism. Keep up the good work of making these tutorials!
No Problem. Thanks for the feedback. I do know what you mean. As previously mentioned, these models are particularly bad for hard to remove mold lines. However, I do completely understand your point about taking a little extra time to remove as many mold lines as possible. Personally, my biggest challenge is re-bending the finecast staff for these models. For my next tutorial (a Necron Lord), I was relatively successful in straightening the staff and I did attempt to remove as many mold lines as possible.
Not sure if I am stating the obvious or not here but fixing wonky Finecast models in quite simple;
1. Put some freshly boiled water in a mug (I use a travel Thermos mug).
2. Either completely submerge or dip the offending piece in the boiling water for around 15-30 seconds (depending on thickness) this will soften it up but WILL NOT ruin any detail.
3. Pull it out gently and safely using tweezers etc.
4. You have a few seconds to repose/straighten the piece before it starts to cool and set. The quicker you do what you want the better.
It works incredibly well and is such a quick and simple fix. I have personally used this method on my Finecast Venomthropes tentacle arms to repose them and have not damaged them at all in doing this.
Practice on some of the Finecast sprue bits if you have any left over and you will see how easy it is. It can also be repeated if you are not happy with the previous results.